subject:(surf zone sand bars)

Universiteit Utrecht

1. Chasapis Tassinis, K. Long-term evolution of surf zone sand bars:the effect of the surface rollers.

Degree: 2016, Universiteit Utrecht

URL: http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/325666

Subjects/Keywords: coastal morphology; morphodynamic model; beach dynamics; surf zone sand bars; surface rollers; crescentic bars; sediment transport

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APA (6^th Edition):

Chasapis Tassinis, K. (2016). Long-term evolution of surf zone sand bars:the effect of the surface rollers. (Masters Thesis). Universiteit Utrecht. Retrieved from http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/325666

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Chasapis Tassinis, K. “Long-term evolution of surf zone sand bars:the effect of the surface rollers.” 2016. Masters Thesis, Universiteit Utrecht. Accessed January 19, 2021. http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/325666.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Chasapis Tassinis, K. “Long-term evolution of surf zone sand bars:the effect of the surface rollers.” 2016. Web. 19 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Chasapis Tassinis K. Long-term evolution of surf zone sand bars:the effect of the surface rollers. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Universiteit Utrecht; 2016. [cited 2021 Jan 19]. Available from: http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/325666.

Council of Science Editors:

Chasapis Tassinis K. Long-term evolution of surf zone sand bars:the effect of the surface rollers. [Masters Thesis]. Universiteit Utrecht; 2016. Available from: http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/325666

Oregon State University

2. Catalan Mondaca, Patricio A. Microwave scattering from surf zone waves.

Degree: PhD, Civil Engineering, 2008, Oregon State University

URL: http://hdl.handle.net/1957/9947

► Wave breaking in the surf zone is an important forcing mechanism on the generation of nearshore currents and in the driving of sediment transport. At… (more)

▼ Wave breaking in the surf zone is an important forcing mechanism on the generation of nearshore currents and in the driving of sediment transport. At the same time, wave breaking can have significant spatial and temporal variability that needs to be accounted for in the description of nearshore processes. Remote sensors are best suited to collect wave breaking measurements due to their large footprint and synoptic capabilities, but in order to extract quantitative wave parameters a proper understanding of the imaging mechanisms is essential. Microwave sensors have been shown to be able to measure wave parameters in deep water, but in the surf zone many of the assumptions the algorithms are based upon do not hold. Additionally, the dynamics of breaking waves are different and may affect in a yet determined way the signal. This dissertation first intends to address an observational gap regarding surf zone microwave measurements. A novel combination of synchronous, large coverage marine radar, calibrated pulsed Doppler radar and video observations from a field site enable the analysis of the evolution and characteristics of the wave signature. The combined data sets yield superior discrimination rates between breaking and non-breaking waves. Discrimination also allows the study of the microwave scattering by source, where active breaking is separated from remnant foam and steepening waves. Results show that the backscattered power from breaking waves, specifically from the wave roller, is a several dB larger than that of foam and steepening waves and independent of the environmental conditions and polarization state. While similar results have been obtained for deep water waves and variety of scattering models have been proposed, it is found that none of the models can describe all the data. Additionally, most of the models neglect the roller morphology. Therefore, in the last section a scattering model is introduced, in which the roller is treated as a volume where a collection of water droplets embedded in air can scatter incoherently. Multiple interactions of the scattered fields between particles and the boundaries are also accounted for. Though the model formulation is complex, it depends on a few physical parameters (diameter, volume fraction, medium permittivity) and no calibration constants. Comparison against data shows that the model does a reasonable job in predicting the observed scattering levels, polarization response and grazing angle dependencies, although is not capable to reproduce the maximum scattered levels observed and predicts polarization ratios always less than unity. Advisors/Committee Members: Haller, Merrick (advisor), Holman, Robert (committee member).

Subjects/Keywords: Surf zone; Water waves – Remote sensing

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APA (6^th Edition):

Catalan Mondaca, P. A. (2008). Microwave scattering from surf zone waves. (Doctoral Dissertation). Oregon State University. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/1957/9947

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Catalan Mondaca, Patricio A. “Microwave scattering from surf zone waves.” 2008. Doctoral Dissertation, Oregon State University. Accessed January 19, 2021. http://hdl.handle.net/1957/9947.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Catalan Mondaca, Patricio A. “Microwave scattering from surf zone waves.” 2008. Web. 19 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Catalan Mondaca PA. Microwave scattering from surf zone waves. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. Oregon State University; 2008. [cited 2021 Jan 19]. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1957/9947.

Council of Science Editors:

Catalan Mondaca PA. Microwave scattering from surf zone waves. [Doctoral Dissertation]. Oregon State University; 2008. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1957/9947

3. Prasannakumar, S. Studies on sediment transport in the surf zone along certain beaches of Kerala.

Degree: Marine Science;, 1987, Cochin University of Science and Technology

URL: http://dyuthi.cusat.ac.in/purl/1189

Subjects/Keywords: Backwater; Surf zone

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APA (6^th Edition):

Prasannakumar, S. (1987). Studies on sediment transport in the surf zone along certain beaches of Kerala. (Thesis). Cochin University of Science and Technology. Retrieved from http://dyuthi.cusat.ac.in/purl/1189

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Prasannakumar, S. “Studies on sediment transport in the surf zone along certain beaches of Kerala.” 1987. Thesis, Cochin University of Science and Technology. Accessed January 19, 2021. http://dyuthi.cusat.ac.in/purl/1189.

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Prasannakumar, S. “Studies on sediment transport in the surf zone along certain beaches of Kerala.” 1987. Web. 19 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Prasannakumar S. Studies on sediment transport in the surf zone along certain beaches of Kerala. [Internet] [Thesis]. Cochin University of Science and Technology; 1987. [cited 2021 Jan 19]. Available from: http://dyuthi.cusat.ac.in/purl/1189.

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Council of Science Editors:

Prasannakumar S. Studies on sediment transport in the surf zone along certain beaches of Kerala. [Thesis]. Cochin University of Science and Technology; 1987. Available from: http://dyuthi.cusat.ac.in/purl/1189

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

University of Newcastle

4. Stringari, Caio E. Data-driven investigations of broken wave behaviour in the surf and swash zones.

Degree: PhD, 2020, University of Newcastle

URL: http://hdl.handle.net/1959.13/1411217

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Research Doctorate - Doctor of Philosophy (PhD)

This thesis investigates waves on sandy, wave-dominated, beaches using data-driven approaches. Although waves - particularly broken waves -… (more)

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Research Doctorate - Doctor of Philosophy (PhD)

This thesis investigates waves on sandy, wave-dominated, beaches using data-driven approaches. Although waves - particularly broken waves - are the main driver for sediment dynamics in the nearshore, little research has been dedicated to track and study individual waves. By applying machine learning techniques to collocated remotely sensed and in-situ data, this thesis answered questions regarding the fraction of broken waves (Q_b) in the surf zone, assessed the probability of a broken wave being captured by another broken wave (p(c)), and showed how changes in offshore conditions correlated to changes in swash zone motions. Q_b was shown to be highly variable inter- and intra-beach and was directly correlated to nearshore parameters. Tides drove variations in Q_b of up to 70% for a given water depth and increases in infragravity wave energy correlated with lower Q_b values at the surf-swash boundary. Bore-bore captures were found to be common in the surf and swash zones (p(c)≈40%) and a direct correlation between increasing infragravity wave energy at the shoreline and increases in the rate of occurrence of bore-bore capture events was observed. The observed bore-bore capture events did not drive extreme (horizontal)shoreline maxima events frequently (≈20%), but most of the observed extreme events (≥95%) were directly driven by bore-bore captures. Offshore conditions correlated to changes in the probability distribution function (PDF) of shoreline height timeseries on a gently sloping beach. Variations in offshore wave height and period correlated to variations in shape and modality of shoreline height PDF. Similar results showed that trough-to-peak swash height PDFs, both in the incident and infragravity frequency bands, were multimodal and correlated to changes in offshore and surf zone conditions. Results obtained here showed that purely theoretical approaches to nearshore phenomena unsatisfactorily predicted the observed data. Theoretical Q_b models showed errors of 40%, and no currently available theoretical approach could precisely describe the observed swash zone motion PDFs. The data-driven models developed here, on the contrary, showed high skill when predicting the observed data. These results demonstrate that the novel approaches developed in this thesis have potential to be further developed into coastal management tools.

Advisors/Committee Members: University of Newcastle. Faculty of Science, School of Environmental and Life Sciences.

Subjects/Keywords: surf zone; swash zone; broken waves; machine learning; thesis by publication

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APA (6^th Edition):

Stringari, C. E. (2020). Data-driven investigations of broken wave behaviour in the surf and swash zones. (Doctoral Dissertation). University of Newcastle. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/1959.13/1411217

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Stringari, Caio E. “Data-driven investigations of broken wave behaviour in the surf and swash zones.” 2020. Doctoral Dissertation, University of Newcastle. Accessed January 19, 2021. http://hdl.handle.net/1959.13/1411217.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Stringari, Caio E. “Data-driven investigations of broken wave behaviour in the surf and swash zones.” 2020. Web. 19 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Stringari CE. Data-driven investigations of broken wave behaviour in the surf and swash zones. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. University of Newcastle; 2020. [cited 2021 Jan 19]. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1959.13/1411217.

Council of Science Editors:

Stringari CE. Data-driven investigations of broken wave behaviour in the surf and swash zones. [Doctoral Dissertation]. University of Newcastle; 2020. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1959.13/1411217

University of Texas – Austin

5. Ramirez, Michael Towler. Suspension of bed material over lateral sand bars in the Lower Mississippi River, Southeastern Louisiana.

Degree: MSin Geological Sciences, Geological Sciences, 2011, University of Texas – Austin

URL: http://hdl.handle.net/2152/ETD-UT-2011-12-4710

► Understanding specific pathways for sand transport in the lower reaches of large rivers, particularly the Mississippi, is the key to addressing multiple significant geologic problems… (more)

▼ Understanding specific pathways for sand transport in the lower reaches of large rivers, particularly the Mississippi, is the key to addressing multiple significant geologic problems and for environmental restoration efforts. Field studies were performed in the Mississippi River 75-100 km upstream of the Gulf of Mexico outlet in April 2010 (water discharge: 23,000 m³ s⁻¹), May 2010 (18,500-20,500 m³ s⁻¹), and March 2011 (27,000 m³ s⁻¹) to examine sediment transport phenomena in the river channel. Methods comprised multibeam sonar bathymetric surveys, acoustic Doppler current profiler measurements of current velocity and acoustic backscatter, point-integrated isokinetic suspended sediment sampling, and channel-bed grab sampling. Channel morphology surveys revealed a 30-60 m deep thalweg, alternating between banks every 2-3 km, opposite bedform-covered lateral sand bars. Dune sizes nearest the thalweg ranged from 7 m wavelength and 0.3 m height to over 100 m wavelength and 2.3 m height as a function of water discharge, with decreasing dune sizes towards shallow water. Material comprising the dunes was well-sorted, 125-500 [mu]m sand. Bedload transport rates increased exponentially with water discharge in April 2010 and March 2011 comparable to previous studies in this reach, though rates in May 2011 were well below predicted values for a site (Myrtle Grove) immediately downriver of a sand-mining project. Average water velocities ranged from 1.3 m s⁻¹ in May 2010 to 2 m s⁻¹ in March 2011. Skin-friction shear stress increased with water discharge, but varied over an order of magnitude at all measured discharges. Suspended sand concentration and grain size increased with proximity to the bed during all study periods, and was most pronounced in March 2011. Suspended sand concentrations were greatest over the center of lateral bars, and lowest in the thalweg, indicating that sand transport downstream occurs primarily over lateral sand bars where there is a combination of high shear stress and available bed material. Total bed-material discharge increased exponentially with water discharge. Bedform-induced turbulence may be responsible for the bed material suspension. These results are relevant to coastal restoration efforts by river diversion which seek to distribute sand from the upper water column to deltaic interdistributary wetlands. Advisors/Committee Members: Allison, Mead A. (Mead Ashton) (advisor), Kim, Wonsuck (committee member), Mohrig, David (committee member).

Subjects/Keywords: Mississippi River; Louisiana; Sediment; Sand; Mud; Fluvial; River; Sediment transport; Turbulence; Lateral sand bars

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APA (6^th Edition):

Ramirez, M. T. (2011). Suspension of bed material over lateral sand bars in the Lower Mississippi River, Southeastern Louisiana. (Masters Thesis). University of Texas – Austin. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/2152/ETD-UT-2011-12-4710

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Ramirez, Michael Towler. “Suspension of bed material over lateral sand bars in the Lower Mississippi River, Southeastern Louisiana.” 2011. Masters Thesis, University of Texas – Austin. Accessed January 19, 2021. http://hdl.handle.net/2152/ETD-UT-2011-12-4710.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Ramirez, Michael Towler. “Suspension of bed material over lateral sand bars in the Lower Mississippi River, Southeastern Louisiana.” 2011. Web. 19 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Ramirez MT. Suspension of bed material over lateral sand bars in the Lower Mississippi River, Southeastern Louisiana. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. University of Texas – Austin; 2011. [cited 2021 Jan 19]. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/2152/ETD-UT-2011-12-4710.

Council of Science Editors:

Ramirez MT. Suspension of bed material over lateral sand bars in the Lower Mississippi River, Southeastern Louisiana. [Masters Thesis]. University of Texas – Austin; 2011. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/2152/ETD-UT-2011-12-4710

NSYSU

6. Wu, Jian-Yi. Noise Signatures Analysis of Nearshore Breaking Wave.

Degree: Master, IAMPUT, 2010, NSYSU

URL: http://etd.lib.nsysu.edu.tw/ETD-db/ETD-search/view_etd?URN=etd-0823110-183618

► ãThe ocean ambient noise of coast is mainly influenced by sea waves, boats or ships, or humanâs coast activities. Among them, most of the ambient… (more)

▼ ãThe ocean ambient noise of coast is mainly influenced by sea waves, boats or ships, or humanâs coast activities. Among them, most of the ambient noise is from the breaking wave noise caused by wind, and its frequency range is quite wide (0.5~50 kHz). The breaking wave noise mechanism of surf zone is very complex, and has a variety of signal features. In this research, the location is at the Sizih Bay near Kaohsiung Harbor. Hydrophone was used to collect the noise and the wave motion process of surf zone was recorded simultaneously with a digital video camera. It was shown from the experiment results, as the wave evolved in the surf zone, it would eventually become unstable and collapsed, so a large amount of air would be trapped in water and forming bubble clouds. The oscillating bubble cloud from breaking wave would generate high frequency sound. The results also indicated that when breaking wave reached the location hydrophone, a wide band pulse sound was generated with a level as high as 120 dB. In the analysis of each frequency (1k, 2k, 3k, 4k, 5k Hz), due to the oscillating effects air bubbles after breaking wave, the noise level at 2~5k Hz were higher as compared to that without breaking wave passing the hydrophone. The last result was also validated by the time integral of the noise energy through out the wave evolution. In addition to the process of breaking waves and residual air bubbles under breaking waves contributing to the breaking wave source, for example discussed in the study breaking waveâs period and breaking wave height, the results from these two studies found, when the longer the breaking wave period , the breaking wave SPL will be bigger with the longer the breaking wave period. And in the breaking wave height, when the breaking wave height much higher, breaking wave SPL will be much bigger too. And learned from these two conclusions , breaking wave periods and height will make the breaking waves source level caused by changes. Advisors/Committee Members: Ruey-Chang Wei (committee member), Hiang-Zhi Zhan (chair), Hu-Guang Yang (chair).

Subjects/Keywords: ambient noise; breaking wave heights; surf zone; breaking wave periods

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APA (6^th Edition):

Wu, J. (2010). Noise Signatures Analysis of Nearshore Breaking Wave. (Thesis). NSYSU. Retrieved from http://etd.lib.nsysu.edu.tw/ETD-db/ETD-search/view_etd?URN=etd-0823110-183618

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Wu, Jian-Yi. “Noise Signatures Analysis of Nearshore Breaking Wave.” 2010. Thesis, NSYSU. Accessed January 19, 2021. http://etd.lib.nsysu.edu.tw/ETD-db/ETD-search/view_etd?URN=etd-0823110-183618.

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Wu, Jian-Yi. “Noise Signatures Analysis of Nearshore Breaking Wave.” 2010. Web. 19 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Wu J. Noise Signatures Analysis of Nearshore Breaking Wave. [Internet] [Thesis]. NSYSU; 2010. [cited 2021 Jan 19]. Available from: http://etd.lib.nsysu.edu.tw/ETD-db/ETD-search/view_etd?URN=etd-0823110-183618.

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Council of Science Editors:

Wu J. Noise Signatures Analysis of Nearshore Breaking Wave. [Thesis]. NSYSU; 2010. Available from: http://etd.lib.nsysu.edu.tw/ETD-db/ETD-search/view_etd?URN=etd-0823110-183618

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Delft University of Technology

7. Vink, A.S. (author). Transformation of wave spectra across the surf zone.

Degree: 2001, Delft University of Technology

URL: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:2722f77f-4b7c-438a-b91a-a9b1c1434714

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One of the most applied models for wave prediction is the spectral wave model SWAN. SWAN is not always capable of predicting wave conditions in… (more)

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One of the most applied models for wave prediction is the spectral wave model SWAN. SWAN is not always capable of predicting wave conditions in the surf zone with sufficient accuracy. In this study the transformation of wave spectra across the surf zone and its spectral modelling was investigated. The objective of this thesis work was to improve the prediction of wave spectra and their integral parameters in the surf zone. Focus was on the improvement of the dissipation term for depth-induced wave breaking for the use in SWAN. A literature study was carried out to make an inventory of previous work on wave breaking and its spectral modelling.In order to select the most promising alterations wave data was analysed and simulated with SWAN 40.11. It appeared that SWAN consistently underestimated the significant wave height in the surf zone. Three different adaptations to the present source term for wave breaking in SWAN were proposed, implemented and tested. Firstly, the Rayleigh distribution for both breaking and non-breaking waves was implemented. Secondly, the breaker parameter r was adapted. The third adaptation concerned the distribution of energy dissipation over the frequencies. It was concluded that the prediction of the cross-shore variation of the significant wave height can be considerably improved with the implantation of the breaker parameter depending on the local wave steepness. Applying a full Rayleigh distribution improves the accuracy in the prediction of the fraction of breaking waves and the significant wave heights on a steep slope. Moreover it was concluded that the distribution of energy dissipation is frequency dependent and that distributing energy dissipation proportional to the energy density at each frequency is a wrong assumption. Dissipation of energy is higher at higher frequencies. Adding a frequency-dependency to the source term for wave breaking had an effect on predicted mean wave periods and spectral energy density levels although no unique optimal formulation could be found for this frequency dependency. Furthermore it was concluded that the effect of triad interactions is not correctly represented in SWAN. The implementation of both the Rayleigh model and the formulation for the breakerparameter depending on the local wave steepness as an optional command in SWAN is recommended. The effect of wave breaking on the spectral distribution of energy is still poorly understood. Investigation of the spectral energy balance of breaking waves in the surf zone might give more insight in the spectral representation of wave breaking. Besides wave breaking, non-linear triad interactions are very important regarding the transformation of wave spectra across the surf zone. In this study triad-interactions are almost not considered. When triad interactions are better approximated in SWAN the representation of wave breaking in SWAN can be assessed better. Further investigation of the spectral modelling of triad interactions is recommended.

Hydraulic Engineering

Civil Engineering and…

Subjects/Keywords: SWAN; surf zone; energy dissipation

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APA (6^th Edition):

Vink, A. S. (. (2001). Transformation of wave spectra across the surf zone. (Masters Thesis). Delft University of Technology. Retrieved from http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:2722f77f-4b7c-438a-b91a-a9b1c1434714

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Vink, A S (author). “Transformation of wave spectra across the surf zone.” 2001. Masters Thesis, Delft University of Technology. Accessed January 19, 2021. http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:2722f77f-4b7c-438a-b91a-a9b1c1434714.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Vink, A S (author). “Transformation of wave spectra across the surf zone.” 2001. Web. 19 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Vink AS(. Transformation of wave spectra across the surf zone. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2001. [cited 2021 Jan 19]. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:2722f77f-4b7c-438a-b91a-a9b1c1434714.

Council of Science Editors:

Vink AS(. Transformation of wave spectra across the surf zone. [Masters Thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2001. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:2722f77f-4b7c-438a-b91a-a9b1c1434714

University of New South Wales

8. McCarroll, Robert. Field observations of embayed beaches: Lagrangian circulation, morphodynamics and the rip current hazard.

Degree: Biological, Earth & Environmental Sciences, 2014, University of New South Wales

URL: http://handle.unsw.edu.au/1959.4/53937 ; https://unsworks.unsw.edu.au/fapi/datastream/unsworks:12647/SOURCE02?view=true

► Embayed beaches differ from open coast beaches due to the control exerted by headlands, leading to alongshore gradients in wave height, surfzone width and beach… (more)

▼ Embayed beaches differ from open coast beaches due to the control exerted by headlands, leading to alongshore gradients in wave height, surfzone width and beach state. Circulation and morphodynamic behaviour of embayed beaches are poorly understood. This study involves observations at three embayed beaches around Sydney, Australia. Methods involve Lagrangian observations of currents and bathymetric surveys.At Whale Beach (600 m long), Lagrangian observations of an entire embayment, including headland rip currents, are presented. Headland geometry and wave direction were found to influence rip current trajectories, and degree of bathymetric non-uniformity correlated with current velocities. Surfzone exit rates increased along the beach from the protected headland to the exposed end.At Bondi Beach (850 m long), observations of morphodynamic response to storm-groups over a three week period are presented. Offshore significant wave heights reached 5.6 m, with a 10-day average >3 m. A mega-rip developed at the exposed headland, while the protected end maintained a low-tide-terrace. Alongshore non-uniformity was found to decrease near the shoreline, and increase in the outer-surfzone and nearshore.At Shelly Beach (2.3 km long), the rip current hazard was investigated, testing the efficacy of 'float' and 'swim parallel' strategies. Human subjects entered three rip channels with Lagrangian measurements of background flow. Swimming parallel was found to be a shorter duration strategy, with lower failure rate. However both strategies failed in some instances and neither can be recommended as a sole preference.Finally, all data are analysed to investigate the degree of bathymetric control on very low frequency (~10 min) current variability due to surfzone eddies. A classification scheme is introduced ranging from: (i) strong bathymetric control where currents exhibit high mean velocities, with velocity pulsation or rip cell oscillations, to (ii) no bathymetric control where randomly directed surfzone eddies occur on planar bars. This study broadens understanding of several aspects of embayed beach dynamics. In particular, it demonstrates that alongshore wave-height and beach state gradients on embayed beaches will force alongshore changes in: (i) current velocities, trajectories and variability; (ii) cross-shore exchange; (iii) morphodynamic response to storms; and (iv) the level of hazard to bathers. Advisors/Committee Members: Brander, Robert, Biological, Earth & Environmental Sciences, Faculty of Science, UNSW, Turner, Ian, Water Research Laboratory, Faculty of Engineering, UNSW.

Subjects/Keywords: Beach safety; Coastal processes; Surf zone dynamics; Intermediate beaches

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APA (6^th Edition):

McCarroll, R. (2014). Field observations of embayed beaches: Lagrangian circulation, morphodynamics and the rip current hazard. (Doctoral Dissertation). University of New South Wales. Retrieved from http://handle.unsw.edu.au/1959.4/53937 ; https://unsworks.unsw.edu.au/fapi/datastream/unsworks:12647/SOURCE02?view=true

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

McCarroll, Robert. “Field observations of embayed beaches: Lagrangian circulation, morphodynamics and the rip current hazard.” 2014. Doctoral Dissertation, University of New South Wales. Accessed January 19, 2021. http://handle.unsw.edu.au/1959.4/53937 ; https://unsworks.unsw.edu.au/fapi/datastream/unsworks:12647/SOURCE02?view=true.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

McCarroll, Robert. “Field observations of embayed beaches: Lagrangian circulation, morphodynamics and the rip current hazard.” 2014. Web. 19 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

McCarroll R. Field observations of embayed beaches: Lagrangian circulation, morphodynamics and the rip current hazard. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. University of New South Wales; 2014. [cited 2021 Jan 19]. Available from: http://handle.unsw.edu.au/1959.4/53937 ; https://unsworks.unsw.edu.au/fapi/datastream/unsworks:12647/SOURCE02?view=true.

Council of Science Editors:

McCarroll R. Field observations of embayed beaches: Lagrangian circulation, morphodynamics and the rip current hazard. [Doctoral Dissertation]. University of New South Wales; 2014. Available from: http://handle.unsw.edu.au/1959.4/53937 ; https://unsworks.unsw.edu.au/fapi/datastream/unsworks:12647/SOURCE02?view=true

Massey University

9. Hesp, Patrick A. Studies on coastal and desert dunes, and coastal systems : a thesis submitted for the degree of Doctor of Science of Massey University .

Degree: 2013, Massey University

URL: http://hdl.handle.net/10179/14231

► The research achievements of the author, relating to the study of coastal dunes, desert dunes and coastal ecosystems in various coasts and deserts of the… (more)

▼ The research achievements of the author, relating to the study of coastal dunes, desert dunes and coastal ecosystems in various coasts and deserts of the world are described. These studies began during a period when the morphodynamics approach was in its infancy, and when the "Australian school" of coastal research was just beginning. In this thesis, the research achievements of the author, and the publications, are detailed in the Preface. The thesis comprises 80 selected publications in refereed journals and books. The author's curriculum vitae follows in Appendix 1, and a brief career history is provided in Appendix 2. These selected publications extend over a period from 1981 to May, 2013, during a time when the author held 11 positions and visiting fellowships in several countries. Significant achievements include (i) the first wind tunnel and field study of flow around an isolated plant and the formation of shadow dunes, (ii) studies on the initiation and evolution of incipient foredune types, (iii) a ecogeomorphological classification of foredunes and analyses of their internal sedimentary structures, (iv) contributions to the understanding and classification of beach ridges, (v) studies of the flow dynamics in bowl and trough blowouts, (vi) studies on transgressive dunefield and dune sheet initiation, geomorphology and evolution, (vii) surfzone-beach-dune interactions and model; (viii) flow dynamics over foredunes, (xi) furthering our understanding of barchan morphometrics and flow, and (x) climbing dunes forming via the operation ofreversing offshore winds. Discoveries include the following: (i) the relation between shadow dune morphometrics and plant morrhology; (iii) surfzone-beach-dune interactions and a model of these interactions and dunefield evolution; (iii) jet flows and dynamics in trough blowouts, including the nature of topographic flow steering in such blowouts; (iv) the morphometric relationships between trough blowout erosional morphologies and depositional lobe morphologies; (v) linear dunes can migrate laterally, (vi) the relationships between faunal abundance and species richness and nebkha size and plant species type; (vii) the nature of speed-down and speed-up within vegetation up a foredune stoss slope; (vii) jet flow over foredunes; (viii) trailing ridges may be produced from the margins of transverse dunes, (ix) the dunes on Saturn's moon, Titan, may be linear (rather than transverse) due to the 'sticky' nature of the sediments, and (x) the existence and species of phytoplankton in South Australian surfzones.

Subjects/Keywords: Sand dunes; Sand dune ecology; Coastal zone management; Coast changes

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APA (6^th Edition):

Hesp, P. A. (2013). Studies on coastal and desert dunes, and coastal systems : a thesis submitted for the degree of Doctor of Science of Massey University . (Thesis). Massey University. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/10179/14231

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Hesp, Patrick A. “Studies on coastal and desert dunes, and coastal systems : a thesis submitted for the degree of Doctor of Science of Massey University .” 2013. Thesis, Massey University. Accessed January 19, 2021. http://hdl.handle.net/10179/14231.

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Hesp, Patrick A. “Studies on coastal and desert dunes, and coastal systems : a thesis submitted for the degree of Doctor of Science of Massey University .” 2013. Web. 19 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Hesp PA. Studies on coastal and desert dunes, and coastal systems : a thesis submitted for the degree of Doctor of Science of Massey University . [Internet] [Thesis]. Massey University; 2013. [cited 2021 Jan 19]. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/10179/14231.

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Council of Science Editors:

Hesp PA. Studies on coastal and desert dunes, and coastal systems : a thesis submitted for the degree of Doctor of Science of Massey University . [Thesis]. Massey University; 2013. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/10179/14231

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

10. Salles, Ana Carolina Ribeiro. Ecologia trófica do extrato juvenil de peixes carangídeos do infralitoral raso da enseada de Caraguatatuba, São Paulo.

Degree: Mestrado, Oceanografia Biológica, 2009, University of São Paulo

URL: http://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/21/21131/tde-29042010-164412/ ;

►

Este trabalho teve como objetivo o estudo dos hábitos alimentares de três espécies de peixes da família Carangidae, da zona de surf da enseada de… (more)

▼

Este trabalho teve como objetivo o estudo dos hábitos alimentares de três espécies de peixes da família Carangidae, da zona de surf da enseada de Caraguatatuba, São Paulo. Amostras de Selene setapinnis, Selene vomer e Oligoplites saliens foram obtidas com rede de arrasto de porta, mensalmente, entre maio de 2003 e outubro de 2004, em duas áreas previamente selecionadas na enseada, com profundidade variando entre 1 e 5 metros. Foram medidos e pesados 3022 exemplares, e 1367 estômagos foram retirados para a análise de conteúdo estomacal. A composição da dieta foi analisada por meio das frequências de ocorrência, numérica, gravimétrica, e volumétrica, e de índices alimentares. Todos os exemplares eram jovens e a sua dieta foi composta principalmente por Crustacea. Outros grandes grupos presentes foram Chaetognatha e Teleostei. Dentre os crustáceos, destacaramse as larvas de Decapoda, os misidáceos, os camarões Acetes americanus e os copépodes calanóides Labidocera fluviatilis e Acartia lilljeborgii. As variações intraespecíficas da dieta, bem como as relações interespecíficas, foram avaliadas através de análises de agrupamento. Foi observada uma tendência de aumento do tamanho da presa com o aumento do tamanho do peixe. Embora A. americanus tenha sido importante na dieta em todos os tamanhos, nas três espécies, houve maior destaque desse item nos peixes maiores, enquanto Lucifer faxoni e larvas de Decapoda foram mais importantes nos menores. Avaliando-se o comportamento alimentar, há indicações de que as três espécies tendem a ser generalistas e a explorar o hábitat de maneira semelhante. Em relação à variabilidade temporal, as espécies diferiram entre si: S. vomer, não apresentou diferença intra-anual significativa, ao contrário de S. setapinnis e O. saliens.

The purpose of this work was to study the food habits of three Carangidae juvenile fish species, from the surf zone in Caraguatatuba sound, São Paulo. Samples were taken monthly, with an otter trawl, from May 2003 to October 2004, in two areas previously selected in the bay, between 1 and 5 meters deep. Weight and length of 3002 specimens were taken, and 1367 stomach contents were examined. The diet composition was analyzed through frequencies of occurrence, number, weight and volume, and feeding indexes. The main food item was Crustacea, particularly Decapoda larvae, Mysidae, the shrimp Acetes americanus, and the calanoid copepods Labidocera fluviatilis and Acartia lilljeborgii. Chaetognatha and Teleostei were also present. Seasonal and ontogenetic variations of the diet and interspecific interactions were performed by similarity measures. Ontogenetic changes in diet were recognized; smaller fish consumed smaller prey, and the prey size increased with the body size. Though Acetes americanus were the main item of all sizes, it was more important in bigger fish, while Lucifer faxoni and Decapoda larvae were more important in smaller ones. Selene setapinnis and Oligoplites saliens showed temporal food variability, but Selene vomer did not. The three species were…

Advisors/Committee Members: Soares, Lucy Satiko Hashimoto.

Subjects/Keywords: Carangidae; Carangidae; diet; dieta; ontogenetic diet shift; Southeast Brazilian Coast; surf zone; variação ontogenética; zona de surf costa sudeste do Brasil

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APA (6^th Edition):

Salles, A. C. R. (2009). Ecologia trófica do extrato juvenil de peixes carangídeos do infralitoral raso da enseada de Caraguatatuba, São Paulo. (Masters Thesis). University of São Paulo. Retrieved from http://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/21/21131/tde-29042010-164412/ ;

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Salles, Ana Carolina Ribeiro. “Ecologia trófica do extrato juvenil de peixes carangídeos do infralitoral raso da enseada de Caraguatatuba, São Paulo.” 2009. Masters Thesis, University of São Paulo. Accessed January 19, 2021. http://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/21/21131/tde-29042010-164412/ ;.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Salles, Ana Carolina Ribeiro. “Ecologia trófica do extrato juvenil de peixes carangídeos do infralitoral raso da enseada de Caraguatatuba, São Paulo.” 2009. Web. 19 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Salles ACR. Ecologia trófica do extrato juvenil de peixes carangídeos do infralitoral raso da enseada de Caraguatatuba, São Paulo. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. University of São Paulo; 2009. [cited 2021 Jan 19]. Available from: http://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/21/21131/tde-29042010-164412/ ;.

Council of Science Editors:

Salles ACR. Ecologia trófica do extrato juvenil de peixes carangídeos do infralitoral raso da enseada de Caraguatatuba, São Paulo. [Masters Thesis]. University of São Paulo; 2009. Available from: http://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/21/21131/tde-29042010-164412/ ;

Cornell University

11. Rusello, Peter. CROSSTEX: A Description of the Experimental Condtions, Wave Climate, and Inner Surf Zone Hydrodynamics.

Degree: 2007, Cornell University

URL: http://hdl.handle.net/1813/5244

► The Cross Shore Sediment Transport Experiments (CROSSTEX) are a group of experiments examining sediment transport processes in the near shore environment with the goal of… (more)

▼ The Cross Shore Sediment Transport Experiments (CROSSTEX) are a group of experiments examining sediment transport processes in the near shore environment with the goal of improving process based models for sediment transport. This is accomplished via large scale lab experiments utilizing advanced instrumentation and controlled, repeatable wave conditions as well as a natural sand beach. One section of these experiments examined sediment transport in the swash zone, the alternating wet and dry portion of the beach. Velocity data was collected from outside the breaker line into the surf zone, along with free surface measurements throughout the tank. Additional instrumentation to measure optical backscatter, sediment grain velocity and water pressure was deployed in the near shore. Waves consisted of regular, 5th order Stokes waves with wave heights ranging from 12 cm to 30 cm, two runs with a simple bi-chromatic wave train and one run with random waves. An analysis of wave climate stability and wave repeatability indicates the wave tank approaches a steady, repeatable wave climate after approximately 5 minutes although bathymetry changes ultimately affect repeatability in the near shore. Comparison of the time averaged mean free surface with empirical estimates shows good agreement with other studies conducted in both the field and wave tanks. Phase averaged velocity profiles taken in the offshore by an Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP) indicate a 2-D flow environment with minimal along shore flow and repeatable wave conditions. An alternate processing scheme was developed for the ADCP data to allow redundant estimates of each velocity component which was used to assess flow uniformity. Phase averaged velocity data in the surf zone taken from Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters (ADVs) revealed occasional strong along shore flow and more complex flow structure, but supports wave repeatability. Analysis of the bathymetry data in the surf zone revealed strong along shore gradients, which contribute to the more complex flow seen in the surf zone. Surf zone turbulence obtained by applying a linear predictive filter to velocity signals and differencing the filtered and original signals indicates plunging to weakly plunging breaking conditions as well as providing order of magnitude estimates of turbulent dissipation in the surf zone. Recommendations for the conduct of future large scale experiments (field or lab) in the surf zone and in general, and future work on the present data are provided.

Subjects/Keywords: surf zone; sediment transport; turbulence; crosstex

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Rusello, P. (2007). CROSSTEX: A Description of the Experimental Condtions, Wave Climate, and Inner Surf Zone Hydrodynamics. (Thesis). Cornell University. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/1813/5244

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Rusello, Peter. “CROSSTEX: A Description of the Experimental Condtions, Wave Climate, and Inner Surf Zone Hydrodynamics.” 2007. Thesis, Cornell University. Accessed January 19, 2021. http://hdl.handle.net/1813/5244.

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Rusello, Peter. “CROSSTEX: A Description of the Experimental Condtions, Wave Climate, and Inner Surf Zone Hydrodynamics.” 2007. Web. 19 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Rusello P. CROSSTEX: A Description of the Experimental Condtions, Wave Climate, and Inner Surf Zone Hydrodynamics. [Internet] [Thesis]. Cornell University; 2007. [cited 2021 Jan 19]. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1813/5244.

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Council of Science Editors:

Rusello P. CROSSTEX: A Description of the Experimental Condtions, Wave Climate, and Inner Surf Zone Hydrodynamics. [Thesis]. Cornell University; 2007. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1813/5244

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

University of New South Wales

12. Van Leeuwen, Ben. Beach safety in atypical rip current systems: testing traditional beach safety messages in non-traditional settings.

Degree: Biological, Earth & Environmental Sciences, 2015, University of New South Wales

URL: http://handle.unsw.edu.au/1959.4/55195 ; https://unsworks.unsw.edu.au/fapi/datastream/unsworks:36731/SOURCE02?view=true

► As a major coastal process and hazard, rip currents are a topic of considerable interest from both a scientific and safety perspective. Collaborations between these… (more)

▼ As a major coastal process and hazard, rip currents are a topic of considerable interest from both a scientific and safety perspective. Collaborations between these two areas are a recent development, yet a scientific basis for safety information is crucial to better understanding how to avoid and mitigate the hazard presented by rip currents. One such area is the field of swimmer escape strategies. Contemporary safety advice is divided on the relative merits of a ‘Stay Afloat’ versus ‘Swim Parallel’ strategy, yet conceptual understanding of both these strategies is largely based on an idealised model of rip current morphology and flow dynamics where channels are incised in shore-connected bars.Two field studies of swimmer escape methods were conducted in NSW, Australia, making use of Lagrangian flow measurements and GPS-equipped swimmers to determine the viability of escape actions in rip current systems differing from this idealised model. At North Cronulla Beach two rip current systems were observed, with a rhythmic detached bar system compared to a current incised in shore-welded transverse bars. The detached bar system was found to produce long duration floats that were unsuccessful as an escape mechanism, and presented a distance-based hazard to those seeking to swim out of the system. At Bulli Beach, a topographic rip current in the lee of a headland was measured, with a Stay Afloat strategy, aided by strongly recirculating flow, producing rapid escapes and a high success rate. Of note in both studies, a newly tested Swim Onshore strategy was also found to be highly successful, with potential implications for future study and safety campaigns.The results of these studies are synthesised with the existing literature to produce a conceptual model of escape viability linked to morphological beach state, finding a decreasing gradient of escape viability with increased wave energy, and hypothesised negative outcomes for swimmers of limited ability in most scenarios, with implications for future safety education and research. Advisors/Committee Members: Brander, Robert, Biological, Earth & Environmental Sciences, Faculty of Science, UNSW, Turner, Ian, Water Research Laboratory, Faculty of Engineering, UNSW.

Subjects/Keywords: Beach safety; Rip current; Swimmer; Risk management; Beach morphology; Beach hazard; Lagrangian drifters; Surf zone

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Van Leeuwen, B. (2015). Beach safety in atypical rip current systems: testing traditional beach safety messages in non-traditional settings. (Masters Thesis). University of New South Wales. Retrieved from http://handle.unsw.edu.au/1959.4/55195 ; https://unsworks.unsw.edu.au/fapi/datastream/unsworks:36731/SOURCE02?view=true

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Van Leeuwen, Ben. “Beach safety in atypical rip current systems: testing traditional beach safety messages in non-traditional settings.” 2015. Masters Thesis, University of New South Wales. Accessed January 19, 2021. http://handle.unsw.edu.au/1959.4/55195 ; https://unsworks.unsw.edu.au/fapi/datastream/unsworks:36731/SOURCE02?view=true.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Van Leeuwen, Ben. “Beach safety in atypical rip current systems: testing traditional beach safety messages in non-traditional settings.” 2015. Web. 19 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Van Leeuwen B. Beach safety in atypical rip current systems: testing traditional beach safety messages in non-traditional settings. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. University of New South Wales; 2015. [cited 2021 Jan 19]. Available from: http://handle.unsw.edu.au/1959.4/55195 ; https://unsworks.unsw.edu.au/fapi/datastream/unsworks:36731/SOURCE02?view=true.

Council of Science Editors:

Van Leeuwen B. Beach safety in atypical rip current systems: testing traditional beach safety messages in non-traditional settings. [Masters Thesis]. University of New South Wales; 2015. Available from: http://handle.unsw.edu.au/1959.4/55195 ; https://unsworks.unsw.edu.au/fapi/datastream/unsworks:36731/SOURCE02?view=true

Université de Grenoble

13. Berni, Céline. Processus de mobilisation et de transport de sédiments dans la zone de déferlement : Sediment destabilisation and transport processes in the surf zone.

Degree: Docteur es, Océan, Atmosphère, Hydrologie, 2011, Université de Grenoble

URL: http://www.theses.fr/2011GRENU041

►

Ce travail porte sur les processus locaux de déstabilisation, d'érosion et de transport des sédiments sous l'action des vagues en zone de déferlement. L'étude s'appuie… (more)

▼

Ce travail porte sur les processus locaux de déstabilisation, d'érosion et de transport des sédiments sous l'action des vagues en zone de déferlement. L'étude s'appuie sur une modélisation physique menée dans le canal à houle du LEGI avec un sédiment léger pour respecter les similitudes de Rouse et de Shields. Dans ces expériences, nous développons des techniques de mesure optiques, acoustiques et de pression. Ces capteurs nous permettent de caractériser la couche limite en vitesses et en concentration mais aussi d'étudier la réponse du lit aux sollicitations des vagues via la quantification de profondeurs d'érosion, d'épaisseurs de la couche de sédiments en mouvement, fortement concentrée et de la transmission de la pression interstitielle. L'influence des non-linéarités de la houle sur le transport sédimentaire est étudiée, en particulier la dissymétrie de l'accélération (ou asymétrie). Elle est constatée sur la mesure de flux sédimentaire. Deux mécanismes sont identifiés. i) Une asymétrie hors de la couche limite conduit à une dissymétrie de vitesse dans la couche limite qui produit un transport net. ii) L'accélération hors de la couche limite est proportionnelle au gradient horizontal de pression et l'effort de pression qu'il suscite peut déstabiliser le lit (plug-flow). Nous vérifions dans nos expériences que la contrainte de cisaillement (caractérisée par le nombre de Shields) et le gradient de pression (caractérisé par le nombre de Sleath) peuvent alternativement déstabiliser le lit.

This study investigates the local processes of surf-zone bed sediment destabilization, erosion and transport. It is based on a physical model in the LEGI wave flume using lightweight sediment to fulfill scaling laws. Optical, acoustical and pressure sensors measurements technics were developped. The sensors are used simultaneously to characterize the bottom boundary layer in terms of velocities and concentration. The bed response was also determined measuring erosion depth, sheet-flow thickness and pore-pressure pressure transmission. This work mainly focuses on non-linearities of the flow and their effect on transport, especially the acceleration skewness. It is shown that this asymmetry contributes to the sediment transport in two different ways. One mechanism is that the free-stream asymmetry of the flow results in a velocity skewness near the bed, it produces a net transport. The second one is that the free-stream acceleration is proportional to the horizontal pressure gradient. This pressure stress can destabilize the bed in a form of a plug-flow. Our results show that shear stress (characterized by the Shields number) and pressure gradients (characterized by the Sleath number) can in turn destabilize the bed.

Advisors/Committee Members: Barthélémy, Eric (thesis director), Michallet, Hervé (thesis director).

Subjects/Keywords: Sheet flow; Transport; Zone de déferlement; Destabilisation du lit; Sheet flow; Transport; Surf zone; Bed destabilization; 550

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APA (6^th Edition):

Berni, C. (2011). Processus de mobilisation et de transport de sédiments dans la zone de déferlement : Sediment destabilisation and transport processes in the surf zone. (Doctoral Dissertation). Université de Grenoble. Retrieved from http://www.theses.fr/2011GRENU041

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Berni, Céline. “Processus de mobilisation et de transport de sédiments dans la zone de déferlement : Sediment destabilisation and transport processes in the surf zone.” 2011. Doctoral Dissertation, Université de Grenoble. Accessed January 19, 2021. http://www.theses.fr/2011GRENU041.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Berni, Céline. “Processus de mobilisation et de transport de sédiments dans la zone de déferlement : Sediment destabilisation and transport processes in the surf zone.” 2011. Web. 19 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Berni C. Processus de mobilisation et de transport de sédiments dans la zone de déferlement : Sediment destabilisation and transport processes in the surf zone. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. Université de Grenoble; 2011. [cited 2021 Jan 19]. Available from: http://www.theses.fr/2011GRENU041.

Council of Science Editors:

Berni C. Processus de mobilisation et de transport de sédiments dans la zone de déferlement : Sediment destabilisation and transport processes in the surf zone. [Doctoral Dissertation]. Université de Grenoble; 2011. Available from: http://www.theses.fr/2011GRENU041

Stellenbosch University

14. Barwell, Lauriston. Integrity assessment procedure for buffer dune systems on the Cape South Coast, South Africa.

Degree: Civil Engineering, 2011, Stellenbosch University

URL: http://hdl.handle.net/10019.1/6524

►

Thesis (MScEng (Civil Engineering)) – University of Stellenbosch, 2011.

ENGLISH ABSTRACT: The hypothesis postulated in this research, namely that the effectiveness of natural and constructed buffer… (more)

▼

Thesis (MScEng (Civil Engineering)) – University of Stellenbosch, 2011.

ENGLISH ABSTRACT: The hypothesis postulated in this research, namely that the effectiveness of natural and constructed buffer dune systems can be assessed by a set of indicators that defines the integrity of the dune system and triggers informed management decisions, was evaluated and proved to be essentially true. Two key objectives, namely (1) the identification of key indicators that define the buffer dune integrity; and (2) the development of a scientifically defendable and practical checklist-based method of gathering qualitative information on the identified key indicators so as to guide decision-making at municipal level formed the core of the study. The six dune integrity indicators that collectively define the risk profile of a particular site along the Southern Cape coastline are (1) the degree of protection from prevailing wave energy, (2) the characteristics of the dominant winds and sand supply during the dry season, (3) the relative height of the foredune, (4) the degree of pressure on the buffer dune due to humans, (5) the vulnerability of the type of coastline to erosion, and (6) the coastline stability considering the prevailing coastal processes. The first two indicators relate to the natural (permanent) characteristics of the site and can be defined by experts and presented in the form of a risk and vulnerability atlas layer for direct use by non-experts. The third and fourth indicators relate directly to the implementation of proactive assessment and appropriate management actions to ensure a high level of buffer dune integrity. The last two indicators allow for management intervention to reduce the vulnerability but may entail costly engineering solutions and require expert input. A conceptual risk profile assessment procedure and a decision support guideline incorporating these indicators were developed and evaluated for relevance and practicality through a series of workshops with municipal officials along the south coast of South Africa. It was seen that although some initial basic training may be required, carrying out rapid assessments of the environmental status of key components of an identified human–nature system, such as a buffer dune, is practical and achievable by non-experts.

AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: Die hipotese wat in hierdie navorsing gepostuleer is, naamlik dat die doeltreffendheid van natuurlike en geboude bufferduinstelsels geassesseer kan word deur ’n stel aanwysers wat die integriteit van die duinstelsel bepaal en ingeligte bestuursbesluite tot gevolg het, is getoets en bewys hoofsaaklik waar te wees. Twee sleuteldoelwitte, naamlik (1) die identifisering van sleutelaanwysers wat die bufferduinintegriteit bepaal; en (2) die ontwikkeling van ’n praktiese kontrolelys-gebaseerde metode wat wetenskaplik verdedigbaar is om kwalitatiewe inligting oor die geïdentifiseerde sleutelaanwysers in te samel ten einde besluitneming op munisipale vlak te bevorder, vorm die kern van die…

Advisors/Committee Members: Toms, G., Bosman, D. E., University of Stellenbosch. Faculty of Engineering. Dept. of Civil Engineering..

Subjects/Keywords: Civil engineering; Sand dune conservation; Coastal zone management – South Africa; Sand dunes – South Africa

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Barwell, L. (2011). Integrity assessment procedure for buffer dune systems on the Cape South Coast, South Africa. (Thesis). Stellenbosch University. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/10019.1/6524

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Barwell, Lauriston. “Integrity assessment procedure for buffer dune systems on the Cape South Coast, South Africa.” 2011. Thesis, Stellenbosch University. Accessed January 19, 2021. http://hdl.handle.net/10019.1/6524.

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Barwell, Lauriston. “Integrity assessment procedure for buffer dune systems on the Cape South Coast, South Africa.” 2011. Web. 19 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Barwell L. Integrity assessment procedure for buffer dune systems on the Cape South Coast, South Africa. [Internet] [Thesis]. Stellenbosch University; 2011. [cited 2021 Jan 19]. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/10019.1/6524.

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Council of Science Editors:

Barwell L. Integrity assessment procedure for buffer dune systems on the Cape South Coast, South Africa. [Thesis]. Stellenbosch University; 2011. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/10019.1/6524

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Delft University of Technology

15. Jacobs, L.B. (author). Sand Erosion in Cold Heavy Oil Production with Sand.

Degree: 2012, Delft University of Technology

URL: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:c6110e4a-86d0-4423-aedd-fe3e5d55d20f

►

Cold Heavy Oil Production with Sand (CHOPS) is a production method to produce heavy oil (>100 cP). It is mainly applied onshore Canada in unconsolidated… (more)

Subjects/Keywords: CHOPS; oil; production; CT; erosion; sand; experiment; weak zone; cavity

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APA (6^th Edition):

Jacobs, L. B. (. (2012). Sand Erosion in Cold Heavy Oil Production with Sand. (Masters Thesis). Delft University of Technology. Retrieved from http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:c6110e4a-86d0-4423-aedd-fe3e5d55d20f

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Jacobs, L B (author). “Sand Erosion in Cold Heavy Oil Production with Sand.” 2012. Masters Thesis, Delft University of Technology. Accessed January 19, 2021. http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:c6110e4a-86d0-4423-aedd-fe3e5d55d20f.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Jacobs, L B (author). “Sand Erosion in Cold Heavy Oil Production with Sand.” 2012. Web. 19 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Jacobs LB(. Sand Erosion in Cold Heavy Oil Production with Sand. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2012. [cited 2021 Jan 19]. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:c6110e4a-86d0-4423-aedd-fe3e5d55d20f.

Council of Science Editors:

Jacobs LB(. Sand Erosion in Cold Heavy Oil Production with Sand. [Masters Thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2012. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:c6110e4a-86d0-4423-aedd-fe3e5d55d20f

University of Plymouth

16. Rendle, Emma Jane. The environmental, social and economic impacts of an artificial surf reef : the UK experience.

Degree: PhD, 2016, University of Plymouth

URL: http://hdl.handle.net/10026.1/5152

► The study presented in this thesis discusses the topic of ASRs through the use of a specific case study constructed at Boscombe, UK. With the… (more)

▼ The study presented in this thesis discusses the topic of ASRs through the use of a specific case study constructed at Boscombe, UK. With the main aim to provide an impartial and independent study into the environmental, social and economic impacts of an ASR. The research presented is therefore multidisciplinary in nature, the separate components utilise key techniques from the geophysical, numerical modelling and socio-economic disciplines are combined to present a significant contribution to the knowledge and understanding of ASRs. Whilst previous studies have focused on one of these disciplines, there are no independent detailed studies of a constructed ASR utilising an multidisciplinary approach. The ASR concept and structures are still in their development infancy, the subject has received cursory independent review in the literature. There have been few successful projects, those that have survived structurally in the ocean are not being used primarily for surfing. The Boscombe ASR is an example of high overspend, poor management and construction, loss of geotextile SFC and users deem the project a failure. The consequences of not correctly planning, managing and overseeing the construction has resulted in a poorly viewed project of limited success. All stages of this project could have benefited from thoughtful planning, thereby avoiding this outcome. If lessons are to be learnt from this project then the planning and management are key areas of the process that need addressing. Ensuring that any future ASR projects are securely integrated with the coastal zone management plan will provide sustainability and success. The DPSIR framework approach can be used to highlight and address the causes of problems in the project. This framework enables the various disciplines to be discussed in relation to each other; links can be identified between the environmental, social and economic impacts of the ASR construction. Strict protocols will increase the success of any ASR project. The final crest height of the Boscombe ASR was 0.5 m higher than the final design height, this is a fundamental design flaw that should not be occurring in modern coastal engineering practice. It is suggested that guidelines are written based on this research for the design and construction process of an ASR. The recommendations and guidelines for ASR monitoring are provided by this research. The emphasis for future projects should lie in the final design and in monitoring, baseline field data should be collected to understand the environmental state change and socio-economic impacts. Planning and government proposals should be accompanied by extensive stakeholder engagement ensuring transparency for the project and ownership within the coastal community. The exclusion of stakeholders at key decision points created distrust and misunderstanding towards the Boscombe ASR project. Avoiding unrealistic expectations within the surfing community and wider coastal community was discussed throughout this research, and by others in the literature.…

Subjects/Keywords: 333.95; Artificial Reef; Geotextile; Geosynthetics; Coastal Management; Coastal Development; Surf Tourism; Artificial Surf Reef; Beach management; Coastal Zone Impact Assessment; Environmental Impact Assessment; Socio-perception; Multi-disciplinary

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Rendle, E. J. (2016). The environmental, social and economic impacts of an artificial surf reef : the UK experience. (Doctoral Dissertation). University of Plymouth. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/10026.1/5152

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Rendle, Emma Jane. “The environmental, social and economic impacts of an artificial surf reef : the UK experience.” 2016. Doctoral Dissertation, University of Plymouth. Accessed January 19, 2021. http://hdl.handle.net/10026.1/5152.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Rendle, Emma Jane. “The environmental, social and economic impacts of an artificial surf reef : the UK experience.” 2016. Web. 19 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Rendle EJ. The environmental, social and economic impacts of an artificial surf reef : the UK experience. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. University of Plymouth; 2016. [cited 2021 Jan 19]. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/10026.1/5152.

Council of Science Editors:

Rendle EJ. The environmental, social and economic impacts of an artificial surf reef : the UK experience. [Doctoral Dissertation]. University of Plymouth; 2016. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/10026.1/5152

17. Di Leonardo, Diana R. Regional scale sandbar variability : observations from the U.S. Pacific Northwest.

Degree: MS, Geology, 2012, Oregon State University

URL: http://hdl.handle.net/1957/36079

► Understanding sandbar dynamics and variability is integral to developing a predictive capacity for nearshore flows, sediment transport, morphological change, and ultimately for determining coastline exposure… (more)

▼ Understanding sandbar dynamics and variability is integral to developing a predictive capacity for nearshore flows, sediment transport, morphological change, and ultimately for determining coastline exposure to damaging storm waves. Along the high-energy U.S. Pacific Northwest (PNW) coast, sandbars typically dominate the bathymetry of the active zone. Here we report on a nearshore bathymetric data set that covers an exceptionally long stretch of coast and crosses several littoral cell boundaries. Our study area stretches from Point Grenville, Washington to Cascade Head, Oregon, including 8 littoral cells and approximately 250 km in the alongshore. We describe and quantify the morphological variability of sandbars in the PNW over large spatial scales as well as attempt to explain the inter-littoral cell variability via trends and variability in environmental parameters. From 560 bathymetric profiles (~1000 km of measurements) we have extracted over 500 distinct subtidal sandbars. The bar zone extends to over 1km from the shoreline in the northern part of the study area, but only to about 600m in the southern part. Maximum bar crest depths are typically 7m below MLLW. Bar heights range from a step in the cross-shore profile to over 3m from crest to trough. The northernmost littoral cells typically have two or more bars per cross-shore profile whereas the littoral cells in the southern part of our study area have only one bar. The mean depths of the bars, however, are much more consistent across littoral cells. The mean depths remain consistent even while the upper shoreface slope significantly increases from north to south, requiring that the maximum bar distance from the shoreline decreases from north to south. This regional gradient in upper shoreface slope is likely a response, at least in part, to a general coarsening trend in the sediment from north to south and hence linked to variations in regional geology. Advisors/Committee Members: Ruggiero, Peter (advisor), Holman, Robert (committee member).

Subjects/Keywords: sandbars; Sand bars – Washington (State) – Pacific Coast

…continuously from approximately 2km offshore (~12 to 25m depth) through the surf zone to… …intertidal zone (approximately -1.5m to 1m), only subtidal bars (crest depth less… …the entirety of a littoral cell as the effective bar zone. Bars in the CRLC and Cannon Beach… …Introduction Nearshore sandbars are found in the active zone of sandy coastlines worldwide, often… …contain substantial volumes of sand, and are important expressions of nearshore sediment…

10 more images…

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Di Leonardo, D. R. (2012). Regional scale sandbar variability : observations from the U.S. Pacific Northwest. (Masters Thesis). Oregon State University. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/1957/36079

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Di Leonardo, Diana R. “Regional scale sandbar variability : observations from the U.S. Pacific Northwest.” 2012. Masters Thesis, Oregon State University. Accessed January 19, 2021. http://hdl.handle.net/1957/36079.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Di Leonardo, Diana R. “Regional scale sandbar variability : observations from the U.S. Pacific Northwest.” 2012. Web. 19 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Di Leonardo DR. Regional scale sandbar variability : observations from the U.S. Pacific Northwest. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Oregon State University; 2012. [cited 2021 Jan 19]. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1957/36079.

Council of Science Editors:

Di Leonardo DR. Regional scale sandbar variability : observations from the U.S. Pacific Northwest. [Masters Thesis]. Oregon State University; 2012. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1957/36079

University of Hong Kong

18. 王為. Some aspects of bay bar development in Hong Kong.

Degree: 1996, University of Hong Kong

URL: http://hdl.handle.net/10722/34478

Subjects/Keywords: Sand bars - Effect of sediments on - China - Hong Kong.

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

王為.. (1996). Some aspects of bay bar development in Hong Kong. (Thesis). University of Hong Kong. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/10722/34478

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Author name may be incomplete
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

王為.. “Some aspects of bay bar development in Hong Kong.” 1996. Thesis, University of Hong Kong. Accessed January 19, 2021. http://hdl.handle.net/10722/34478.

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Author name may be incomplete
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

王為.. “Some aspects of bay bar development in Hong Kong.” 1996. Web. 19 Jan 2021.

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Author name may be incomplete

Vancouver:

王為.. Some aspects of bay bar development in Hong Kong. [Internet] [Thesis]. University of Hong Kong; 1996. [cited 2021 Jan 19]. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/10722/34478.

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Author name may be incomplete
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Council of Science Editors:

王為.. Some aspects of bay bar development in Hong Kong. [Thesis]. University of Hong Kong; 1996. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/10722/34478

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Author name may be incomplete
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Universidade do Rio Grande do Sul

19. Avila, Tatiana Ramos. Variação temporal de zooplâncton da zona de arrebentação da Praia de Tramandaí - RS e observações laboratoriais do copépode Ctenocalanus vanus.

Degree: 2007, Universidade do Rio Grande do Sul

URL: http://hdl.handle.net/10183/8650

►

Com o objetivo de se conhecer a comunidade zooplanctônica da zona de arrebentação da Praia de Tramandaí – RS e identificar a variação sazonal das… (more)

▼

Com o objetivo de se conhecer a comunidade zooplanctônica da zona de arrebentação da Praia de Tramandaí – RS e identificar a variação sazonal das espécies e sua relação com os padrões de ventos e influências de massas de água, foram realizadas 24 amostragens com intervalo de quinze dias entre agosto de 2005 e agosto de 2006. Dados de temperatura do ar e da água, salinidade, velocidade do vento e direção do vento e da corrente de deriva foram obtidos no campo no momento de cada coleta. A concentração de clorofila-a foi obtida em laboratório, assim como a identificação e quantificação do zooplâncton e sua biomassa em peso seco. Copepoda foi o grupo mais diverso com maior importância representada pela espécie Temora turbinata, seguida de Acartia tonsa e Subeucalanus pileatus. O misidáceo Metamysidopsis elongata atlantica apresentou entre todos os taxa encontrados, a maior freqüência de ocorrência e abundância relativa, correspondendo a grande parte da biomassa em peso seco encontrada. Biomassa de zooplâncton e clorofila-a não apresentaram correlação significativa, apresentando picos de 96 mg.m-³ e 138 μg.L-¹, respectivamente. O copépode Ctenocalanus vanus, apesar de originário de Águas Subantárticas e Subtropicais foi freqüente na região de estudo e a falta de conhecimento sobre seu comportamento e exigências reprodutivas nos levou a realizar testes de laboratório que permitiram observar sua forma de desova e eclosão, assim como estimar valores de produção de ovos, pelotas fecais e náuplios em duas dietas diferentes. Assim os dados levantados servirão de base para novos estudos que permitam um maior entendimento dos processos que ocorrem na coluna d’água da Praia de Tramandaí - RS.

This article aims at the research of the zooplanktonic community of the Tramandaí Beach – RS surf zone and at the identification of the seasonal variation of the species; its relations with wind patterns and water mass influence. To reach such objective, 24 samplings were done between August 2005 and August 2006 at intervals of fifteen days. Data about air and water temperature, salinity, wind speed, drift current, and wind direction were collected in the field at the same time of each sampling. The chlorophyll-a concentration was measured in laboratory as well as the identification and quantification of the zooplankton and its dry biomass. Copepoda was the most diverse group. Temora turbinata was the most important species followed by Acartia tonsa and Subeucalanus pileatus. The Mysidacea Metamysidopsis elongata atlantica expressed the highest frequency of occurrence and relative abundance among all taxa, corresponding to a considerable part of the total dry biomass. Zooplankton biomass and chlorophyll-a did not present significant correlation. The highest concentrations found were 96 mg.m-³ and 138 μg.L-¹ respectively. In spite of being originated in Subtropical and sub-Antarctic waters, the copepod Ctenocalanus vanus was frequently found in the study area. Because of the lack of knowledge about their behaviour and reproductive…

Advisors/Committee Members: Pedrozo, Catarina da Silva.

Subjects/Keywords: Zooplâncton; Surf zone; Tramandaí Beach; Copepoda; Copépodes : Ctenocalanus vanus; Zooplankton; Tramandaí, Praia de (RS); Temora turbinata; Ctenocalanus vanus

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Avila, T. R. (2007). Variação temporal de zooplâncton da zona de arrebentação da Praia de Tramandaí - RS e observações laboratoriais do copépode Ctenocalanus vanus. (Thesis). Universidade do Rio Grande do Sul. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/10183/8650

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Avila, Tatiana Ramos. “Variação temporal de zooplâncton da zona de arrebentação da Praia de Tramandaí - RS e observações laboratoriais do copépode Ctenocalanus vanus.” 2007. Thesis, Universidade do Rio Grande do Sul. Accessed January 19, 2021. http://hdl.handle.net/10183/8650.

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Avila, Tatiana Ramos. “Variação temporal de zooplâncton da zona de arrebentação da Praia de Tramandaí - RS e observações laboratoriais do copépode Ctenocalanus vanus.” 2007. Web. 19 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Avila TR. Variação temporal de zooplâncton da zona de arrebentação da Praia de Tramandaí - RS e observações laboratoriais do copépode Ctenocalanus vanus. [Internet] [Thesis]. Universidade do Rio Grande do Sul; 2007. [cited 2021 Jan 19]. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/10183/8650.

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Council of Science Editors:

Avila TR. Variação temporal de zooplâncton da zona de arrebentação da Praia de Tramandaí - RS e observações laboratoriais do copépode Ctenocalanus vanus. [Thesis]. Universidade do Rio Grande do Sul; 2007. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/10183/8650

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

20. Fábio Magno da Silva Santana. Ictiofauna da Zona de Arrebentação da Praia de Jaguaribe, Itamaracá, Pernambuco : composição, abundância e distribuição mensal.

Degree: 2009, Universidade Federal Rural de Pernambuco

URL: http://200.17.137.108/tde_busca/arquivo.php?codArquivo=261

►

The fish assemblage structure of the Jaguaribe surfzone, located in the Island of Itamaracá, state of Pernambuco, northeastern Brazil, was analyzed. Samples were collected monthly,… (more)

▼

The fish assemblage structure of the Jaguaribe surfzone, located in the Island of Itamaracá, state of Pernambuco, northeastern Brazil, was analyzed. Samples were collected monthly, from March 2006 until February 2007, in the New and First Quarter moon cycles, during night and day periods. The equipment used for collecting the samples was a beach seine net, 20 m long, 1,5 m high and 5 mm mesh size. A total of 6,407 individuals, belonging to 35 families and 92 species, was collected. Anchoviella lepidentostole;Bairdiella ronchus; Lycengraulis grossidens;Polydactylus virginicus; Larimus breviceps; Anchoa tricolor; Chirocentrodon bleekerianus; Pomadasys corvinaeformis; Stellifer stellifer; Stellifer rastrifer; Lile piquitinga; Conodon nobilis; Menticirrhus americanus; Pellona harroweri and Anchoa marinii dominated quantitatively, representing 90.65% of all specimens captured, being the remainder 9.35% distributed among the other 77 species. There was no significant difference in abundances among months and moon phases, however the daily period abundance was higher than the nocturne one. The surf zone of Jaguaribe beach is dominated by a group of six species (A. tricolor, A. lepidentostole, B. ronchus, L. breviceps, L. grossidens and P. virginicus), which are frequent and abundant throughout the year. This surf zone showed a rich ichthyofauna with a high species diversity most of the months, almost half of them presenting some importance to the fishery in the region. Most species which visit this area are represented by juveniles and small-sized individuals, demonstrating that the site is a nursery ground for many species during their life cycle. The proximity to the Jaguaribe River estuary may be responsible for the high number of species recordedin this place, thus indicating the necessity of a study capable of evaluating the connectivity among these habitats. Finally, such high number of species visiting these sites and the prevalence of juveniles permit to stress the importance of the beach environment for their life cycle and the maintenance of their population stocks. Therefore, these environments deserve an adequate attention, such as the creation of environmental education oriented public policy aiming at awakening resident and visiting population about the importance of preserving such natural nursery grounds.

Foi analisada a estrutura da comunidade de peixes da zona de arrebentação da praia de Jaguaribe, localizada na Ilha de Itamaracá, estado de Pernambuco, situado no nordeste do Brasil. As coletas foram mensais, entre março de 2006 e fevereiro de 2007, nas luas nova e crescente e nos períodos diurno e noturno. O aparelho utilizado foi uma rede de arrasto do tipo picaré, com dimensões de 20 m de comprimento por 1,5 m de altura e 5 mm de malhas entrenós. Foram coletados 6.407 exemplares pertencentes a 35 famílias e 92 espécies. As espécies Anchoviella lepidentostole; Bairdiella ronchus; Lycengraulis grossidens; Polydactylus virginicus;Larimus breviceps; Anchoa tricolor; Chirocentrodon bleekerianus; Pomadasys…

Advisors/Committee Members: Ana Carla Asfora El-Deir, Maria Elisabeth de Araújo, Antônio Lemos Vasconcelos Filho, Paulo Guilherme de Oliveira, Paulo Eurico Pires Ferreira Travassos, William Severi.

Subjects/Keywords: Zona de Arrebentação; Uctiofauna; Peixes; RECURSOS PESQUEIROS E ENGENHARIA DE PESCA; Praia de Jaguaribe; Ichthyofauna; Surf zone; Fish assemblage

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Santana, F. M. d. S. (2009). Ictiofauna da Zona de Arrebentação da Praia de Jaguaribe, Itamaracá, Pernambuco : composição, abundância e distribuição mensal. (Thesis). Universidade Federal Rural de Pernambuco. Retrieved from http://200.17.137.108/tde_busca/arquivo.php?codArquivo=261

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Santana, Fábio Magno da Silva. “Ictiofauna da Zona de Arrebentação da Praia de Jaguaribe, Itamaracá, Pernambuco : composição, abundância e distribuição mensal.” 2009. Thesis, Universidade Federal Rural de Pernambuco. Accessed January 19, 2021. http://200.17.137.108/tde_busca/arquivo.php?codArquivo=261.

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Santana, Fábio Magno da Silva. “Ictiofauna da Zona de Arrebentação da Praia de Jaguaribe, Itamaracá, Pernambuco : composição, abundância e distribuição mensal.” 2009. Web. 19 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Santana FMdS. Ictiofauna da Zona de Arrebentação da Praia de Jaguaribe, Itamaracá, Pernambuco : composição, abundância e distribuição mensal. [Internet] [Thesis]. Universidade Federal Rural de Pernambuco; 2009. [cited 2021 Jan 19]. Available from: http://200.17.137.108/tde_busca/arquivo.php?codArquivo=261.

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Council of Science Editors:

Santana FMdS. Ictiofauna da Zona de Arrebentação da Praia de Jaguaribe, Itamaracá, Pernambuco : composição, abundância e distribuição mensal. [Thesis]. Universidade Federal Rural de Pernambuco; 2009. Available from: http://200.17.137.108/tde_busca/arquivo.php?codArquivo=261

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

21. Fábio Magno da Silva Santana. Ictiofauna da Zona de Arrebentação da Praia de Jaguaribe, Itamaracá, Pernambuco : composição, abundância e distribuição mensal.

Degree: 2009, Universidade Federal Rural de Pernambuco

URL: http://200.17.137.108/tde_busca/arquivo.php?codArquivo=261

►

Foi analisada a estrutura da comunidade de peixes da zona de arrebentação da praia de Jaguaribe, localizada na Ilha de Itamaracá, estado de Pernambuco, situado… (more)

▼

Foi analisada a estrutura da comunidade de peixes da zona de arrebentação da praia de Jaguaribe, localizada na Ilha de Itamaracá, estado de Pernambuco, situado no nordeste do Brasil. As coletas foram mensais, entre março de 2006 e fevereiro de 2007, nas luas nova e crescente e nos períodos diurno e noturno. O aparelho utilizado foi uma rede de arrasto do tipo picaré, com dimensões de 20 m de comprimento por 1,5 m de altura e 5 mm de malhas entrenós. Foram coletados 6.407 exemplares pertencentes a 35 famílias e 92 espécies. As espécies Anchoviella lepidentostole; Bairdiella ronchus; Lycengraulis grossidens; Polydactylus virginicus;Larimus breviceps; Anchoa tricolor; Chirocentrodon bleekerianus; Pomadasys corvinaeformis; Stellifer stellifer; Stellifer rastrifer; Lile piquitinga; Conodon nobilis; Menticirrhus americanus; Pellona harroweri e Anchoa marinii foram as mais abundantes numericamente, representando 90,65% do total de espécimes capturados, sendo 9,35% distribuídos entre as 77 espécies restantes. Não houve diferença significativa entre os meses e as luas, mas o período diurno foi mais abundante que o noturno. A zona de arrebentação da praia de Jaguaribe é dominada por um grupo de seis espécies (A. tricolor, A. lepidentostole, B. ronchus, L. breviceps, L. grossidens e P. virginicus) que ocorrem de modo frequente e abundante durante todo o ano. Esta zona de arrebentação apresentou uma ictiofauna rica e com uma alta diversidade de espécies na maioria dos meses, sendo que quase metade delas apresenta alguma importância pesqueira na região. A maioria das espécies que frequentam esta área é representada por juvenis e exemplares de pequeno porte, o que demonstra ser este local berçário para muitas espécies que o frequentam durante o seu ciclo de vida. A proximidade com o estuário do rio Jaguaribe pode ser responsável pelo número elevado de espécies que ocorrem nestes locais, sendo interessante um estudo que avalie a conectividade entre estes habitats. Finalmente, este grande número de espécies que frequentam estes locais e a predominância de jovens permite ressaltar a importância do ambiente de praia para o seu ciclo vital e a manutenção de seus estoques populacionais. Sendo assim, uma maior atenção e cuidado devem ser dados a estes ambientes, bem como a criação de políticas públicas voltadas à educação ambiental, que visem a conscientização da população residente e visitante sobre a importância da preservação destes berçários naturais.

The fish assemblage structure of the Jaguaribe surfzone, located in the Island of Itamaracá, state of Pernambuco, northeastern Brazil, was analyzed. Samples were collected monthly, from March 2006 until February 2007, in the New and First Quarter moon cycles, during night and day periods. The equipment used for collecting the samples was a beach seine net, 20 m long, 1,5 m high and 5 mm mesh size. A total of 6,407 individuals, belonging to 35 families and 92 species, was collected. Anchoviella lepidentostole;Bairdiella ronchus; Lycengraulis grossidens;Polydactylus virginicus; Larimus…

Advisors/Committee Members: Paulo Eurico Pires Ferreira Travassos, Ana Carla Asfora El-Deir, William Severi, Antônio Lemos Vasconcelos Filho, Maria Elisabeth de Araújo, Paulo Guilherme de Oliveira.

Subjects/Keywords: Surf zone; Peixes; RECURSOS PESQUEIROS E ENGENHARIA DE PESCA; Ichthyofauna; Uctiofauna; Praia de Jaguaribe; Zona de Arrebentação; Fish assemblage

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Santana, F. M. d. S. (2009). Ictiofauna da Zona de Arrebentação da Praia de Jaguaribe, Itamaracá, Pernambuco : composição, abundância e distribuição mensal. (Thesis). Universidade Federal Rural de Pernambuco. Retrieved from http://200.17.137.108/tde_busca/arquivo.php?codArquivo=261

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Santana, Fábio Magno da Silva. “Ictiofauna da Zona de Arrebentação da Praia de Jaguaribe, Itamaracá, Pernambuco : composição, abundância e distribuição mensal.” 2009. Thesis, Universidade Federal Rural de Pernambuco. Accessed January 19, 2021. http://200.17.137.108/tde_busca/arquivo.php?codArquivo=261.

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Santana, Fábio Magno da Silva. “Ictiofauna da Zona de Arrebentação da Praia de Jaguaribe, Itamaracá, Pernambuco : composição, abundância e distribuição mensal.” 2009. Web. 19 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Santana FMdS. Ictiofauna da Zona de Arrebentação da Praia de Jaguaribe, Itamaracá, Pernambuco : composição, abundância e distribuição mensal. [Internet] [Thesis]. Universidade Federal Rural de Pernambuco; 2009. [cited 2021 Jan 19]. Available from: http://200.17.137.108/tde_busca/arquivo.php?codArquivo=261.

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Council of Science Editors:

Santana FMdS. Ictiofauna da Zona de Arrebentação da Praia de Jaguaribe, Itamaracá, Pernambuco : composição, abundância e distribuição mensal. [Thesis]. Universidade Federal Rural de Pernambuco; 2009. Available from: http://200.17.137.108/tde_busca/arquivo.php?codArquivo=261

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

22. Thomas, K V. Beach Surf Zone Morphodynamics along a Wave Dominated Coast.

Degree: 1990, Cochin University of Science and Technology

URL: http://hdl.handle.net/purl/1859

Subjects/Keywords: Beach Surf Zone; Morphodynamics; Wave Dominated Coast

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Thomas, K. V. (1990). Beach Surf Zone Morphodynamics along a Wave Dominated Coast. (Thesis). Cochin University of Science and Technology. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/purl/1859

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Thomas, K V. “Beach Surf Zone Morphodynamics along a Wave Dominated Coast.” 1990. Thesis, Cochin University of Science and Technology. Accessed January 19, 2021. http://hdl.handle.net/purl/1859.

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Thomas, K V. “Beach Surf Zone Morphodynamics along a Wave Dominated Coast.” 1990. Web. 19 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Thomas KV. Beach Surf Zone Morphodynamics along a Wave Dominated Coast. [Internet] [Thesis]. Cochin University of Science and Technology; 1990. [cited 2021 Jan 19]. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/purl/1859.

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Council of Science Editors:

Thomas KV. Beach Surf Zone Morphodynamics along a Wave Dominated Coast. [Thesis]. Cochin University of Science and Technology; 1990. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/purl/1859

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

23. Favero, Jana Menegassi Del. Ictiofauna de ambientes praiais da barra sul do sistema costeiro Cananéia-Iguape, São Paulo.

Degree: Mestrado, Oceanografia Biológica, 2011, University of São Paulo

URL: http://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/21/21131/tde-27072011-151520/ ;

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O objetivo deste estudo foi analisar as variações de curta e longa escala temporal na composição e na estrutura da ictiofauna de ambientes praiais e… (more)

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O objetivo deste estudo foi analisar as variações de curta e longa escala temporal na composição e na estrutura da ictiofauna de ambientes praiais e entender os padrões de recrutamento das principais espécies. Seis praias do sistema costeiro Cananéia-Iguape foram amostradas com uma rede de picaré. As amostragens foram realizadas mensalmente de dezembro de 2008 a janeiro de 2010 para as análises de longa escala e a cada dois dias durante um mês de verão para as análises de curto tempo. Independente do foco na variabilidade de curta ou de longa escala, muitas das características da comunidade de peixes permaneceram as mesmas: a predominância de exemplares juvenis, a presença de poucas espécies dominantes e constantes, a alta abundância de Trachinotus e Mugil, e as variações dos índices ecológicos em cada praia ou maré estudada. A influência da temperatura na estrutura da comunidade foi significativa nos estudos de longa escala, mostrando a importância das variações sazonais e do recrutamento nos padrões da comunidade. Juvenis de T. carolinus recrutam ao longo do ano, enquanto T. goodei e Menticirrhus littoralis foram recrutados durante a primavera. M. curema e M. hospes recrutaram durante o verão, enquanto M. liza foi recrutou durante o inverno. Este estudo ressaltou a importância ecológica e econômica da zona rasa de ambientes praias, pois muitas das espécies analisadas na área são importantes recursos pesqueiros para a região.

The aim of this study was to analyze short and long-term temporal variations in ichthyofauna composition and structure from sandy beaches and to understand recruitment patterns of the main species. Six beaches of the coastal system Cananéia-Iguape were sampled using a beach seine. The samples were conducted monthly from December 2008 to January 2010 for a long-term analysis, or every other day during a summer month, for a short-term analysis. Regardless the focus in short or long-term variability, most characteristics of the fish community remained the same: the juvenile fish\'s predominance, the presence few dominant and constant species, the high Trachinotus and Mugil abundance, and the variation of the ecological indexes on each beach and tide studied. The influence of the temperature in the community structure was significant only in the long-term study, showing the seasonal variation and the recruitment importance on the community patterns. T. carolinus juvenilesŕecruit all over the year, while T. goodei and Menticirrhus littoralis recruit during spring. M. curema and M. hospes recruit during summer, while M. liza recruit during winter. The present study highlighted the ecological and economic importance of sandy beach shallow zone, as many species analyzed are regional important fishery resources.

Advisors/Committee Members: Dias, June Ferraz.

Subjects/Keywords: costal system Cananéia-Iguape; environmental variables.; fatores ambientais.; ichthyofauna; ictiofauna; recruitment; recrutamento; sistema costeiro Cananéia-Iguape; surf zone; zona de surfe

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Favero, J. M. D. (2011). Ictiofauna de ambientes praiais da barra sul do sistema costeiro Cananéia-Iguape, São Paulo. (Masters Thesis). University of São Paulo. Retrieved from http://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/21/21131/tde-27072011-151520/ ;

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Favero, Jana Menegassi Del. “Ictiofauna de ambientes praiais da barra sul do sistema costeiro Cananéia-Iguape, São Paulo.” 2011. Masters Thesis, University of São Paulo. Accessed January 19, 2021. http://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/21/21131/tde-27072011-151520/ ;.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Favero, Jana Menegassi Del. “Ictiofauna de ambientes praiais da barra sul do sistema costeiro Cananéia-Iguape, São Paulo.” 2011. Web. 19 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Favero JMD. Ictiofauna de ambientes praiais da barra sul do sistema costeiro Cananéia-Iguape, São Paulo. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. University of São Paulo; 2011. [cited 2021 Jan 19]. Available from: http://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/21/21131/tde-27072011-151520/ ;.

Council of Science Editors:

Favero JMD. Ictiofauna de ambientes praiais da barra sul do sistema costeiro Cananéia-Iguape, São Paulo. [Masters Thesis]. University of São Paulo; 2011. Available from: http://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/21/21131/tde-27072011-151520/ ;

24. Δημακόπουλος, Άγγελος. Αριθμητική προσομοίωση της τρισδιάστατης τυρβώδους ροής θραυομένων κυμάτων στην παράκτια ζώνη απόσβεσης.

Degree: 2009, University of Patras

URL: http://nemertes.lis.upatras.gr/jspui/handle/10889/3425

►

Στην παρούσα διατριβή παρουσιάζεται η αριθμητική μέθοδος προσομοίωσης μεγάλων κυμάτων (LWS), για τη μελέτη της τυρβώδους ροής που αναπτύσσεται κατά τη θραύση κυμάτων (θραύση εκχείλισης)… (more)

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Στην παρούσα διατριβή παρουσιάζεται η αριθμητική μέθοδος προσομοίωσης μεγάλων κυμάτων (LWS), για τη μελέτη της τυρβώδους ροής που αναπτύσσεται κατά τη θραύση κυμάτων (θραύση εκχείλισης) πάνω από πυθμένα σταθερής κλίσης. Κατά τη μέθοδο LWS, οι μεγάλες κλίμακες των τυρβωδών διακυμάνσεων της ταχύτητας και της ελεύθερης επιφάνειας επιλύονται αριθμητικά, ενώ η επίδραση των μικρών κλιμάκων λαμβάνεται υπόψη με τη χρήση υποπλεγματικού (subgrid scale ή SGS) μοντέλου τάσεων, αντίστοιχο της μεθόδου προσομοίωσης μεγάλων δινών LES. Η θραύση εκχείλισης προσομοιώνεται από τη δράση των SGS τάσεων, οι οποίες δημιουργούν το στρόβιλο θραύσης και παράγουν εγκάρσια στροβιλότητα στο μέτωπο του κύματος. Η μέθοδος LWS εφαρμόζεται σε σύζευξη με τις εξισώσεις Euler και των αντιστοίχων μη-γραμμικών οριακών συνθηκών. Επιπλέον, ως σημείο αναφοράς χρησιμοποιείται η προσομοίωση της θραύσης εκχείλισης με μοντέλο επιφανειακού στροβίλου, κατά το οποίο η επίδραση του στροβίλου θραύσης υπολογίζεται εμπειρικά. Το μοντέλο προσαρμόζεται στις εξισώσεις δισδιάστατης μη συνεκτικής ροής, με τη χρήση κατάλληλα τροποποιημένων οριακών συνθηκών. Παρουσιάζονται αποτελέσματα δισδιάστατης ροής, κατά τη θραύση κύματος κάθετα στην ακτογραμμή, και τρισδιάστατης ροής, κατά τη θραύση κύματος κάθετα και υπό γωνία ως προς την ακτογραμμή. Γενικά, τα αποτελέσματα της ελεύθερης επιφάνειας και του πεδίου ταχυτήτων στη ζώνη απόσβεσης, κατά την θραύση κυμάτων κάθετα στην ακτογραμμή και πάνω από πυθμένα κλίσης 1/35, δείχνουν ικανοποιητική συμφωνία με τις αντίστοιχες πειραματικές μετρήσεις. Ωστόσο, παρά την ασθενή μεταβολή της ροής εγκάρσια στην ακτογραμμή, παρατηρείται ότι, λόγω της τρισδιάστατης δομής του στροβίλου, ο μηχανισμός της θραύσης προσομοιώνεται ικανοποιητικότερα από τη μέθοδο LWS, όταν αυτή συνδυάζεται με τρισδιάστατο πεδίο ροής. Τέλος, εξετάζεται η διάδοση και η θραύση κυμάτων πάνω από πυθμένα σταθερής κλίσης 1/35, τα οποία προσπίπτουν στην ακτογραμμή υπό γωνία 42,45 μοιρών σε μεγάλο βάθος. Οι κορυφογραμμές του κύματος θραύονται σταδιακά και η δράση των SGS τάσεων παράγει εγκάρσια και διαμήκη στροβιλότητα. Ο στρόβιλος θραύσης αναπτύσσεται κατά μήκος των θραυομένων κορυφογραμμών, με γωνία προσανατολισμού αντίστοιχη της γωνίας πρόσπτωσης κύματος στη γραμμή θραύσης.

A method named Large Wave Simulation is presented, for the study of turbulent flow that develops during wave breaking (spilling breakers) over a constant-slope bed. According to LWS method, large scales of velocity field and free-surface elevation are numerically resolved, whereas the corresponding subgrid scale (SGS) effects are accounted for by a SGS stress model, equivalent to the ones used in Large Eddy Simulation (LES) method. Spilling breaking is simulated by a SGS stress field that creates an eddy breaker and produces spanwise vorticity at the breaking wave front. LWS method is used in conjuction with the Euler equation and the corresponding nonlinear boundary conditions. Moreover, as a reference, a surface roller (SR) model is used for the simulation of spilling breaking, which necessitates…

Advisors/Committee Members: Αθανάσιος, Δήμας, Dimakopoulos, Aggelos, Δήμας, Αθανάσιος, Δημητρακόπουλος, Αλέξανδρος, Χορς, Γεώργιος, Αθανασούλης, Γεράσιμος, Καλλιντέρης, Ιωάννης, Κρεστενίτης, Ιωάννης, Μουτζόυρης, Κωνσταντίνος.

Subjects/Keywords: Θραύση κυμάτων; Αριθμητική προσομοίωση; Τρισδιάστατη ροή; Παράκτια ζώνη; 627.042; Wave breaking; Numerical simulation; LES; 3d flow; Surf-zone

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Δημακόπουλος, �. (2009). Αριθμητική προσομοίωση της τρισδιάστατης τυρβώδους ροής θραυομένων κυμάτων στην παράκτια ζώνη απόσβεσης. (Doctoral Dissertation). University of Patras. Retrieved from http://nemertes.lis.upatras.gr/jspui/handle/10889/3425

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Δημακόπουλος, Άγγελος. “Αριθμητική προσομοίωση της τρισδιάστατης τυρβώδους ροής θραυομένων κυμάτων στην παράκτια ζώνη απόσβεσης.” 2009. Doctoral Dissertation, University of Patras. Accessed January 19, 2021. http://nemertes.lis.upatras.gr/jspui/handle/10889/3425.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Δημακόπουλος, Άγγελος. “Αριθμητική προσομοίωση της τρισδιάστατης τυρβώδους ροής θραυομένων κυμάτων στην παράκτια ζώνη απόσβεσης.” 2009. Web. 19 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Δημακόπουλος �. Αριθμητική προσομοίωση της τρισδιάστατης τυρβώδους ροής θραυομένων κυμάτων στην παράκτια ζώνη απόσβεσης. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. University of Patras; 2009. [cited 2021 Jan 19]. Available from: http://nemertes.lis.upatras.gr/jspui/handle/10889/3425.

Council of Science Editors:

Δημακόπουλος �. Αριθμητική προσομοίωση της τρισδιάστατης τυρβώδους ροής θραυομένων κυμάτων στην παράκτια ζώνη απόσβεσης. [Doctoral Dissertation]. University of Patras; 2009. Available from: http://nemertes.lis.upatras.gr/jspui/handle/10889/3425

University of Delaware

25. Chardon-Maldonado, Patricia. Inner-surf and swash-zone hydrodynamics and sediment transport processes during accretive conditions and local wind forcing.

Degree: PhD, University of Delaware, Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, 2016, University of Delaware

URL: http://udspace.udel.edu/handle/19716/21490

► The inner surf and swash zones are highly dynamic regions of the nearshore zone, characterized by unsteady, turbulent, sediment- and bubble-laden flows. Hydrodynamic and sediment… (more)

▼ The inner surf and swash zones are highly dynamic regions of the nearshore zone, characterized by unsteady, turbulent, sediment- and bubble-laden flows. Hydrodynamic and sediment transport processes occurring in these zones control sand exchange between the surf zone and foreshore, leading to foreshore morphological variation. Increased scientific interest and technological advances have contributed to the more recent advances in understanding of inner-surf and swash-zone processes. However, there is still the need of near-bed measurements of hydrodynamic and sediment transport to identify the role that small-scale inner-surf and swash-zone processes have on the beach during storm beach recovery (accretive conditions) and mesoscale meteorological phenomena (wind forcing mechanism). Therefore, two field-based studies were conducted to acquire detailed observations to address these needs. First, a field experiment was conducted on a steep sloping beach at South Bethany Beach, Delaware, USA in an attempt to quantify the foreshore morphological change during post-storm recovery. Near-bed, highly resolved hydrodynamic and sediment concentration measurements were collected at five cross-shore locations across the foreshore. Suspended sediment transport rates were estimated using instantaneous measurements of flow velocity and suspended sediment concentrations. A spatial and temporal variation of suspended sediment transport rates across the foreshore was identified. The larger transport events resulted from flow interactions that localized suspension and advection of sediment from the point of bore collapse and deposited landward (mostly by the cross-shore component). Net sediment transport and the associated foreshore morphological change were quantified via cross-shore suspended sediment transport rate gradients and an energetics-based suspended sediment transport model. Net suspended sediment transport rate gradient estimates exceeded by two orders of magnitude the net transport quantified via bathymetric difference over each tidal cycle, highlighting the difficulty of predicting transport processes even under weak accretion conditions. This discrepancy implies that all potential mechanisms that enhance sediment transport (e.g. turbulence generated by swash bores, sediment advection) and complete measurements for the full flow duration and throughout the water column are needed to improve sediment transport rate estimates in the inner-surf and swash zone. However, these analyses served to relate the small-scale processes to large temporal and spatial scale accretive patterns. ☐ A second field study was conducted on a microtidal, low wave energy, sea breeze dominated sandy beach in Sisal, Yucatán, Mexico to investigate the effects of local (land/sea breeze) and synoptic (Norte) scale meteorological events on inner-surf and swash-zone dynamics. Flow velocities and suspended sediment concentrations were measured concurrently at three cross-shore locations. The high-resolution data allowed the quantification of bed shear… Advisors/Committee Members: Puleo, Jack.

Subjects/Keywords: Applied sciences; Earth sciences; Inner-surf dynamics; Mesoscale meteorological phenomena; Morphodynamics; Sediment transport; Swash-zone dynamics; Wind forcing

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Chardon-Maldonado, P. (2016). Inner-surf and swash-zone hydrodynamics and sediment transport processes during accretive conditions and local wind forcing. (Doctoral Dissertation). University of Delaware. Retrieved from http://udspace.udel.edu/handle/19716/21490

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Chardon-Maldonado, Patricia. “Inner-surf and swash-zone hydrodynamics and sediment transport processes during accretive conditions and local wind forcing.” 2016. Doctoral Dissertation, University of Delaware. Accessed January 19, 2021. http://udspace.udel.edu/handle/19716/21490.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Chardon-Maldonado, Patricia. “Inner-surf and swash-zone hydrodynamics and sediment transport processes during accretive conditions and local wind forcing.” 2016. Web. 19 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Chardon-Maldonado P. Inner-surf and swash-zone hydrodynamics and sediment transport processes during accretive conditions and local wind forcing. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. University of Delaware; 2016. [cited 2021 Jan 19]. Available from: http://udspace.udel.edu/handle/19716/21490.

Council of Science Editors:

Chardon-Maldonado P. Inner-surf and swash-zone hydrodynamics and sediment transport processes during accretive conditions and local wind forcing. [Doctoral Dissertation]. University of Delaware; 2016. Available from: http://udspace.udel.edu/handle/19716/21490

University of Washington

26. Carini, Roxanne J. Geometry, Kinematics & Energetics of Surf Zone Waves Near the Onset of Breaking Using Remote Sensing.

Degree: PhD, 2019, University of Washington

URL: http://hdl.handle.net/1773/43651

► The surf zone is the shallow nearshore region where waves break due to depth-limitations. These breaking waves drive important nearshore processes, including alongshore and cross-shore… (more)

▼ The surf zone is the shallow nearshore region where waves break due to depth-limitations. These breaking waves drive important nearshore processes, including alongshore and cross-shore circulation, sediment transport, and air-sea gas and particle exchange. Measuring and modeling such processes to gain better physical understanding of surf zone dynamics and predict future coastal change is of great interest to the scientific community, as well as to the global community that relies on the coastal region and resources for security, economic stability, and recreation. Wave breaking in the surf zone is effected by bathymetry changes, currents, tides and weather, all of which result in strong spatial and temporal gradients and pose a challenge to measuring and modeling wave breaking. In this thesis, thermal infrared imagery and line-scanning LIDAR are used to measure surf zone waves near the onset of breaking. These remote sensing methods provide broad spatial coverage and high spatio-temporal resolution, which enable investigation of breaking parameters and wave energy dissipation at the onset of breaking, a time of rapid wave change that has been prohibitively challenging to accurately measure in the field. Over 4200 waves are analyzed from data collected at the USACE Field Research Facility in Duck, NC, including over 2600 non-breaking waves, 414 spilling breakers, 110 plunging breakers, and 1139 breakers whose initial type could not be determined. Wave height is measured using a spatio-temporal method for wave tracking that preserves the true sea surface elevation maximum and is robust to instances when the wave trough is beyond the field of view of the LIDAR transect. Methods for estimating instantaneous wave speed are refined by fitting a skewed-Gaussian function to each wave profile and tracking the fitted wave form peak. Wave slope was estimated using a variety of fitting methods to the upper 20%, 50%, and 80% of the wave face. A linear fit to the upper 80% of the wave face provides the strongest correlation with geometric wave slope defined relative to mean sea level, and the maximum wave face slope achieved by the skewed-Gaussian fitted wave form is most robust to the wave shape changes near the onset of breaking. At the onset of spilling and plunging, critical breaking predictors are examined on a wave-by-wave basis. We find that γ, the ratio of wave height to water depth, peaks near the onset of breaking (0.7<γ_b<0.8 for plunging and 0.6<γ_b<0.7 for spilling) at values consistent with solitary wave theory (γ_sol=0.78) and critical γ_rms values previously observed at Duck and other beaches. Direct estimates of wave face slope and wave phase speed also peak at the onset of breaking. Wave face slope and γ are positively correlated and, when used together, strongly predict breaking and breaker type. A support-vector machine model is successfully used to identify or define the transition from non-breaking to breaking and from spilling to plunging. Finally, traditionally estimated wave energy flux gradients are… Advisors/Committee Members: Chickadel, Chris (advisor), Jessup, Andy (advisor).

Subjects/Keywords: breaking waves; infrared imagery; LIDAR; surf zone; wave energy dissipation rate; Physical oceanography; Remote sensing; Civil engineering; Civil engineering

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Carini, R. J. (2019). Geometry, Kinematics & Energetics of Surf Zone Waves Near the Onset of Breaking Using Remote Sensing. (Doctoral Dissertation). University of Washington. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/1773/43651

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Carini, Roxanne J. “Geometry, Kinematics & Energetics of Surf Zone Waves Near the Onset of Breaking Using Remote Sensing.” 2019. Doctoral Dissertation, University of Washington. Accessed January 19, 2021. http://hdl.handle.net/1773/43651.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Carini, Roxanne J. “Geometry, Kinematics & Energetics of Surf Zone Waves Near the Onset of Breaking Using Remote Sensing.” 2019. Web. 19 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Carini RJ. Geometry, Kinematics & Energetics of Surf Zone Waves Near the Onset of Breaking Using Remote Sensing. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. University of Washington; 2019. [cited 2021 Jan 19]. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1773/43651.

Council of Science Editors:

Carini RJ. Geometry, Kinematics & Energetics of Surf Zone Waves Near the Onset of Breaking Using Remote Sensing. [Doctoral Dissertation]. University of Washington; 2019. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1773/43651

Delft University of Technology

27. Benit, M.P. (author). Formulation and Quantification of the Distributed Collinear Triad Approximation.

Degree: 2009, Delft University of Technology

URL: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:2d1720e2-f4ce-4c6b-8e3d-1bd7d9f7cfa1

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As waves enter the surf-zone, the wave spectra undergo drastic transformations because of depth-induced breaking and triad interactions. Any arbitrary spectrum will converge towards a… (more)

Subjects/Keywords: triad interactions; wind waves; surf zone; SWAN

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Benit, M. P. (. (2009). Formulation and Quantification of the Distributed Collinear Triad Approximation. (Masters Thesis). Delft University of Technology. Retrieved from http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:2d1720e2-f4ce-4c6b-8e3d-1bd7d9f7cfa1

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Benit, M P (author). “Formulation and Quantification of the Distributed Collinear Triad Approximation.” 2009. Masters Thesis, Delft University of Technology. Accessed January 19, 2021. http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:2d1720e2-f4ce-4c6b-8e3d-1bd7d9f7cfa1.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Benit, M P (author). “Formulation and Quantification of the Distributed Collinear Triad Approximation.” 2009. Web. 19 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Benit MP(. Formulation and Quantification of the Distributed Collinear Triad Approximation. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2009. [cited 2021 Jan 19]. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:2d1720e2-f4ce-4c6b-8e3d-1bd7d9f7cfa1.

Council of Science Editors:

Benit MP(. Formulation and Quantification of the Distributed Collinear Triad Approximation. [Masters Thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2009. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:2d1720e2-f4ce-4c6b-8e3d-1bd7d9f7cfa1

Delft University of Technology

28. Jacobs, R.P.M. (author). Non-Hydrostatic Computations of Nearshore Hydrodynamics.

Degree: 2010, Delft University of Technology

URL: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:8c863037-a490-4cf5-8253-11eef4d8892d

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The nearshore zone is an active zone that can be quite inhospitable to humans due to violent wave breaking and strong rip currents. Rip currents… (more)

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The nearshore zone is an active zone that can be quite inhospitable to humans due to violent wave breaking and strong rip currents. Rip currents are shore normal jet-like currents that typically extend from near the shoreline out past the line of breaking waves. Observations have concluded that a rip current system generally consists of 4 parts. Part 1 is the shoreward mass transport due to the waves carrying water through the breaker zone in the direction of wave propagation. Part 2 is the movement of this water mass parallel to the coast known as a longshore current. Part 3 is the rip current itself, a seaward flow of water through a narrow rip channel. And part 4 is an alongshore movement outside the breaker zone of the expanding rip head. With the use of the numerical model XBeach, in which a non-hydrostatic model based upon the numerical scheme as developed by Stelling and Zijlema (2003)was implemented, the fluid motions in the nearshore zone are simulated. The method of Stelling and Zijlema utilizes an edge based compact difference scheme for the approximation of the vertical gradient of the non-hydrostatic pressure. This ensures accurate wave breaking and dispersion characteristics, which is important for an accurate simulation of the nearshore hydrodynamics. Two test cases are used to verify the model for replication of the hydrodynamics in the nearshore zone. The first case consists of irregular wave breaking in a laboratory barred surf zone. The second case is a wave induced and bathymetry driven rip current in a directional wave basin. The numerical model is further developed with the addition of an eddy viscosity model and a non-reflecting boundary condition. With these additions the depth averaged model gave very satisfactorily results for both cases. The XBeach model is an accurate and efficient simulation package for the dynamics in the nearshore zone. This study shows that application to real world situations should give realistic and accurate results. Therefore the model could be applied in coastal engineering applications and in the research for energy extraction methods from wave induced currents.

Environmental Fluid Dynamics

Hydraulic Engineering

Civil Engineering and Geosciences

Advisors/Committee Members: Stelling, G.S. (mentor).

Subjects/Keywords: Non-hydrostatic pressure; Rip currents; Breaking waves; Surf zone

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Jacobs, R. P. M. (. (2010). Non-Hydrostatic Computations of Nearshore Hydrodynamics. (Masters Thesis). Delft University of Technology. Retrieved from http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:8c863037-a490-4cf5-8253-11eef4d8892d

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Jacobs, R P M (author). “Non-Hydrostatic Computations of Nearshore Hydrodynamics.” 2010. Masters Thesis, Delft University of Technology. Accessed January 19, 2021. http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:8c863037-a490-4cf5-8253-11eef4d8892d.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Jacobs, R P M (author). “Non-Hydrostatic Computations of Nearshore Hydrodynamics.” 2010. Web. 19 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Jacobs RPM(. Non-Hydrostatic Computations of Nearshore Hydrodynamics. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2010. [cited 2021 Jan 19]. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:8c863037-a490-4cf5-8253-11eef4d8892d.

Council of Science Editors:

Jacobs RPM(. Non-Hydrostatic Computations of Nearshore Hydrodynamics. [Masters Thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2010. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:8c863037-a490-4cf5-8253-11eef4d8892d

Delft University of Technology

29. Walstra, D.J. (author). The influence of breaking waves on the vertical velocity distribution in the surf zone.

Degree: 1994, Delft University of Technology

URL: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:27b9df2f-9e44-4e36-90f8-1e8634453ac5

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In this report we describe the development and calibration of a model which predicts the vertical distribution of the horizontal velocities induced by waves, the… (more)

Subjects/Keywords: surf zone; breaking waves; velocitiy distribution; undertow

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Walstra, D. J. (. (1994). The influence of breaking waves on the vertical velocity distribution in the surf zone. (Masters Thesis). Delft University of Technology. Retrieved from http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:27b9df2f-9e44-4e36-90f8-1e8634453ac5

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Walstra, D J (author). “The influence of breaking waves on the vertical velocity distribution in the surf zone.” 1994. Masters Thesis, Delft University of Technology. Accessed January 19, 2021. http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:27b9df2f-9e44-4e36-90f8-1e8634453ac5.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Walstra, D J (author). “The influence of breaking waves on the vertical velocity distribution in the surf zone.” 1994. Web. 19 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Walstra DJ(. The influence of breaking waves on the vertical velocity distribution in the surf zone. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 1994. [cited 2021 Jan 19]. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:27b9df2f-9e44-4e36-90f8-1e8634453ac5.

Council of Science Editors:

Walstra DJ(. The influence of breaking waves on the vertical velocity distribution in the surf zone. [Masters Thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 1994. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:27b9df2f-9e44-4e36-90f8-1e8634453ac5

University of Washington

30. Kastner, Sam. The fate and dynamics of a river plume in the surf zone.

Degree: PhD, 2020, University of Washington

URL: http://hdl.handle.net/1773/46421

► Small river outflows that directly enter the surf zone,where waves break near the shore, are a common feature of the world's coastlines. Rivers transport sediment,… (more)

Subjects/Keywords: Coastal oceanography; Hydrodynamics; Mixing; Quinault; River plume; Surf zone; Physical oceanography; Ocean engineering; Hydrologic sciences; Civil engineering

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Kastner, S. (2020). The fate and dynamics of a river plume in the surf zone. (Doctoral Dissertation). University of Washington. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/1773/46421

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Kastner, Sam. “The fate and dynamics of a river plume in the surf zone.” 2020. Doctoral Dissertation, University of Washington. Accessed January 19, 2021. http://hdl.handle.net/1773/46421.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Kastner, Sam. “The fate and dynamics of a river plume in the surf zone.” 2020. Web. 19 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Kastner S. The fate and dynamics of a river plume in the surf zone. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. University of Washington; 2020. [cited 2021 Jan 19]. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1773/46421.

Council of Science Editors:

Kastner S. The fate and dynamics of a river plume in the surf zone. [Doctoral Dissertation]. University of Washington; 2020. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1773/46421

Open Access Theses and Dissertations