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Delft University of Technology
1.
Onnink, C.J. (author).
Dynamic shoreline response to a shallow concentrated nearshore berm nourishment.
Degree: 2020, Delft University of Technology
URL: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:b4d73a8e-a22a-48b9-b4bb-784e516f9314
► Worldwide, coastal regions are pressured due to sea-level rise and the increased likelihood of extreme events. Traditionally, hard engineering techniques were used for shoreline protection.…
(more)
▼ Worldwide, coastal regions are pressured due to sea-level rise and the increased likelihood of extreme events. Traditionally, hard engineering techniques were used for shoreline protection. However, due to the negative side effects at adjacent beaches, a switch was made to more sustainable soft solutions, such as
nearshore berm nourishments. Although several manuals are available describing the preliminary design of
nearshore berm nourishments, most of them are based on expert judgment and not on quantitative predictions, which potentially leads to design flaws and, therefore, to unnecessary costs. To overcome this problem, this research aims to increase the understanding of the development of
nearshore berm nourishments in relation with the corresponding shoreline evolution by analyzing a shallow concentrated placement at New Smyrna Beach. It is found that the theoretical Feeder and Leeside effects played an important role in shoreline dynamics. The Feeding effect is characterized by shoreward propagating accretionary waves (SPAWs) while the Leeside effect is depicted by shoreline erosion patters downdrift of the nourishment induced shadow zone. Contrary to most
nearshore berm nourishments, the placement at New Smyrna Beach resulted in a significant increase of 45.000 m2 of the sub-aerial beach. Although not validated in this study, it is hypothesized to be a result of the high cross-shore density of the nourishment, ¼ 875 m3/m, and shallow placement location of 4-5 meters.
Advisors/Committee Members: de Schipper, M.A. (mentor), Aarninkhof, S.G.J. (graduation committee), Hopkins, J.A. (graduation committee), Voorendt, M.Z. (graduation committee), Delft University of Technology (degree granting institution).
Subjects/Keywords: Coastal; Nearshore berm; nourishment
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APA ·
Chicago ·
MLA ·
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APA (6th Edition):
Onnink, C. J. (. (2020). Dynamic shoreline response to a shallow concentrated nearshore berm nourishment. (Masters Thesis). Delft University of Technology. Retrieved from http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:b4d73a8e-a22a-48b9-b4bb-784e516f9314
Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):
Onnink, C J (author). “Dynamic shoreline response to a shallow concentrated nearshore berm nourishment.” 2020. Masters Thesis, Delft University of Technology. Accessed March 05, 2021.
http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:b4d73a8e-a22a-48b9-b4bb-784e516f9314.
MLA Handbook (7th Edition):
Onnink, C J (author). “Dynamic shoreline response to a shallow concentrated nearshore berm nourishment.” 2020. Web. 05 Mar 2021.
Vancouver:
Onnink CJ(. Dynamic shoreline response to a shallow concentrated nearshore berm nourishment. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2020. [cited 2021 Mar 05].
Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:b4d73a8e-a22a-48b9-b4bb-784e516f9314.
Council of Science Editors:
Onnink CJ(. Dynamic shoreline response to a shallow concentrated nearshore berm nourishment. [Masters Thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2020. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:b4d73a8e-a22a-48b9-b4bb-784e516f9314

King Abdullah University of Science and Technology
2.
Mcivor, Ashlie.
Assessing sharks and rays in shallow coastal habitats using baited underwater video and aerial surveys in the Red Sea.
Degree: Biological and Environmental Sciences and Engineering (BESE) Division, 2020, King Abdullah University of Science and Technology
URL: http://hdl.handle.net/10754/662753
► Years of unregulated fishing activity have resulted in low abundances of elasmobranch species in the Saudi Arabian Red Sea. Coastal populations of sharks and rays…
(more)
▼ Years of unregulated fishing activity have resulted in low abundances of elasmobranch species in the Saudi Arabian Red Sea. Coastal populations of sharks and rays in the region remain largely understudied and may be at risk from large-scale coastal development projects. Here we aim to address this pressing need for information by using fish market, unmanned aerial vehicle and baited remote underwater video surveys to quantify the abundance and diversity of sharks and rays in coastal habitats in the Saudi Arabian central Red Sea. Our analysis showed that the majority of observed individuals were batoids, specifically blue-spotted ribbontail stingrays (Taeniura lymma) and reticulate whiprays (Himantura sp.). Aerial surveys observed a catch per unit effort two orders of magnitude greater than underwater video surveys, yet did not detect any shark species. In contrast, baited camera surveys observed both lemon sharks (Negaprion acutidens) and tawny nurse sharks (Nebrius ferrugineus), but in very low quantities (one individual of each species). The combination of survey techniques revealed a higher diversity of elasmobranch presence than using either method alone, however many species of elasmobranch known to exist in the Red Sea were not detected. Our results suggest that aerial surveys are a more accurate tool for elasmobranch abundance estimates in low densities over mangrove-associated habitats. The importance of inshore habitats, particularly for batoids, calls for a deeper understanding of habitat use in order to protect these environments in the face of unregulated fishing, mangrove removal, and anticipated developments along the coastline of the Saudi Arabian Red Sea.
Advisors/Committee Members: Berumen, Michael L. (advisor), Jones, Burton (committee member), Coker, Darren (committee member), Spaet , Julia (committee member).
Subjects/Keywords: Elasmobranch; BRUV; UAV; Nearshore; Surveys
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MLA ·
Vancouver ·
CSE |
Export
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APA (6th Edition):
Mcivor, A. (2020). Assessing sharks and rays in shallow coastal habitats using baited underwater video and aerial surveys in the Red Sea. (Thesis). King Abdullah University of Science and Technology. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/10754/662753
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation
Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):
Mcivor, Ashlie. “Assessing sharks and rays in shallow coastal habitats using baited underwater video and aerial surveys in the Red Sea.” 2020. Thesis, King Abdullah University of Science and Technology. Accessed March 05, 2021.
http://hdl.handle.net/10754/662753.
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation
MLA Handbook (7th Edition):
Mcivor, Ashlie. “Assessing sharks and rays in shallow coastal habitats using baited underwater video and aerial surveys in the Red Sea.” 2020. Web. 05 Mar 2021.
Vancouver:
Mcivor A. Assessing sharks and rays in shallow coastal habitats using baited underwater video and aerial surveys in the Red Sea. [Internet] [Thesis]. King Abdullah University of Science and Technology; 2020. [cited 2021 Mar 05].
Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/10754/662753.
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation
Council of Science Editors:
Mcivor A. Assessing sharks and rays in shallow coastal habitats using baited underwater video and aerial surveys in the Red Sea. [Thesis]. King Abdullah University of Science and Technology; 2020. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/10754/662753
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Oregon State University
3.
Splinter, Kristen D.
Development of 2D models to estimate nearshore bathymetry and sediment transport.
Degree: PhD, Oceanography, 2009, Oregon State University
URL: http://hdl.handle.net/1957/11751
► We examine the interactions and feedbacks between bathymetry, waves, currents, and sediment transport. The first two pro jects focus on the use of remote sensing…
(more)
▼ We examine the interactions and feedbacks between bathymetry, waves, currents, and
sediment transport. The first two pro jects focus on the use of remote sensing techniques
to expand our knowledge of the
nearshore. Due to the plethora of snap-shot data that is
available from satellites and their distribution via Google Earth, having a method that
can determine bathymetry from spatial wave patterns would be very valuable. Utilizing
remotely-sensed wave refraction patterns of
nearshore waves, we estimate bathymetry
gradients in the
nearshore through the 2D irrotationality of the wave number equation.
The model, discussed in Chapter 2, uses an augmented form of the refraction equation
that relates gradients in bathymetry to gradients in wavenumber and wave angle through
the chain rule. The equations are cast in a form that is independent of wave period,
so can be solved using wavenumber and direction data from a single snapshot rather
than the normally-required time series of images. Synthetic testing of the model using
monochromatic waves on three bathymetries of increasing complexity, showed that the
model accurately estimated 2D bathymetry gradients, hence bathymetry, with a mean
bias of 0.01 m and mean root mean square error over the three beaches of 0.17 m for
depths less than 5 m. While the model is not useful for cases of complex seas or small
refraction signals, the simplified data requirement of only a single snapshot is attractive.
The model is perhaps best suited for shorter period swell conditions (wave periods of 8-10
seconds), for example, where strong refraction patterns are visible and wave number, k,
and wave angle, θ, are easily extracted from a single frame image.
Secondly, remotely sensed images of wave breaking over complex bathymetry are used
to study the nonlinear feedbacks between two-dimensional (horizontal), 2DH, morphol-
ogy and cross-shore migration rates of the alongshore averaged bar. We first test a linear
model on a subset of 4 years of data at Palm Beach, Australia. The results are discussed
in Chapter 3. The model requires eight free parameters, solved for using linear regression
of the data to model the relationship between alongshore averaged bar position, x, along-
shore sinuosity of the bar, a, and wave forcing, F = H 2
o . The linear model suggests that
2DH bathymetry is linked to cross-shore bar migration rates. Nevertheless, the primary
limitation is that variations in bar position and variability are required to be temporally
uncorrelated with forcing in order to achieve meaningful results. For large storms, this is
indeed the case. However, many smaller storms seen at Palm Beach show that changes
in bar position and variability are correlated with forcing and bar interaction dynamics
are not separable from bar - forcing dynamics.
In Chapter 4 a nonlinear model is subsequently developed and tested on the same data
set. Initial equations for cross-shore sediment transport are formulated from commonly
accepted…
Advisors/Committee Members: Holman, Robert (advisor), Ozkan-Haller, H. Tuba (committee member).
Subjects/Keywords: Nearshore; Sediment transport – Remote sensing – Mathematical models
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❌
APA ·
Chicago ·
MLA ·
Vancouver ·
CSE |
Export
to Zotero / EndNote / Reference
Manager
APA (6th Edition):
Splinter, K. D. (2009). Development of 2D models to estimate nearshore bathymetry and sediment transport. (Doctoral Dissertation). Oregon State University. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/1957/11751
Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):
Splinter, Kristen D. “Development of 2D models to estimate nearshore bathymetry and sediment transport.” 2009. Doctoral Dissertation, Oregon State University. Accessed March 05, 2021.
http://hdl.handle.net/1957/11751.
MLA Handbook (7th Edition):
Splinter, Kristen D. “Development of 2D models to estimate nearshore bathymetry and sediment transport.” 2009. Web. 05 Mar 2021.
Vancouver:
Splinter KD. Development of 2D models to estimate nearshore bathymetry and sediment transport. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. Oregon State University; 2009. [cited 2021 Mar 05].
Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1957/11751.
Council of Science Editors:
Splinter KD. Development of 2D models to estimate nearshore bathymetry and sediment transport. [Doctoral Dissertation]. Oregon State University; 2009. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1957/11751

University of KwaZulu-Natal
4.
Shanganlall, Arissa.
Nearshore morphological changes and their relation to wave-induced forcing at Isipingo embayment, KwaZulu-Natal.
Degree: 2017, University of KwaZulu-Natal
URL: http://hdl.handle.net/10413/15758
► The nearshore zone is one of the most active sedimentary environments on the continental shelf, frequently impacted by energetic wave conditions and storm–generated waves and…
(more)
▼ The
nearshore zone is one of the most active sedimentary environments on the continental shelf, frequently impacted by energetic wave conditions and storm–generated waves and flows. Despite its proximity to the beach and shoreline, the
nearshore is a difficult domain to study and little is understood with regards to its response to storm waves and the agents responsible for the morphological evolution of the region. Previous research has provided insight into the
nearshore, however high-resolution approaches to gain a three dimensional understanding of these environments are still lacking. This is especially true in geologically constrained environments as coastal embayments. Advances in the acquisition and analysis of high- resolution multibeam bathymetry of the
nearshore, coupled with wave modelling techniques, can provide an improved understanding of coastal response to high energetic wave conditions and the subsequent morphological changes that result from the impact of storm events.
Detailed
nearshore multibeam bathymetric surveying conducted at the Isipingo embayment before and after the 2017 winter season provided a framework to analyse the seasonal morphological changes that were driven by winter storms along the KwaZulu-Natal coastline. High-resolution bathymetric grids were implemented in the hydrodynamic model SWAN (Simulating Waves
Nearshore) to simulate the
nearshore wave field of Isipingo embayment for a variety of wave conditions. Morphological changes were evaluated in conjunction with wave-induced forcing to determine the potential for sediment mobilisation. Spectral wave modelling results of the wave field and bed shear stresses agree with the observed morphological changes. Significant erosion and deposition occurred in the shallower regions (5 m to 14 m) of the study area and along the northeast and southwest sections of the embayment.
Modelling results presented in this study indicate that the spatial variation and distribution of orbital bottom velocities and bed shear stresses are strongly dependent upon the bathymetric configuration of large-scale bedforms and the magnitude of the
nearshore wave field. Consequently, the greater the energy of the wave conditions (i.e. as a result of major storm events) the greater the wave-induced forcing, which causes the change of the bedforms and the morphological evolution of the
nearshore. Large-scale features such as shoreface-connected ridges, rippled scour depressions and large subaqueous dunes tend to increase the significant wave height and the bed shear stresses acting on the seabed. Thus, waves are focussed towards the NE headland resulting in an extensive zone of erosion in the embayment.
The main geological constraints at the embayed region of Isipingo are imposed by the NE and SW headlands and the shoreface-connected ridges. Such constraints drive the development of topographically controlled rips against the NE headland, set up by the prevalent south-north longshore current, and the shadowing effect of the SW headland also contributes to…
Advisors/Committee Members: Green, Andrew Noel. (advisor), Loureiro, Carlos Manuel. (advisor).
Subjects/Keywords: Geology.; Coastal geomorphology.; SWAN.; Isipingo beach.; Nearshore.
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❌
APA ·
Chicago ·
MLA ·
Vancouver ·
CSE |
Export
to Zotero / EndNote / Reference
Manager
APA (6th Edition):
Shanganlall, A. (2017). Nearshore morphological changes and their relation to wave-induced forcing at Isipingo embayment, KwaZulu-Natal. (Thesis). University of KwaZulu-Natal. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/10413/15758
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation
Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):
Shanganlall, Arissa. “Nearshore morphological changes and their relation to wave-induced forcing at Isipingo embayment, KwaZulu-Natal.” 2017. Thesis, University of KwaZulu-Natal. Accessed March 05, 2021.
http://hdl.handle.net/10413/15758.
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation
MLA Handbook (7th Edition):
Shanganlall, Arissa. “Nearshore morphological changes and their relation to wave-induced forcing at Isipingo embayment, KwaZulu-Natal.” 2017. Web. 05 Mar 2021.
Vancouver:
Shanganlall A. Nearshore morphological changes and their relation to wave-induced forcing at Isipingo embayment, KwaZulu-Natal. [Internet] [Thesis]. University of KwaZulu-Natal; 2017. [cited 2021 Mar 05].
Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/10413/15758.
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation
Council of Science Editors:
Shanganlall A. Nearshore morphological changes and their relation to wave-induced forcing at Isipingo embayment, KwaZulu-Natal. [Thesis]. University of KwaZulu-Natal; 2017. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/10413/15758
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Oregon State University
5.
Stockdon, Hilary F.
Predicting the longshore-variable coastal response to hurricanes.
Degree: PhD, Oceanography, 2006, Oregon State University
URL: http://hdl.handle.net/1957/1930
► The longshore variability of the coastal response to hurricanes may be examined within the framework of a storm-impact scaling model that compares spatially-variable beach morphology…
(more)
▼ The longshore variability of the coastal response to hurricanes may be examined within the framework of a storm-impact scaling model that compares spatially-variable beach morphology and fluid forcing. The relative elevations of dune height and storm-induced water levels are used to define three impact regimes (swash, collision, and overwash), within which the magnitudes and processes of sediment transport are expected to be unique. Maximum total water-levels are modeled as the sum of astronomical tide, storm surge, and wave runup. The 2% exceedence level for runup, the sum of wave setup and swash, is calculated using a parameterization found to be accurate to 38 cm (rms error) based on comparisons to 491 data runs from ten field experiments. Techniques have been developed to extract accurate (15-cm rms) and detailed measures of large-scale coastal morphology and change from high-resolution topographic laser altimetry (lidar) surveys, allowing for quantification of relevant dune heights as well as the magnitudes and patterns of shoreline, dune, beach slope, and beach volume change in response to hurricanes.
Based on the relative elevations of modeled hurricane-induced water levels and lidar-derived measures of pre-storm (1997) dune morphology, the potential impact regimes for Hurricanes Bonnie (1998) and Floyd (1999) were defined at 20-m increments along a 70-km stretch of coast in Onslow Bay, North Carolina. Comparisons to the observed impact regime, quantified from calculations of dune erosion and overwash deposition, indicate that the predictive accuracy of the model was 55.4%, an improvement over the 33.3% accuracy associated with random chance. Regime-specific model sensitivity was highest within the overwash regime (86.9%), decreasing to 55.8% and 1.5% in the collision and swash regimes, respectively. Shoreline and beach volume change in response to the storms were spatially-variable: the standard deviation of change was the same order of magnitude as the mean. Magnitudes of coastal change scaled with the observed impact regime. Beach volume change within the overwash and collision regimes was over two times greater than that within the swash regime. Little recovery was observed in overwashed locations where sand was transported inland and removed from the
nearshore system. Here, the volume of sand removed from the beach was balanced by that in the overwash deposits.
Advisors/Committee Members: Holman, Robert A. (advisor), Sallenger, Asbury Jr (committee member).
Subjects/Keywords: nearshore processes; Hurricanes
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❌
APA ·
Chicago ·
MLA ·
Vancouver ·
CSE |
Export
to Zotero / EndNote / Reference
Manager
APA (6th Edition):
Stockdon, H. F. (2006). Predicting the longshore-variable coastal response to hurricanes. (Doctoral Dissertation). Oregon State University. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/1957/1930
Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):
Stockdon, Hilary F. “Predicting the longshore-variable coastal response to hurricanes.” 2006. Doctoral Dissertation, Oregon State University. Accessed March 05, 2021.
http://hdl.handle.net/1957/1930.
MLA Handbook (7th Edition):
Stockdon, Hilary F. “Predicting the longshore-variable coastal response to hurricanes.” 2006. Web. 05 Mar 2021.
Vancouver:
Stockdon HF. Predicting the longshore-variable coastal response to hurricanes. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. Oregon State University; 2006. [cited 2021 Mar 05].
Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1957/1930.
Council of Science Editors:
Stockdon HF. Predicting the longshore-variable coastal response to hurricanes. [Doctoral Dissertation]. Oregon State University; 2006. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1957/1930

Delft University of Technology
6.
Baron-Hyppolite, Christophe (author).
Simulation of Nearshore Processes and Testing of Implicit and Explicit Vegetation Representations in SWAN.
Degree: 2018, Delft University of Technology
URL: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:bcff26ed-5529-4149-ab1e-334734eaf3bf
► Using data made available by George Mason University (GMU), a U.S. university situated in Virginia. Field data is used to validate both a Delft 3D…
(more)
▼ Using data made available by George Mason University (GMU), a U.S. university situated in Virginia. Field data is used to validate both a Delft 3D and SWAN standalone model. The paper not only shows the difference between the implicit manning roughness approach and the explicit cylindrical vegetation approach, but also provides a comparison between different drag coefficients as well as dissipation rates for Spartina Alterniflora under storm conditions.
Coastal Maritime Engineering and Management
Advisors/Committee Members: Bricker, Jeremy (mentor), Aarninkhof, Stefan (graduation committee), Zijlema, Marcel (graduation committee), Lashley, Chris (graduation committee), Ferreira, Celso (graduation committee), Delft University of Technology (degree granting institution).
Subjects/Keywords: Nearshore Processes; Delft 3D; SWAN; Wave Dissipation
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❌
APA ·
Chicago ·
MLA ·
Vancouver ·
CSE |
Export
to Zotero / EndNote / Reference
Manager
APA (6th Edition):
Baron-Hyppolite, C. (. (2018). Simulation of Nearshore Processes and Testing of Implicit and Explicit Vegetation Representations in SWAN. (Masters Thesis). Delft University of Technology. Retrieved from http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:bcff26ed-5529-4149-ab1e-334734eaf3bf
Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):
Baron-Hyppolite, Christophe (author). “Simulation of Nearshore Processes and Testing of Implicit and Explicit Vegetation Representations in SWAN.” 2018. Masters Thesis, Delft University of Technology. Accessed March 05, 2021.
http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:bcff26ed-5529-4149-ab1e-334734eaf3bf.
MLA Handbook (7th Edition):
Baron-Hyppolite, Christophe (author). “Simulation of Nearshore Processes and Testing of Implicit and Explicit Vegetation Representations in SWAN.” 2018. Web. 05 Mar 2021.
Vancouver:
Baron-Hyppolite C(. Simulation of Nearshore Processes and Testing of Implicit and Explicit Vegetation Representations in SWAN. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2018. [cited 2021 Mar 05].
Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:bcff26ed-5529-4149-ab1e-334734eaf3bf.
Council of Science Editors:
Baron-Hyppolite C(. Simulation of Nearshore Processes and Testing of Implicit and Explicit Vegetation Representations in SWAN. [Masters Thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2018. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:bcff26ed-5529-4149-ab1e-334734eaf3bf

University of Victoria
7.
Shaffer, J. Anne.
Nearshore restoration associated with large dam removal andI implications for ecosystem recovery and conservation of northeast Pacific fish: lessons learned from the Elwha dam removal.
Degree: Department of Biology, 2017, University of Victoria
URL: http://hdl.handle.net/1828/8061
► This dissertation addresses the relationship between large-scale dam removal and the nearshore ecosystem function for fish. The work is based on almost a decade’s worth…
(more)
▼ This dissertation addresses the relationship between large-scale dam removal and the
nearshore ecosystem function for fish. The work is based on almost a decade’s worth of collaborative field work in the
nearshore of the largest dam removal in the world recently completed on the Elwha River. The data analyzed span seven years prior to, during, and throughout the first year of each dam removal (January 2008 to November 2015). As of September 2015, approximately 2.6 million m3 of sediment material increased the area of the Elwha delta to over 150 ha. Long term study of fish in the estuary reveals fish community response to dam removal, and indicates likely interactions in the
nearshore between hatchery and wild fish, including chum salmon critical to watershed recovery. Continued hatchery releases may therefore further challenge chum salmon recovery, and this interaction should be considered when planning for future watershed recovery. Community analysis revealed that, while species richness and taxonomic diversity do not appear to have a significant response to dam removal, functional diversity in the
nearshore does respond significantly to dam removal. Three main shifts occurred in the
nearshore: large scale and rapid creation of estuary habitats; delivery of large amounts of sediment to the delta/estuary in a short period of time, and; a shift in original habitats from tidally influenced to non-tidally influenced habitats resulted in changes in estuary function. Changes in functional diversity occur disproportionately in the new sites, which have more unstable, and so less resilient, communities. Functional diversity in the original estuary sites appears to be more resilient than in the newly created sites due to the large-scale environmental disruption that, ironically, created the new sites. However, the functional diversity at the original sites may be defined in part by management activities, including hatcheries that could mute/mask/inhibit other community responses. Further, functional diversity at the newly formed
nearshore areas is predicted to stabilize as the habitats are vegetated and mature. Principal components analysis of Elwha fish community over the course of this study reveals that the fish communities of the Elwha are predictably grouped, indicating that while a few new species are observed, dam removal has not resulted in observable disruptions in fish community assemblages. And finally,
nearshore habitats are critical for many forage fish species, and an emerging topic for large-scale dam removals. Forage fish spawning response to dam removal appears to be complex and may be related to multiple factors including high interannual variability in physical habitat conditions, geographic factors and complex life histories of forage fish. Habitat suitability for forage fish spawning should increase as restored ecosystem processes and newly created habitats mature and stabilize, indicating that time may be an important factor in
nearshore restoration for forage fish spawning. It is therefore…
Advisors/Committee Members: Juanes, Francis (supervisor).
Subjects/Keywords: nearshore; estuary; restoration; salmon; dam removal; hatchery
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❌
APA ·
Chicago ·
MLA ·
Vancouver ·
CSE |
Export
to Zotero / EndNote / Reference
Manager
APA (6th Edition):
Shaffer, J. A. (2017). Nearshore restoration associated with large dam removal andI implications for ecosystem recovery and conservation of northeast Pacific fish: lessons learned from the Elwha dam removal. (Thesis). University of Victoria. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/1828/8061
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation
Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):
Shaffer, J Anne. “Nearshore restoration associated with large dam removal andI implications for ecosystem recovery and conservation of northeast Pacific fish: lessons learned from the Elwha dam removal.” 2017. Thesis, University of Victoria. Accessed March 05, 2021.
http://hdl.handle.net/1828/8061.
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation
MLA Handbook (7th Edition):
Shaffer, J Anne. “Nearshore restoration associated with large dam removal andI implications for ecosystem recovery and conservation of northeast Pacific fish: lessons learned from the Elwha dam removal.” 2017. Web. 05 Mar 2021.
Vancouver:
Shaffer JA. Nearshore restoration associated with large dam removal andI implications for ecosystem recovery and conservation of northeast Pacific fish: lessons learned from the Elwha dam removal. [Internet] [Thesis]. University of Victoria; 2017. [cited 2021 Mar 05].
Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1828/8061.
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation
Council of Science Editors:
Shaffer JA. Nearshore restoration associated with large dam removal andI implications for ecosystem recovery and conservation of northeast Pacific fish: lessons learned from the Elwha dam removal. [Thesis]. University of Victoria; 2017. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1828/8061
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation
8.
Silva, Luciana Kimie Savay da.
Produção do beijupirá (Rachycentron canadum) visando a rastreabilidade - parâmetros de qualidade ambiental; físico-químicos e microbiológicos da espécie.
Degree: PhD, Química na Agricultura e no Ambiente, 2015, University of São Paulo
URL: http://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/64/64135/tde-25062015-162051/
;
► Atualmente, o beijupirá é a espécie nativa que reúne o maior número de características em comum com outras espécies aquáticas cultivadas comercialmente, sendo assim, indicada…
(more)
▼ Atualmente, o beijupirá é a espécie nativa que reúne o maior número de características em comum com outras espécies aquáticas cultivadas comercialmente, sendo assim, indicada para ser a espécie pioneira na piscicultura marinha brasileira. No entanto, sua criação é incipiente. Neste trabalho, foram realizados dois estudos pontuais: um para monitorar a criação de beijupirás em gaiolas, sistema offshore, no litoral de Pernambuco; e outro para monitorar a criação de beijupirás em tanques-redes, sistema
nearshore, no litoral de São Paulo. O objetivo foi aferir parâmetros ambientais de qualidade da água de criação, físico-químicos e microbiológicos do beijupirá, que possam ser utilizados na elaboração de um sistema modelo de rastreabilidade da cadeia produtiva dessa espécie. Em ambos os estudos foram realizadas quatro coletas em diferentes meses do ano, com o intuito de se avaliar as possíveis correlações existentes entre os parâmetros ambientais - índice pluviométrico e temperatura do ar - e os parâmetros de qualidade avaliados na água de criação - oxigênio dissolvido, temperatura, demanda bioquímica de oxigênio, demanda química de oxigênio, salinidade, amônia, nitrito, nitrato, fosfato, carbono orgânico total, turbidez, transparência, CO2, pH, clorofila a e contagem microbiológica - e nos peixes - biometria, rendimento, composição centesimal, ácidos graxos, aminoácidos, pH, bases voláteis totais e contagem microbiológica. Verificou-se que a maioria dos parâmetros físico-químicos e microbiológicos avaliados na água de criação, estavam em conformidade com a legislação brasileira vigente ou dentro dos limites sugeridos pela literatura para criação dessa espécie. Todavia, esses parâmetros apresentaram variação nos diferentes meses de coleta, principalmente no estudo realizado no sistema
nearshore, o que dificulta afirmar as possíveis interferências desses parâmetros na qualidade e desempenho dos animais. Os peixes amostrados apresentaram baixo desenvolvimento zootécnico, se comparado ao peso total final previsto na literatura para essa espécie. No entanto, o rendimento em filé apresentou-se satisfatório, principalmente no sistema
nearshore, aproximadamente 40%. Todas as amostras de filés de beijupirás avaliadas apresentaram conformidade microbiológica, frescor e qualidade nutricional, principalmente no que se refere à composição dos seus aminoácidos e ácidos graxos, com destaque para presença de lisina e ácidos graxos Eicosapentaenoico (EPA) e Docosahexaenoico (DHA), sendo, estas informações úteis para efeitos de marketing na divulgação e estimulo do consumo dessa espécie. O mesmo foi observado para o resíduo gerado após o processamento dos filés, o que sugere a possibilidade de elaboração de coprodutos com qualidade nutricional, tornando a cadeia produtiva dessa espécie mais rentável e sustentável. Os alimentos fornecidos aos animais, não eram adequados para satisfazer as exigências nutricionais dos mesmos, sendo a falta no mercado de rações elaboradas com formulações específicas um entrave para o sucesso dessa atividade.…
Advisors/Committee Members: Oetterer, Marilia.
Subjects/Keywords: Beijupirá; Cobia; Maricultura; Mariculture; Nearshore; Nearshore; Nutritional quality; Offshore; Offshore; Qualidade de água; Qualidade nutricional; Rastreabilidade; Traceability; Water quality
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APA ·
Chicago ·
MLA ·
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APA (6th Edition):
Silva, L. K. S. d. (2015). Produção do beijupirá (Rachycentron canadum) visando a rastreabilidade - parâmetros de qualidade ambiental; físico-químicos e microbiológicos da espécie. (Doctoral Dissertation). University of São Paulo. Retrieved from http://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/64/64135/tde-25062015-162051/ ;
Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):
Silva, Luciana Kimie Savay da. “Produção do beijupirá (Rachycentron canadum) visando a rastreabilidade - parâmetros de qualidade ambiental; físico-químicos e microbiológicos da espécie.” 2015. Doctoral Dissertation, University of São Paulo. Accessed March 05, 2021.
http://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/64/64135/tde-25062015-162051/ ;.
MLA Handbook (7th Edition):
Silva, Luciana Kimie Savay da. “Produção do beijupirá (Rachycentron canadum) visando a rastreabilidade - parâmetros de qualidade ambiental; físico-químicos e microbiológicos da espécie.” 2015. Web. 05 Mar 2021.
Vancouver:
Silva LKSd. Produção do beijupirá (Rachycentron canadum) visando a rastreabilidade - parâmetros de qualidade ambiental; físico-químicos e microbiológicos da espécie. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. University of São Paulo; 2015. [cited 2021 Mar 05].
Available from: http://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/64/64135/tde-25062015-162051/ ;.
Council of Science Editors:
Silva LKSd. Produção do beijupirá (Rachycentron canadum) visando a rastreabilidade - parâmetros de qualidade ambiental; físico-químicos e microbiológicos da espécie. [Doctoral Dissertation]. University of São Paulo; 2015. Available from: http://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/64/64135/tde-25062015-162051/ ;

University of South Florida
9.
Brutsche, Katherine.
First Year Sedimentological Characteristics and Morphological Evolution of an Artificial Berm at Fort Myers Beach, Florida.
Degree: 2011, University of South Florida
URL: https://scholarcommons.usf.edu/etd/3019
► Dredging is often conducted to maintain authorized depths in coastal navigation channels. Placement of dredged sediment in the form of nearshore berms is becoming an…
(more)
▼ Dredging is often conducted to maintain authorized depths in coastal navigation channels. Placement of dredged sediment in the form of nearshore berms is becoming an increasingly popular option for disposal. Compared to direct beach placement, nearshore berms have fewer environmental impacts such as shore birds and turtle nesting, and have more lenient sediment compatibility restrictions. Understanding the potential morphological and sedimentological evolution is crucial to the design of a nearshore berm. Furthermore, the artificial perturbation generated by the berm installation provides a unique opportunity to understand the equilibrium process of coastal morphodynamics.
Matanzas Pass and Bowditch Point, located on the northern tip of Estero Island in west-central Florida were dredged in October 2009. The dredged material was placed approximately 600 ft offshore of Fort Myers Beach and 1.5 miles southeast of Matanzas Pass, in the form of an artificial berm. Time-series surveys and sediment sampling were conducted semi-annually in order to quantify sedimentological characteristics and morphological changes within the first year after construction of the berm.
The artificial berm at Fort Myers Beach is composed mainly of fine sand. Patches of mud were found throughout the study area, with the highest concentrations being in the trough landward of the berm, and offshore southeast of the berm area. The highest concentration of carbonates was found in the swash zone, as well as at the landward toe of the berm, which coincides with the coarsest sediment. The overall mud content of the berm is lower than that of the dredged sediment, thus indicating a coarsening of the berm over time. The reduction in fines as compared to the original dredged sedimet could also indicate a selective transport mechanism that moves finer material offshore, and coarser material landward, a desirable trend for artificial berm nourishment.
During the course of the first year, the berm migrated landward and increased in elevation. Onshore migration occurred mostly within the first 6 months. Along with onshore migration, the shape of the berm changed from a symmetrical bell curve to an asymmetrical shape with a steep landward slope. There is no clear spatial trend of volume change alongshore within the berm area, indicating that sediment transport is mostly cross-shore dominated. A salient was formed landward of the northern portion of the berm. Several gaps were created during berm construction due to dredging and placement techniques. These dynamic gaps are likely maintained by rip currents through them. This study showed that the Fort Myers Beach berm is active, due to its landward migration during the first year after construction.
Subjects/Keywords: beach erosion; berm nourishment; coastal morphodynamics; nearshore bar; nearshore sediment transport; American Studies; Arts and Humanities; Geology; Geomorphology; Sedimentology
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❌
APA ·
Chicago ·
MLA ·
Vancouver ·
CSE |
Export
to Zotero / EndNote / Reference
Manager
APA (6th Edition):
Brutsche, K. (2011). First Year Sedimentological Characteristics and Morphological Evolution of an Artificial Berm at Fort Myers Beach, Florida. (Thesis). University of South Florida. Retrieved from https://scholarcommons.usf.edu/etd/3019
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation
Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):
Brutsche, Katherine. “First Year Sedimentological Characteristics and Morphological Evolution of an Artificial Berm at Fort Myers Beach, Florida.” 2011. Thesis, University of South Florida. Accessed March 05, 2021.
https://scholarcommons.usf.edu/etd/3019.
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation
MLA Handbook (7th Edition):
Brutsche, Katherine. “First Year Sedimentological Characteristics and Morphological Evolution of an Artificial Berm at Fort Myers Beach, Florida.” 2011. Web. 05 Mar 2021.
Vancouver:
Brutsche K. First Year Sedimentological Characteristics and Morphological Evolution of an Artificial Berm at Fort Myers Beach, Florida. [Internet] [Thesis]. University of South Florida; 2011. [cited 2021 Mar 05].
Available from: https://scholarcommons.usf.edu/etd/3019.
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation
Council of Science Editors:
Brutsche K. First Year Sedimentological Characteristics and Morphological Evolution of an Artificial Berm at Fort Myers Beach, Florida. [Thesis]. University of South Florida; 2011. Available from: https://scholarcommons.usf.edu/etd/3019
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation
10.
Long, Joseph W.
Modeling shallow-water hydrodynamics : rotations, rips, and
rivers.
Degree: PhD, Civil Engineering, 2009, Oregon State University
URL: http://hdl.handle.net/1957/11533
► Hydrodynamic models are used as a diagnostic tool to understand the temporal variability of shallow-water processes that are difficult to completely resolve with traditional field…
(more)
▼ Hydrodynamic models are used as a diagnostic tool to understand the temporal variability of shallow-water processes that are difficult to completely resolve with traditional field measurements. For all simulations, modeled quantities are qualitatively or quantitatively compared with available measurements to gain confidence in conclusions derived from the modeled results. In this work we consider both vorticity motions and rip currents, which arise from alongshore inhomogeneities in the wave momentum flux but occur at much different time scales (O(min) vs. O(hours-weeks)). They each have an effect on sediment transport processes and dispersion of sediments or pollutants in the surf zone, which makes understanding their structure and persistence essential.
The vorticity motions of interest here are associated with spatial and temporal wave height variations caused by wave grouping and can exist with either normally or obliquely incident wave conditions. We find that these flows persist for O(1000s) but their lifespan is controlled by the sequence of wave forcing rather than bottom friction as previously hypothesized. These motions can also be observed in combination with either stable or unstable alongshore currents. Our results suggest that, at times, these alongshore propagating wave group forced vortices are misinterpreted as instabilities of the alongshore current.
Alternately, the rip currents considered in this research are controlled by strong wave height gradients in the surf zone generated by the refraction of incident waves over variable offshore depth contours. Thus, this type of circulation is governed by timescales associated with changing offshore wave conditions (O(hours - days)). We consider a four-week time period when variable offshore wave spectra were observed during a large-scale field experiment. The model and data are in good agreement for all wave conditions during the month and estimated model errors are similar to those found previously for alongshore uniform beaches. Through comparisons with remote sensing observations, the model proves it is capable of predicting rip currents when they are observed. Analysis suggests that the direction of the offshore wave spectra will dictate when and where rip currents will appear. We also find that for bi-modal offshore spectra, the relative amount of energy in each spectral mode is a better predictor of rip current development than the peak spectral characteristics.
Finally, some preliminary work to estimate water depths from the combination of hydrodynamic models and available data is also presented. We focus this work in a river meander for our initial tests. A simple analytical model shows skill in predicting the water depth at only one of the two river meanders considered. This discrepancy appears to be related to river curvature and as curvature weakens, the model accuracy decreases. This is hypothesized to be the result of dispersive mixing which is not accounted for in this simple model but confirmation is still required.…
Advisors/Committee Members: Ozkan-Haller, H. Tuba (advisor), Haller, Merrick (committee member).
Subjects/Keywords: nearshore; Hydrodynamics – Mathematical models
…Nearshore Measurements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
58
3.2.2
Description of Offshore Wave… …Importance of Nearshore Bathymetry
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
86
3.9
Conclusions… …x28;thick dashed line) . 47
3.1
Locations of instruments deployed during the Nearshore… …coastal (nearshore)
environment and fluvial systems. Rivers and nearshore regions are… …given
the strength of the flow, they have the capacity to carve deep channels in the nearshore…
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❌
APA ·
Chicago ·
MLA ·
Vancouver ·
CSE |
Export
to Zotero / EndNote / Reference
Manager
APA (6th Edition):
Long, J. W. (2009). Modeling shallow-water hydrodynamics : rotations, rips, and
rivers. (Doctoral Dissertation). Oregon State University. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/1957/11533
Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):
Long, Joseph W. “Modeling shallow-water hydrodynamics : rotations, rips, and
rivers.” 2009. Doctoral Dissertation, Oregon State University. Accessed March 05, 2021.
http://hdl.handle.net/1957/11533.
MLA Handbook (7th Edition):
Long, Joseph W. “Modeling shallow-water hydrodynamics : rotations, rips, and
rivers.” 2009. Web. 05 Mar 2021.
Vancouver:
Long JW. Modeling shallow-water hydrodynamics : rotations, rips, and
rivers. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. Oregon State University; 2009. [cited 2021 Mar 05].
Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1957/11533.
Council of Science Editors:
Long JW. Modeling shallow-water hydrodynamics : rotations, rips, and
rivers. [Doctoral Dissertation]. Oregon State University; 2009. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1957/11533
11.
Schramek, Travis Allen.
Ocean-Island Interactions in the Western Pacific.
Degree: Scripps Institution of Oceanography, 2018, University of California – San Diego
URL: http://www.escholarship.org/uc/item/90r4v10p
► Coastal processes around islands encompass dynamics on a range of scales with physics that can differ from typical continental shelves due to steeper bathymetry, potentially…
(more)
▼ Coastal processes around islands encompass dynamics on a range of scales with physics that can differ from typical continental shelves due to steeper bathymetry, potentially allowing the surrounding basin waters to ‘communicate’ quickly to the shoreline. This thesis work advances our understanding about these interactions, using a unique set of nearshore oceanographic observations from around the island group encompassed by the Republic of Palau in the tropical western Pacific.The influence of large scale and climatic variability on nearshore island environments can be seen through an empirical model of fore reef temperature structure based on SST and sea level anomaly (SLA) made from nearly two decades of temperature observations (2-90m depth) from three stations around Palau. SLA complements SST by providing a proxy for vertical isotherm displacements driven by local and remote winds on intraseasonal to interannual time scales. Thermal stress on coral ecosystems can now be forecast into the mesophotic zone using this means of predicting subsurface temperatures which are easily accessible for the tropical Pacific. Baroclinic variability around islands has multiple drivers on a range of time scales. Observations of temperature and currents from around the main island group of Palau exhibit a persistent presence of baroclinic coastally trapped waves and internal tides. The largest amplitude signals of coastally trapped waves in fore reef temperature were concurrent with the passage of Typhoon Haiyan, which crossed the northern most Palauan islands in November of 2013. The sub-inertial signals present after Typhoon Haiyan were tracked propagating around the island group for upwards of a week after the typhoon passed. Internal tides were also deemed to be present, but with varying amplitude and phase modulating in and out of phase with the local surface tide. Surface currents impinging upon Palau have a direct impact on the local sea level field around the island group. An array of nearshore pressure gauges, in depths of 20-28 m, encircling the island group and a high resolution (1/120° x 1/120°) regional circulation model are used to examine the space-time characteristics of the flow in a channel in the southern extent of Palau in comparison to the large-scale currents near the island group. A balance between the along-channel pressure difference and bottom friction in the channel was inferred based on the current and pressure observations and the high-resolution model simulations. A drag coefficient for the channel, computed using in situ observations, is O(10-3-10-4). Variations in large-scale zonal currents correlate with the pressure difference across the channel as well as the along-channel flow. The model simulations indicate that as the large-scale flow impinges on the island group, topographic blocking results in a pressure difference on either side of the island which causes a pressure gradient along the channel. The fore reef waters of Palau are shown to be influenced by a range of dynamics across all spatial…
Subjects/Keywords: Physical oceanography; fore reefs; islands; nearshore processess; oceanography; physical oceanography
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❌
APA ·
Chicago ·
MLA ·
Vancouver ·
CSE |
Export
to Zotero / EndNote / Reference
Manager
APA (6th Edition):
Schramek, T. A. (2018). Ocean-Island Interactions in the Western Pacific. (Thesis). University of California – San Diego. Retrieved from http://www.escholarship.org/uc/item/90r4v10p
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation
Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):
Schramek, Travis Allen. “Ocean-Island Interactions in the Western Pacific.” 2018. Thesis, University of California – San Diego. Accessed March 05, 2021.
http://www.escholarship.org/uc/item/90r4v10p.
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation
MLA Handbook (7th Edition):
Schramek, Travis Allen. “Ocean-Island Interactions in the Western Pacific.” 2018. Web. 05 Mar 2021.
Vancouver:
Schramek TA. Ocean-Island Interactions in the Western Pacific. [Internet] [Thesis]. University of California – San Diego; 2018. [cited 2021 Mar 05].
Available from: http://www.escholarship.org/uc/item/90r4v10p.
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation
Council of Science Editors:
Schramek TA. Ocean-Island Interactions in the Western Pacific. [Thesis]. University of California – San Diego; 2018. Available from: http://www.escholarship.org/uc/item/90r4v10p
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Mississippi State University
12.
Dillon, Sally Catherine Davis.
Examining the effects of directional wave spectra on a nearshore wave model.
Degree: MS, Agricultural and Biological Engineering, 2018, Mississippi State University
URL: http://sun.library.msstate.edu/ETD-db/theses/available/etd-05042018-151330/
;
► Wave models are an integral part of coastal engineering due to their ability to quantify information that is either unobtainable or unavailable. However, these…
(more)
▼ Wave models are an integral part of coastal engineering due to their ability to quantify information that is either unobtainable or unavailable. However, these models rely heavily on the input of a directional wave spectrum that describes the variation of energy with frequency and direction. This study investigated how five methods for computing the directional wave spectrum perform within the
nearshore spectral wave model, STWAVE. The results of the five experimental runs showed that overall, the greatest differences between spectra were observed in the significant wave height parameter. The mean wave direction showed greater differences at the offshore model domain boundary and lesser differences as the wave enters the
nearshore; and the peak period had fewer differences at the boundary, but at the
nearshore the differences were dependent upon the presence of wind forcing. Winds had a significant impact on observed differences between the spectra in the domain by dominating the wave field variation.
Advisors/Committee Members: Anna C. Linhoss (chair), Adam Skarke (committee member), Jane M. Smith (committee member).
Subjects/Keywords: spreading function; STWAVE; frequency spectra; directional wave spectra; nearshore wave model
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❌
APA ·
Chicago ·
MLA ·
Vancouver ·
CSE |
Export
to Zotero / EndNote / Reference
Manager
APA (6th Edition):
Dillon, S. C. D. (2018). Examining the effects of directional wave spectra on a nearshore wave model. (Masters Thesis). Mississippi State University. Retrieved from http://sun.library.msstate.edu/ETD-db/theses/available/etd-05042018-151330/ ;
Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):
Dillon, Sally Catherine Davis. “Examining the effects of directional wave spectra on a nearshore wave model.” 2018. Masters Thesis, Mississippi State University. Accessed March 05, 2021.
http://sun.library.msstate.edu/ETD-db/theses/available/etd-05042018-151330/ ;.
MLA Handbook (7th Edition):
Dillon, Sally Catherine Davis. “Examining the effects of directional wave spectra on a nearshore wave model.” 2018. Web. 05 Mar 2021.
Vancouver:
Dillon SCD. Examining the effects of directional wave spectra on a nearshore wave model. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Mississippi State University; 2018. [cited 2021 Mar 05].
Available from: http://sun.library.msstate.edu/ETD-db/theses/available/etd-05042018-151330/ ;.
Council of Science Editors:
Dillon SCD. Examining the effects of directional wave spectra on a nearshore wave model. [Masters Thesis]. Mississippi State University; 2018. Available from: http://sun.library.msstate.edu/ETD-db/theses/available/etd-05042018-151330/ ;
13.
Yoon, Hyun Doug.
Observations and prediction of intermittent sediment suspension in the surf zone.
Degree: PhD, Civil Engineering, 2011, Oregon State University
URL: http://hdl.handle.net/1957/23019
► In this dissertation the interactions between hydrodynamics, sediment suspension and transport, and morphological evolution in the surf zone was investigated with a large-scale laboratory experiment…
(more)
▼ In this dissertation the interactions between hydrodynamics, sediment suspension and transport, and morphological evolution in the surf zone was investigated with a large-scale laboratory experiment data, CROss-Shore Sediment Transport Experiment (CROSSTEX). The data set included comprehensive measurements of water surface elevation, fluid velocity, sediment concentration, and morphology for irregular waves under erosive and accretive beach conditions.
First, hydrodynamics were examined in response to morphological evolution, focusing on turbulence due to wave breaking. For the erosive and accretive beach conditions, wave breaking characteristics, such as wave heights, average rate of energy dissipation by bores, and surf similarity parameter, were investigated in response to morphodynamics of the bar. Time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy was closely related to wave energy dissipation, supporting that wave energy dissipation is the main source of turbulent kinetic energy production in the surf zone. From this, it was found that wave energy, turbulent estimates, and morphodynamics in the surf zone were closely related to each other and they were quantitatively examined.
Second, intermittent features of sediment suspension and turbulence, and their relationship were examined. Intermittent events of turbulence and sediment suspension occurred for a small portion of the time series but contained a significant amount of motions in these events. Comparison of intermittency statistics with previous studies conducted under different experimental conditions showed similar results, indicating that intermittency is a general aspect of turbulence and sediment suspension in the surf zone. Also the relationship between the turbulence and sediment suspension events were explored with conditional probabilities. Here, only 20~35% of the turbulent events were associated with sediment suspension events, implying that much of the intermittent turbulent motion may act to dissipate wave energy rather than suspend sediments. On the other hand, 50~65% of the sediment suspension events were associated with turbulent events, implying that intermittent turbulent motion is one of the fundamental mechanism for the initiation of sediment suspension in the surf zone. It was also found that the intermittent sediment suspension events significantly contributed to onshore sediment transport.
Finally, the intermittent sediment suspension was predicted with an artificial neural network. Input hydrodynamics consisted of low-frequency motions, wave-induced motions, and turbulent kinetic energy near the bed and near water surface level. Artificial neural network provided a prominent prediction capability of sediment suspension, showing a correlation coefficient up to 0.79 at the bar crest in the accretive beach condition. From the investigation of various combinations of input data, it was found that turbulence is the most contributing factor for sediment suspension in the surf zone. The inclusion of the information from the upper sensor…
Advisors/Committee Members: Cox, Daniel (advisor), Ozkan-Haller, Tuba (committee member).
Subjects/Keywords: nearshore process; Sediment transport
…171
LIST OF FIGURES
Page
Figure
1.1
Sketch of nearshore process (courtesy of Dr… …129
4.1 Summary of literatures using artificial neural network in coastal and
nearshore… …processes in nearshore environments. However, in
the study of Scott et al. (2005), the… …of nearshore process (courtesy of Dr. Daniel Cox)
6
Chapter 2
Large-scale… …x29;, applied to
the nearshore. Alternatively, field observations of turbulence in the surf…
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❌
APA ·
Chicago ·
MLA ·
Vancouver ·
CSE |
Export
to Zotero / EndNote / Reference
Manager
APA (6th Edition):
Yoon, H. D. (2011). Observations and prediction of intermittent sediment suspension in the surf zone. (Doctoral Dissertation). Oregon State University. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/1957/23019
Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):
Yoon, Hyun Doug. “Observations and prediction of intermittent sediment suspension in the surf zone.” 2011. Doctoral Dissertation, Oregon State University. Accessed March 05, 2021.
http://hdl.handle.net/1957/23019.
MLA Handbook (7th Edition):
Yoon, Hyun Doug. “Observations and prediction of intermittent sediment suspension in the surf zone.” 2011. Web. 05 Mar 2021.
Vancouver:
Yoon HD. Observations and prediction of intermittent sediment suspension in the surf zone. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. Oregon State University; 2011. [cited 2021 Mar 05].
Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1957/23019.
Council of Science Editors:
Yoon HD. Observations and prediction of intermittent sediment suspension in the surf zone. [Doctoral Dissertation]. Oregon State University; 2011. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1957/23019
14.
Afonso, João Marcos da Silva.
Padrões verticais e inter-anuais nas assembleias de larvas de peixe junto ao substrato rochoso do Parque Marinho da Arrábida.
Degree: 2009, RCAAP
URL: http://www.rcaap.pt/detail.jsp?id=oai:sapientia.ualg.pt:10400.1/1807
► Dissertação de mest., Biologia Marinha, Faculdade de Ciências e Tecnologia, Univ. do Algarve, 2009
Em regiões temperadas, as flutuações na disponibilidade larvar podem afectar os…
(more)
▼ Dissertação de mest., Biologia Marinha, Faculdade de Ciências e Tecnologia, Univ. do Algarve, 2009
Em regiões temperadas, as flutuações na disponibilidade larvar podem afectar os padrões de recrutamento das populações de peixes que vivem associados a recifes. De modo a investigar a variação inter-anual (2007 e 2008) e vertical (fundo e superfície) da composição, estrutura, abundância e diversidade das assembleias larvares, foram capturadas larvas de peixe recorrendo a armadilhas de luz muito próximo dos recifes onde vivem os adultos. Foi capturado um total de 6.601 (371 nas amostras no fundo e 6230 nas amostras na superfície) larvas, correspondendo a 28 espécies pertencentes a 8 famílias, sendo a maioria pertencente a espécies costeiras. Não se registaram grandes diferenças inter-anuais entre 2007 e 2008 na diversidade, contudo, a análise à estrutura permitiu detectar uma clara distinção entre estes anos havendo uma alteração na composição das espécies que mais contribuíram para a similaridade entre amostras. Relativamente à distribuição vertical, a superfície (2008) apresentou maior diversidade taxonómica enquanto que o fundo (2008) apresentou maior diversidade específica. Também foi encontrada uma clara diferença na estrutura das assembleias capturadas na superfície e no fundo em 2008, revelando padrões a uma escala espacial fina: nas amostras de fundo dominaram larvas da família Gobiidae, enquanto que à superfície Tripterygion delaisi foi a espécie mais abundante. Foram também registados para algumas espécies (Gobius xanthocephalus e Pomatoschistus pictus), padrões verticais ontogenéticos específicos, indicando a possibilidade de retenção larvar perto dos recifes. Para outras espécies como Parablennius pilicornis e Parablennius gattorugine apenas larvas pouco desenvolvidas (pré-flexão) foram registadas, o que pode indicar a produção local de larvas e a dispersão dos estados mais desenvolvidos. A utilização de armadilhas de luz revelou ser um método eficaz para a amostragem das assembleias larvares de peixes de recifes temperados, podendo ser no futuro conjugado com outras metodologias para uma melhor compreensão dos processos que regulam estas populações.
Advisors/Committee Members: Borges, Rita Alexandra Duarte, Gonçalves, Emanuel, Serrão, Ester.
Subjects/Keywords: Larvas de peixe; “nearshore”; MPAs; Retenção; Armadilhas de luz
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APA (6th Edition):
Afonso, J. M. d. S. (2009). Padrões verticais e inter-anuais nas assembleias de larvas de peixe junto ao substrato rochoso do Parque Marinho da Arrábida. (Thesis). RCAAP. Retrieved from http://www.rcaap.pt/detail.jsp?id=oai:sapientia.ualg.pt:10400.1/1807
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation
Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):
Afonso, João Marcos da Silva. “Padrões verticais e inter-anuais nas assembleias de larvas de peixe junto ao substrato rochoso do Parque Marinho da Arrábida.” 2009. Thesis, RCAAP. Accessed March 05, 2021.
http://www.rcaap.pt/detail.jsp?id=oai:sapientia.ualg.pt:10400.1/1807.
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation
MLA Handbook (7th Edition):
Afonso, João Marcos da Silva. “Padrões verticais e inter-anuais nas assembleias de larvas de peixe junto ao substrato rochoso do Parque Marinho da Arrábida.” 2009. Web. 05 Mar 2021.
Vancouver:
Afonso JMdS. Padrões verticais e inter-anuais nas assembleias de larvas de peixe junto ao substrato rochoso do Parque Marinho da Arrábida. [Internet] [Thesis]. RCAAP; 2009. [cited 2021 Mar 05].
Available from: http://www.rcaap.pt/detail.jsp?id=oai:sapientia.ualg.pt:10400.1/1807.
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation
Council of Science Editors:
Afonso JMdS. Padrões verticais e inter-anuais nas assembleias de larvas de peixe junto ao substrato rochoso do Parque Marinho da Arrábida. [Thesis]. RCAAP; 2009. Available from: http://www.rcaap.pt/detail.jsp?id=oai:sapientia.ualg.pt:10400.1/1807
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Oregon State University
15.
Chickadel, Carmine C. (Carmine Christopher).
Remote measurements of waves and currents over complex bathymetry.
Degree: PhD, Oceanography, 2007, Oregon State University
URL: http://hdl.handle.net/1957/6715
► Waves are the primary input of energy in the nearshore region, and together with the currents forced through the transfer of momentum that occurs during…
(more)
▼ Waves are the primary input of energy in the
nearshore region, and together with the currents forced through the transfer of momentum that occurs during the wave breaking process they are the principal mechanism for sediment transport in the
nearshore. The basic physics of waves and currents are thought to be well understood, and simple models for waves and current interacting with simple (alongshore-uniform bathymetry) generally agree with in situ measurements. However, alongshore variability is ubiquitous, and the predictability of waves and currents over complex bathymetry is an important research topic. Significant effort has been placed into understanding and predicting (modeling) the kinematics and dynamics of waves and currents, but the accuracy of these models are largely untested, due to the lack of appropriate wave and current measurements.
This dissertation first details the development and application of an optical remote sensing technique to measure the shape of wave frequency-direction spectra over large scale complex bathymetry. The optical wave spectral estimation technique is based on the wave slope dependence of reflected skylight, and while not a metric of the absolute wave energy, the measurement technique is shown to agree with the frequency and directional distributions of in situ measurements. Simultaneously, the optical technique offers increased directional resolution. Maps of the wave direction field over a submarine canyon, using the optical technique, show dramatic changes in the wave divergence and convergence which coincides with details of the large scale bathymetry gradients.
The last section of this dissertation analyzes 14 months of surf zone longshore currents measured from a two-dimensional array using a previously described optical remote sensing technique. Based on metrics developed in the study, the longshore currents are shown to be alongshore nonuniform for the majority (70%) of the observations, suggesting that a simple one-dimensional force balance circulation model is not generally applicable. Related tests of a point model only show moderate skill when predicting the peak longshore current (rms error 0.38 m/s). Though cases of two-dimensional circulation (i.e. rip currents) are shown to coincide with alongshore-variable bathymetry, a metric of the degree of alongshore bathymetry variability, γB, has poor skill of predicting the strength of spatial longshore current variability.
Advisors/Committee Members: Holman, Robert A. (advisor), Komar, Paul (committee member).
Subjects/Keywords: nearshore; Ocean waves – Remote sensing
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Chicago ·
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APA (6th Edition):
Chickadel, C. C. (. C. (2007). Remote measurements of waves and currents over complex bathymetry. (Doctoral Dissertation). Oregon State University. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/1957/6715
Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):
Chickadel, Carmine C (Carmine Christopher). “Remote measurements of waves and currents over complex bathymetry.” 2007. Doctoral Dissertation, Oregon State University. Accessed March 05, 2021.
http://hdl.handle.net/1957/6715.
MLA Handbook (7th Edition):
Chickadel, Carmine C (Carmine Christopher). “Remote measurements of waves and currents over complex bathymetry.” 2007. Web. 05 Mar 2021.
Vancouver:
Chickadel CC(C. Remote measurements of waves and currents over complex bathymetry. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. Oregon State University; 2007. [cited 2021 Mar 05].
Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1957/6715.
Council of Science Editors:
Chickadel CC(C. Remote measurements of waves and currents over complex bathymetry. [Doctoral Dissertation]. Oregon State University; 2007. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1957/6715

Oregon State University
16.
Killian, Jason R.
Remote sensing of radiation stress gradients from optical imagery.
Degree: MS, Oceanography, 2007, Oregon State University
URL: http://hdl.handle.net/1957/6713
► Wave-induced circulation is the defining characteristic of the nearshore. Within this region, the constant feedback cycle between incoming waves, wave-generated currents, and the mobile sediment…
(more)
▼ Wave-induced circulation is the defining characteristic of the
nearshore. Within this region, the constant feedback cycle between incoming waves, wave-generated currents, and the mobile sediment bed is responsible for the evolution of complex patterns in
nearshore and beach morphology. Central to our understanding of this system is knowledge of the forcing mechanisms.
We investigate the potential of optical signals to provide an alternative remote sensing method for the direct estimation of radiation stress gradients in the
nearshore. The use of an optical method will provide the ability to easily observe a large, spatially-dense array for extended periods. Additionally, the creation of a remote sensing technique will greatly expand the possibilities for data assimilation in
nearshore circulation and sediment transport models. Here, we will examine the formulation of radiation stress gradients in terms of component variables with distinct optical signatures, as well as examine the relationship between optical radiation stress gradient measurements and in situ measurements of fluid response.
Our results show that the spatial patterns in optical intensity due to wave breaking can be isolated from background optical intensity with a robust Gaussian breaker intensity model. However, the transformation from optical intensity due to wave breaking to a quantitative measure of local dissipation is quite complex. The use of in situ measurements of wave energy flux in calibration of this technique introduces a dependence on in situ instrumentation in an otherwise optical remote sensing technique.
Normalized wave spectra are calculated based on pixel intensity time series from a 2-dimensional spatially-lagged array. These optical spectra compare well with spectra calculated from in situ puv data. The wave spectra provide a weighting term, allowing for wave frequency and directional spread.
Results of each component model compare well with available field measurements, but validation of the complete optical radiation stress gradient technique is complicated by the lack of direct field measurements of radiation stress gradients. Attempts to examine the balance between wave-induced forcing and fluid response at the 1997 SandyDuck field experiment are complicated by the complex, non-linear nature of the current patterns during this deployment.
Advisors/Committee Members: Holman, Robert A. (advisor), Haller, Merrick (committee member).
Subjects/Keywords: nearshore; Ocean waves – Remote sensing
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APA (6th Edition):
Killian, J. R. (2007). Remote sensing of radiation stress gradients from optical imagery. (Masters Thesis). Oregon State University. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/1957/6713
Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):
Killian, Jason R. “Remote sensing of radiation stress gradients from optical imagery.” 2007. Masters Thesis, Oregon State University. Accessed March 05, 2021.
http://hdl.handle.net/1957/6713.
MLA Handbook (7th Edition):
Killian, Jason R. “Remote sensing of radiation stress gradients from optical imagery.” 2007. Web. 05 Mar 2021.
Vancouver:
Killian JR. Remote sensing of radiation stress gradients from optical imagery. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Oregon State University; 2007. [cited 2021 Mar 05].
Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1957/6713.
Council of Science Editors:
Killian JR. Remote sensing of radiation stress gradients from optical imagery. [Masters Thesis]. Oregon State University; 2007. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1957/6713

University of Southern Mississippi
17.
Simpson, Jennifer.
Nearshore Sedimentology of Eroding Microtidal Estuaries: Bon Secour Bay, Alabama and Perdido Bay, Florida.
Degree: MS, 2020, University of Southern Mississippi
URL: https://aquila.usm.edu/masters_theses/717
► Estuarine shorelines along the northern Gulf of Mexico are dynamic geologic settings that provide numerous ecological and economic benefits. By definition, estuaries are semi-enclosed…
(more)
▼ Estuarine shorelines along the northern Gulf of Mexico are dynamic geologic settings that provide numerous ecological and economic benefits. By definition, estuaries are semi-enclosed bodies of water that receive sediment from two sources: (1) fluvial systems feeding into the estuary and (2) sediment transported by wave action and tidal currents from adjacent marine sources. Erosion of estuarine shorelines resulting from rising sea level, storm impact, and anthropogenic influence has been increasingly evident in the microtidal Gulf Coast over recent decades. This study collects quantitative and qualitative data to better understand sedimentary dynamics associated with contemporary estuarine shoreline erosion in Bon Secour Bay, Alabama and Perdido Bay, Florida. Historical aerial imagery compared with modern imagery indicates an average land loss rate of 0.30 – 0.67 m yr-1 at Bon Secour Bay (1992–2018) and 0.55 m yr-1 at Perdido Bay (1994–2018). Selection of these two sites is based on their similar microtidal, sandy, forested, undeveloped, northwest-to-southeast trending shorelines; albeit Bon Secour Bay has a considerably longer fetch and greater fluvial sediment input as it is part of the greater Mobile Bay estuarine system. Particle size of five
nearshore sediment cores (~0.75 – 1.00 m below seafloor) are dominated by fine- to medium-grained sand with intervals of very fine and coarse sand and silt (rare). Sedimentological characteristics of
nearshore cores and surface sediment suggest eroding shorelines are being directly deposited to the
nearshore. Occurrences of shell material, wood fragments, coarser particles, and reduced sorting quality at the base of some core locations indicate facies change and possible ravinement surfaces that have been buried by sediment from a Holocene transgression.
Advisors/Committee Members: Franklin T. Heitmuller, T. Markham Puckett, Carl A. "Andy" Reese.
Subjects/Keywords: sedimentology; microtidal; estuarine; nearshore; holocene; ravinement surface; Geology
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APA ·
Chicago ·
MLA ·
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CSE |
Export
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APA (6th Edition):
Simpson, J. (2020). Nearshore Sedimentology of Eroding Microtidal Estuaries: Bon Secour Bay, Alabama and Perdido Bay, Florida. (Masters Thesis). University of Southern Mississippi. Retrieved from https://aquila.usm.edu/masters_theses/717
Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):
Simpson, Jennifer. “Nearshore Sedimentology of Eroding Microtidal Estuaries: Bon Secour Bay, Alabama and Perdido Bay, Florida.” 2020. Masters Thesis, University of Southern Mississippi. Accessed March 05, 2021.
https://aquila.usm.edu/masters_theses/717.
MLA Handbook (7th Edition):
Simpson, Jennifer. “Nearshore Sedimentology of Eroding Microtidal Estuaries: Bon Secour Bay, Alabama and Perdido Bay, Florida.” 2020. Web. 05 Mar 2021.
Vancouver:
Simpson J. Nearshore Sedimentology of Eroding Microtidal Estuaries: Bon Secour Bay, Alabama and Perdido Bay, Florida. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. University of Southern Mississippi; 2020. [cited 2021 Mar 05].
Available from: https://aquila.usm.edu/masters_theses/717.
Council of Science Editors:
Simpson J. Nearshore Sedimentology of Eroding Microtidal Estuaries: Bon Secour Bay, Alabama and Perdido Bay, Florida. [Masters Thesis]. University of Southern Mississippi; 2020. Available from: https://aquila.usm.edu/masters_theses/717
18.
Bergsma, Erwin Willem Johan.
Application of an improved video-based depth inversion technique to a macrotidal sandy beach.
Degree: PhD, 2017, University of Plymouth
URL: http://hdl.handle.net/10026.1/8736
► Storm conditions are considered the dominating erosional mechanism for the coastal zone. Morphological changes during storms are hard to measure due to energetic environmental conditions.…
(more)
▼ Storm conditions are considered the dominating erosional mechanism for the coastal zone. Morphological changes during storms are hard to measure due to energetic environmental conditions. Surveys are therefore mostly executed right after a storm on a local scale over a single or few storms [days to weeks]. The impact of a single storm might depend on the preceding sequence of storms. Here, a video camera system is deployed in the South-West of England at the beach of Porthtowan to observe and assess short-term storm impact and long-term recovery. The morphological change is observed with a state-of-the-art video-based depth estimation tool that is based on the linear dispersion relationship between depth and wave celerity (cBathy). This work shows the first application of this depth estimation tool in a highly energetic macrotidal environment. Within this application two sources of first-order inaccuracies are identified: 1) camera related issues on the camera boundaries and 2) fixed pixel location for all tidal elevations. These systematic inaccuracies are overcome by 1) an adaptive pixel collection scheme and camera boundary solution and 2) freely moving pixels. The solutions together result in a maximum RMS-error reduction of 60%. From October 2013 to February 2015 depths are hourly estimated during daylight. This period included, the 2013-2014 winter season which was the most energetic winter since wave records began. Inter-tidal beach surveys show 200 m3/m erosion while the sub-tidal video derived bathymetries show a sediment loss of around 20 m3/m. At the same time the sub-tidal (outer) bar changes from 3D to linear due to a significant increase in alongshore wave power during storm conditions. Complex-EOF based storm-by-storm impact reveals that the individual storm impact at Porthtowan can be described as a combined function of storm-integrated incident offshore wave power [P] and disequilibrium and that the tidal range has limited effect on the storm impact. The inter- and sub-tidal domain together gain volume over the 2013-2014 winter and the two domains show an interactive inverse behaviour indicating sediment exchange during relatively calm summer conditions. The inter-tidal domain shows accelerated accretion during more energetic conditions in fall 2014. The outer bar slowly migrated onshore until more energetic wave conditions activate the sub-tidal storm deposits and 3 dimensionality is reintroduced. The inter-tidal beach shows full recovery in November 2014, 8 months after the stormy winter.
Subjects/Keywords: 551.46; cBathy; depth inversion; nearshore; video; porthtowan; cornwall
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APA ·
Chicago ·
MLA ·
Vancouver ·
CSE |
Export
to Zotero / EndNote / Reference
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APA (6th Edition):
Bergsma, E. W. J. (2017). Application of an improved video-based depth inversion technique to a macrotidal sandy beach. (Doctoral Dissertation). University of Plymouth. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/10026.1/8736
Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):
Bergsma, Erwin Willem Johan. “Application of an improved video-based depth inversion technique to a macrotidal sandy beach.” 2017. Doctoral Dissertation, University of Plymouth. Accessed March 05, 2021.
http://hdl.handle.net/10026.1/8736.
MLA Handbook (7th Edition):
Bergsma, Erwin Willem Johan. “Application of an improved video-based depth inversion technique to a macrotidal sandy beach.” 2017. Web. 05 Mar 2021.
Vancouver:
Bergsma EWJ. Application of an improved video-based depth inversion technique to a macrotidal sandy beach. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. University of Plymouth; 2017. [cited 2021 Mar 05].
Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/10026.1/8736.
Council of Science Editors:
Bergsma EWJ. Application of an improved video-based depth inversion technique to a macrotidal sandy beach. [Doctoral Dissertation]. University of Plymouth; 2017. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/10026.1/8736

University of Bath
19.
Williamson, Benjamin.
Developing a holonomic iROV as a tool for kelp bed mapping.
Degree: PhD, 2013, University of Bath
URL: https://researchportal.bath.ac.uk/en/studentthesis/developing-a-holonomic-irov-as-a-tool-for-kelp-bed-mapping(66301d4d-8d9f-41a9-823d-72cbd4ffab29).html
;
https://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.600219
► Kelp beds support a vast and diverse ecosystem including marine mammals, fish, invertebrates, other algae and epibiota, yet these kelp beds can be highly ephemeral.…
(more)
▼ Kelp beds support a vast and diverse ecosystem including marine mammals, fish, invertebrates, other algae and epibiota, yet these kelp beds can be highly ephemeral. Mapping the density and distribution of kelp beds, and assessing change over yearly cycles, are important objectives for coastal oceanography. However, nearshore habitat mapping is challenging, affected by dynamic currents, tides, shallow depths, frequent non-uniform obstacles and often turbid water. Noisy and often incomplete sensor data compound a lack of landmarks available for navigation. The intelligent, position-aware holonomic ROV (iROV) SeaBiscuit was designed specifically for this nearshore habitat mapping application and represents a novel synthesis of techniques and innovative solutions to nearshore habitat mapping. The concept of an iROV combines the benefits of autonomous underwater navigation and mapping while maintaining the flexibility and security of remote high-level control and supervision required for operation in hostile, complex underwater environments. An onboard battery provides an energy buffer for high-powered thrust and security of energy supply. Onboard low-level autonomy provides robust autopilot features, including station-keeping or course-holding in a flow, allowing the operator to direct the survey and supervise mapping data in realtime during acquisition. With the aim of providing high-usability maps on a budget feasible for small-scale field research groups, SeaBiscuit fuses the data from an orthogonal arrangement of a forward-facing multibeam sonar and a complementary 360° scanning sonar with a full navigation suite to explore and map the nearshore environment. Sensor fusion, coupled with the holonomic propulsion system, also allows optimal use of the information available from the limited budget sensor suite. Robust and reliable localisation is achieved even with noisy and incomplete sensor data using a relatively basic Inertial Navigation System and sonar-aided SLAM in the absence of an expensive Doppler velocity log or baseline navigation system. Holonomic motion in the horizontal plane and an axisymmetric hull provide the manoeuvrability required to operate in this complex environment, while allowing 3D maps to be generated in-transit. The navigation algorithms were tested mapping a piling dock and the habitat mapping sensors calibrated using an ‘artificial’ kelp bed of manually dimensioned kelp stipes transplanted to a sheltered but open-water real-world environment. Sea trials demonstrated mapping open ocean kelp beds, identifying clusters of stipes, converting this into a useful measure of biomass and generating a density surface across the kelp bed. This research provides field-proven techniques to improve the nearshore habitat mapping capabilities of underwater vehicles. Future work includes the transition to full-scale kelp bed mapping, and further development of the vehicle and sensor fusion algorithms to improve nearshore navigation.
Subjects/Keywords: 621.36; habitat mapping; kelp; nearshore; sonar; robotics; SLAM
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APA ·
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CSE |
Export
to Zotero / EndNote / Reference
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APA (6th Edition):
Williamson, B. (2013). Developing a holonomic iROV as a tool for kelp bed mapping. (Doctoral Dissertation). University of Bath. Retrieved from https://researchportal.bath.ac.uk/en/studentthesis/developing-a-holonomic-irov-as-a-tool-for-kelp-bed-mapping(66301d4d-8d9f-41a9-823d-72cbd4ffab29).html ; https://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.600219
Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):
Williamson, Benjamin. “Developing a holonomic iROV as a tool for kelp bed mapping.” 2013. Doctoral Dissertation, University of Bath. Accessed March 05, 2021.
https://researchportal.bath.ac.uk/en/studentthesis/developing-a-holonomic-irov-as-a-tool-for-kelp-bed-mapping(66301d4d-8d9f-41a9-823d-72cbd4ffab29).html ; https://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.600219.
MLA Handbook (7th Edition):
Williamson, Benjamin. “Developing a holonomic iROV as a tool for kelp bed mapping.” 2013. Web. 05 Mar 2021.
Vancouver:
Williamson B. Developing a holonomic iROV as a tool for kelp bed mapping. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. University of Bath; 2013. [cited 2021 Mar 05].
Available from: https://researchportal.bath.ac.uk/en/studentthesis/developing-a-holonomic-irov-as-a-tool-for-kelp-bed-mapping(66301d4d-8d9f-41a9-823d-72cbd4ffab29).html ; https://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.600219.
Council of Science Editors:
Williamson B. Developing a holonomic iROV as a tool for kelp bed mapping. [Doctoral Dissertation]. University of Bath; 2013. Available from: https://researchportal.bath.ac.uk/en/studentthesis/developing-a-holonomic-irov-as-a-tool-for-kelp-bed-mapping(66301d4d-8d9f-41a9-823d-72cbd4ffab29).html ; https://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.600219

Delft University of Technology
20.
Van Bemmelen, C.W.T. (author).
Long Term Process-Based Morphological Modelling of Pocket Beaches.
Degree: 2017, Delft University of Technology
URL: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:8fad63f2-1994-4877-9627-4446eae21913
► The applicability of the open source model XBeach was tested for pocket beaches in this paper. First, schematized model setups have been used to assess…
(more)
▼ The applicability of the open source model XBeach was tested for pocket beaches in this paper. First, schematized model setups have been used to assess the performance of XBeach qualitatively. It was found that adjustments of the initial bed were required to obtain the expected hydrodynamic conditions. The default sediment advection calibration factors had to be increased to obtain the expected morphological response of the pockets (stationair: 0.15, surfbeat: 0.30). The results have shown that the surfbeat mode outperforms the stationary mode based on a qualitative assessment. It was furthermore found that wave-current interaction produced unreliable results and should be avoided when modelling pocket beaches using XBeach. Non-hydrostatic simulations produced significantly more sedimentation behind the headlands due to the inclusion of diffraction. This mode was found to produce unexpected erosion at the upper shoreface however, indicating the inapplicability of the sediment transport formulas in non-hydrostatic simulations. Expansion of the classic pocket beach into two adjacent pocket beaches showed that these systems have to be treated as a complete system if interactions between these pockets are expected (separated by a salient). It was found that an individual assessment is adequate if a tombolo separates the pockets. Second, the morphological developments between the year 2000 and 2015 at Tanjong Beach (Singapore) were modelled using XBeach. For the modelled bed level changes, which were compared to bathymetric measurements, a ‘Good’ Mean-Squared Error Skill Score of 0.31 was found. In the prepared model, the obtained sediment advection calibration factors from the first part were used and model calibration was not performed. Based on the schematizations and the case study performed in this study, XBeach was found to be applicable for long term process-based modelling of pocket beaches.
Civil Engineering and Geosciences
Hydraulic Engineering
Advisors/Committee Members: Aarninkhof, S.G.J. (mentor), De Schipper, M. (mentor), Jansen, M. (mentor), Bodde, W. (mentor).
Subjects/Keywords: Pocket Beaches; Embayed Beaches; Nearshore Currents; Morphology; XBeach
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APA ·
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MLA ·
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CSE |
Export
to Zotero / EndNote / Reference
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APA (6th Edition):
Van Bemmelen, C. W. T. (. (2017). Long Term Process-Based Morphological Modelling of Pocket Beaches. (Thesis). Delft University of Technology. Retrieved from http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:8fad63f2-1994-4877-9627-4446eae21913
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation
Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):
Van Bemmelen, C W T (author). “Long Term Process-Based Morphological Modelling of Pocket Beaches.” 2017. Thesis, Delft University of Technology. Accessed March 05, 2021.
http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:8fad63f2-1994-4877-9627-4446eae21913.
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation
MLA Handbook (7th Edition):
Van Bemmelen, C W T (author). “Long Term Process-Based Morphological Modelling of Pocket Beaches.” 2017. Web. 05 Mar 2021.
Vancouver:
Van Bemmelen CWT(. Long Term Process-Based Morphological Modelling of Pocket Beaches. [Internet] [Thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2017. [cited 2021 Mar 05].
Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:8fad63f2-1994-4877-9627-4446eae21913.
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation
Council of Science Editors:
Van Bemmelen CWT(. Long Term Process-Based Morphological Modelling of Pocket Beaches. [Thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2017. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:8fad63f2-1994-4877-9627-4446eae21913
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

University of Victoria
21.
Reshitnyk, Luba Yvanka.
Acoustic and satellite remote sensing of shallow nearshore marine habitats in the Gwaii Haanas National Marine Conservation Area.
Degree: Dept. of Geography, 2013, University of Victoria
URL: http://hdl.handle.net/1828/4951
► The ability to map nearshore habitat (i.e. submerged aquatic vegetation) is an integral component of marine conservation. The main goal of this thesis was to…
(more)
▼ The ability to map
nearshore habitat (i.e. submerged aquatic vegetation) is an integral component of marine conservation. The main goal of this thesis was to examine the ability of high resolution, multispectral satellite imagery and a single-beam acoustic ground discrimination system to map the location of marine habitats in Bag Harbour, found in the Gwaii Haanas National Marine Conservation Area Reserve. To meet this goal, two objectives were addressed: (1) Using the QTC View V sing-beam acoustic ground discrimination system, identify which frequency (50 kHz or 200 kHz) is best suited for mapping marine habitat; (2) evaluate the ability to map
nearshore marine habitat using WorldView-2 high resolution, multispectral satellite imagery and compare the results of marine habitat maps derived from the acoustic and satellite datasets. Ground-truth data for both acoustic and satellite data were collected via towed underwater video camera on June 3rd and 4th, 2012. Acoustic data (50 and 200 kHz) were collected on June 23rd and 24th, 2012, respectively.
The results of this study are organized into two papers. The first paper focuses on objective 1 where the QTC View V single-beam acoustic ground discrimination system was used to map
nearshore habitat at a site within the Gwaii Haanas National Marine Conservation Area using two survey frequencies – 50 kHz and 200 kHz. The results show that the 200 kHz data outperformed the 50 kHz data set in both thematic and spatial accuracy. The 200 kHz dataset was able to identify two species of submerged aquatic vegetation, eelgrass (Zostera marina) and a red algae (Chondrocanthus exasperatus) while the 50 kHz dataset was only able to detect the distribution of eelgrass. The best overall accuracy achieved with the 200 kHz dataset was 86% for a habitat map with three classes (dense eelgrass, dense red algae and unvegetated substrate) compared to the 50 kHz habitat classification with two classes (dense eelgrass and unvegetated substrate) that had an overall accuracy of 70%. Neither dataset was capable if discerning the distribution of green algae (Ulva spp.) or brown algae (Fucus spp.), also present at the site.
The second paper examines the benthic habitat maps created using WorldView-2 satellite imagery and the QTC View V single-beam acoustic ground discrimination system (AGDS) at 200 kHz (objective 2). Optical and acoustic remote sensing technologies both present unique capabilities of mapping
nearshore habitat. Acoustic systems are able to map habitat in subtidal regions outside of the range of optical sensors while optical sensors such as WorldView-2 provide higher spatial and spectral resolution. The results of this study found that the WorldView-2 achieved the highest overall accuracy (75%) for mapping shallow (<3 m) benthic classes (green algae, brown algae, eelgrass and unvegetated substrate). The 200 kHz data were found to perform best in deeper (>3 m) regions and were able to detect the distribution of eelgrass, red algae and unvegetated substrate. A final habitat map was…
Advisors/Committee Members: Dearden, Philip (supervisor), Robinson, Clifford L. K. (supervisor).
Subjects/Keywords: remote sensing; nearshore habitats; eelgrass; WorldView-2; QTCView; Gwaii Haanas
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APA ·
Chicago ·
MLA ·
Vancouver ·
CSE |
Export
to Zotero / EndNote / Reference
Manager
APA (6th Edition):
Reshitnyk, L. Y. (2013). Acoustic and satellite remote sensing of shallow nearshore marine habitats in the Gwaii Haanas National Marine Conservation Area. (Masters Thesis). University of Victoria. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/1828/4951
Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):
Reshitnyk, Luba Yvanka. “Acoustic and satellite remote sensing of shallow nearshore marine habitats in the Gwaii Haanas National Marine Conservation Area.” 2013. Masters Thesis, University of Victoria. Accessed March 05, 2021.
http://hdl.handle.net/1828/4951.
MLA Handbook (7th Edition):
Reshitnyk, Luba Yvanka. “Acoustic and satellite remote sensing of shallow nearshore marine habitats in the Gwaii Haanas National Marine Conservation Area.” 2013. Web. 05 Mar 2021.
Vancouver:
Reshitnyk LY. Acoustic and satellite remote sensing of shallow nearshore marine habitats in the Gwaii Haanas National Marine Conservation Area. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. University of Victoria; 2013. [cited 2021 Mar 05].
Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1828/4951.
Council of Science Editors:
Reshitnyk LY. Acoustic and satellite remote sensing of shallow nearshore marine habitats in the Gwaii Haanas National Marine Conservation Area. [Masters Thesis]. University of Victoria; 2013. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1828/4951

University of Victoria
22.
Carrasquilla, Mauricio.
Ecological importance of nearshore habitats to sustain small-scale fisheries.
Degree: Department of Biology, 2018, University of Victoria
URL: https://dspace.library.uvic.ca//handle/1828/9328
► In the marine realm, there has been considerable habitat degradation caused by multiple human disturbances that often act synergistically, strongly affecting fish and invertebrate populations…
(more)
▼ In the marine realm, there has been considerable habitat degradation caused by multiple human disturbances that often act synergistically, strongly affecting fish and invertebrate populations and, consequently, one of the major stakeholders of these resources, fishers. However, the mechanisms underlying how marine habitats support fisheries remain understudied. In this dissertation I examined the importance of fish habitat at global, regional and local scales in two distinct systems (mangrove habitats in the tropics and rockfish habitats in inshore waters of Vancouver Island) combining a suite of different approaches. First, I explored the mangrove-fishery linkage relationship by conducting a global meta-analysis. I found strong evidence supporting the importance of mangrove area to enhance fisheries. This relationship, however, varied across countries, likely based on regional geomorphological settings and fishery management policies. Subsequently, I determined the use of mangrove and adjacent habitats by fish in a tropical lagoon system in the continental Caribbean (Colombia), systems often overlooked in the Caribbean when analyzing mangroves as fish habitat. I collected fish with gillnets at different distances from mangroves and at different sites within the same lagoon system. While fish used mangroves, fish abundance was not higher in these habitats compared to adjacent ones, as predicted. However, diversity tended to be higher in mangroves. Nevertheless, the major driver affecting abundance, diversity and biomass was salinity. That is, diversity and abundance decreased as salinity increased. Next, I used a Local Ecological Knowledge approach to explore the mangrove-fishery linkage relationship because fishers are seldom incorporated into such relationships. By conducting semi-structured interviews I found that fishers fish close to their village and to mangroves, that in addition to fishing they use mangroves for firewood and as construction material. Fishers also agreed that mangroves are important for their fishing activity, as these habitats are critical for fish and crustaceans caught in the system. Finally, I examined the importance of derived benthic parameters for rockfish abundance and distribution at large spatial scales (100s km) in inshore waters of Vancouver Island. I established that higher complexity better explains presence and higher abundance of rockfish. Furthermore, the results provided valuable information for fishery and spatial management and habitat conservation to help recover rockfish populations. All together, these findings highlight the urgency to preserve coastal marine habitats for both juvenile and adult marine organisms to sustain small-scale fisheries as a food source and for traditional purposes. While conserving habitats is a key component of a broader and more complex ecosystem approach that includes overfishing and other anthropogenic pressures, in the absence of a holistic approach the chances of success are minimal.
Advisors/Committee Members: Juanes, Francis (supervisor).
Subjects/Keywords: Fish habitat; Mangrove habitats; small-scale fisheries; Nearshore; Coastal Ecosystems; Rockfish
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APA ·
Chicago ·
MLA ·
Vancouver ·
CSE |
Export
to Zotero / EndNote / Reference
Manager
APA (6th Edition):
Carrasquilla, M. (2018). Ecological importance of nearshore habitats to sustain small-scale fisheries. (Thesis). University of Victoria. Retrieved from https://dspace.library.uvic.ca//handle/1828/9328
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation
Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):
Carrasquilla, Mauricio. “Ecological importance of nearshore habitats to sustain small-scale fisheries.” 2018. Thesis, University of Victoria. Accessed March 05, 2021.
https://dspace.library.uvic.ca//handle/1828/9328.
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation
MLA Handbook (7th Edition):
Carrasquilla, Mauricio. “Ecological importance of nearshore habitats to sustain small-scale fisheries.” 2018. Web. 05 Mar 2021.
Vancouver:
Carrasquilla M. Ecological importance of nearshore habitats to sustain small-scale fisheries. [Internet] [Thesis]. University of Victoria; 2018. [cited 2021 Mar 05].
Available from: https://dspace.library.uvic.ca//handle/1828/9328.
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation
Council of Science Editors:
Carrasquilla M. Ecological importance of nearshore habitats to sustain small-scale fisheries. [Thesis]. University of Victoria; 2018. Available from: https://dspace.library.uvic.ca//handle/1828/9328
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Louisiana State University
23.
Reeves, David Bradley.
Oil and Gas Platforms on Ship Shoal, Northern Gulf of Mexico as Habitat for Reef-Associated Organisms.
Degree: MS, Oceanography and Atmospheric Sciences and Meteorology, 2015, Louisiana State University
URL: etd-04072015-181424
;
https://digitalcommons.lsu.edu/gradschool_theses/2743
► Nearshore Louisiana has experienced substantial changes within the last half-century, including the annual formation of the world’s second largest hypoxic zone and the construction of…
(more)
▼ Nearshore Louisiana has experienced substantial changes within the last half-century, including the annual formation of the world’s second largest hypoxic zone and the construction of thousands of oil and gas platforms (rigs). Ship Shoal and its rigs may provide important substrate in nearshore Louisiana because rigs act as de facto artificial reefs and the shoal’s bottom waters were well oxygenated on 43% of days when surrounding areas were hypoxic. From July to September of 2014, fish assemblages and hydrography were compared at shoal rigs, rigs inshore of the shoal, and rigs offshore of the shoal, and stone crab populations were compared at rigs on and off the shoal. A camera array and YSI sonde were used to characterize fish assemblages and hydrography at shoal rigs, rigs inshore, and offshore of the shoal. Stone crab densities were estimated with visual counts, and their life history was characterized by removing a subsample of stone crabs for identification and measurements. Fish assemblage composition was significantly different between shoal rigs, rigs inshore, and rigs offshore of the shoal (P<0.05). The most notable difference between assemblages was greater contribution of demersal fishes at shoal rigs than rigs inshore and offshore of the shoal. Hypoxia was intermittent at shoal rigs and persistent at rigs inshore and offshore of the shoal. Mean hypoxia thickness (meters of hypoxic water) was significantly greater (P<0.05) at rigs inshore (2.6 m) and offshore of the shoal (3.1 m) than it was at shoal rigs (0.6 m). Crab densities were roughly twice as high on as they were off the shoal (mean 4.0 vs. 1.8 stone crabs/m2; P<0.05), and the carapace width where 50% of females were ovigerous was 26.4 mm smaller for females off than on the shoal (P=0.057). Shoal rigs and rigs in surrounding waters provide important substrate for reef- associated organisms, although higher contribution of demersal fishes and densities of SCs at shoal rigs than rigs in surrounding waters suggest that shoal rigs are of higher relative importance. These findings suggest that further mining of Ship Shoal and removal of rigs may be detrimental to reef-associated organisms in nearshore Louisiana.
Subjects/Keywords: Hypoxia; Menippe; Stone Crab; Camera Array; Rigs; Fish Assemblages; Nearshore
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APA ·
Chicago ·
MLA ·
Vancouver ·
CSE |
Export
to Zotero / EndNote / Reference
Manager
APA (6th Edition):
Reeves, D. B. (2015). Oil and Gas Platforms on Ship Shoal, Northern Gulf of Mexico as Habitat for Reef-Associated Organisms. (Masters Thesis). Louisiana State University. Retrieved from etd-04072015-181424 ; https://digitalcommons.lsu.edu/gradschool_theses/2743
Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):
Reeves, David Bradley. “Oil and Gas Platforms on Ship Shoal, Northern Gulf of Mexico as Habitat for Reef-Associated Organisms.” 2015. Masters Thesis, Louisiana State University. Accessed March 05, 2021.
etd-04072015-181424 ; https://digitalcommons.lsu.edu/gradschool_theses/2743.
MLA Handbook (7th Edition):
Reeves, David Bradley. “Oil and Gas Platforms on Ship Shoal, Northern Gulf of Mexico as Habitat for Reef-Associated Organisms.” 2015. Web. 05 Mar 2021.
Vancouver:
Reeves DB. Oil and Gas Platforms on Ship Shoal, Northern Gulf of Mexico as Habitat for Reef-Associated Organisms. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Louisiana State University; 2015. [cited 2021 Mar 05].
Available from: etd-04072015-181424 ; https://digitalcommons.lsu.edu/gradschool_theses/2743.
Council of Science Editors:
Reeves DB. Oil and Gas Platforms on Ship Shoal, Northern Gulf of Mexico as Habitat for Reef-Associated Organisms. [Masters Thesis]. Louisiana State University; 2015. Available from: etd-04072015-181424 ; https://digitalcommons.lsu.edu/gradschool_theses/2743

University of South Carolina
24.
Román-Rivera, Mayra A.
Innovative Approaches Using Multispectral Imagery to Detect Nearshore Bars and Elucidate Beach-Dune System Dynamics.
Degree: PhD, Geography, 2019, University of South Carolina
URL: https://scholarcommons.sc.edu/etd/5580
► Nearshore bars naturally protect the coast against erosion by dissipating wave energy. They are significant reservoirs of sand, and thus, they may impact the…
(more)
▼ Nearshore bars naturally protect the coast against erosion by dissipating wave energy. They are significant reservoirs of sand, and thus, they may impact the response of beaches to different wave conditions.
Nearshore bar position and morphologic variability also influences long- and short-term beach and dune stability. This study reveals how
nearshore bars influence beach-dune dynamics using very high-resolution (VHR) imagery. A new low- cost identification approach for bar identification was applied by integrating VHR imagery. Future
nearshore bar research will benefit from integrating the larger spatial scale provided by satellite sensors. A rule-based OBIA approach was successful in identifying and characterizing
nearshore bars. This study also looked at the interactions of
nearshore dynamics and the beach-dune system by investigating the coastal system holistically instead of each feature (dunes, beach, and bars) as separate entities. Knowing how the dunes, the beach and the bars dynamics are related and how each component affects the response of the other during high-energy wave event conditions will also significantly improve the way that we manage, protect, and develop our coastlines. Results showed that the morphology of the
nearshore bars have a direct impact on how the dune-beach system respond to high-energy events.
Advisors/Committee Members: Jean T. Ellis.
Subjects/Keywords: Geography; coast; nearshore bars; wave; very high-resolution; OBIA
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❌
APA ·
Chicago ·
MLA ·
Vancouver ·
CSE |
Export
to Zotero / EndNote / Reference
Manager
APA (6th Edition):
Román-Rivera, M. A. (2019). Innovative Approaches Using Multispectral Imagery to Detect Nearshore Bars and Elucidate Beach-Dune System Dynamics. (Doctoral Dissertation). University of South Carolina. Retrieved from https://scholarcommons.sc.edu/etd/5580
Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):
Román-Rivera, Mayra A. “Innovative Approaches Using Multispectral Imagery to Detect Nearshore Bars and Elucidate Beach-Dune System Dynamics.” 2019. Doctoral Dissertation, University of South Carolina. Accessed March 05, 2021.
https://scholarcommons.sc.edu/etd/5580.
MLA Handbook (7th Edition):
Román-Rivera, Mayra A. “Innovative Approaches Using Multispectral Imagery to Detect Nearshore Bars and Elucidate Beach-Dune System Dynamics.” 2019. Web. 05 Mar 2021.
Vancouver:
Román-Rivera MA. Innovative Approaches Using Multispectral Imagery to Detect Nearshore Bars and Elucidate Beach-Dune System Dynamics. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. University of South Carolina; 2019. [cited 2021 Mar 05].
Available from: https://scholarcommons.sc.edu/etd/5580.
Council of Science Editors:
Román-Rivera MA. Innovative Approaches Using Multispectral Imagery to Detect Nearshore Bars and Elucidate Beach-Dune System Dynamics. [Doctoral Dissertation]. University of South Carolina; 2019. Available from: https://scholarcommons.sc.edu/etd/5580

Virginia Tech
25.
Albatal, Ali Hefdhallah Ali.
Advancement of Using Portable Free Fall Penetrometers for Geotechnical Site Characterization of Energetic Sandy Nearshore Areas.
Degree: PhD, Civil Engineering, 2018, Virginia Tech
URL: http://hdl.handle.net/10919/94608
► Portable Free Fall Penetrometers (PFFPs) are lightweight tools used for rapid and economic characterization of surficial subaqueous sediments. PFFPs vary in weight, shape and size…
(more)
▼ Portable Free Fall Penetrometers (PFFPs) are lightweight tools used for rapid and economic characterization of surficial subaqueous sediments. PFFPs vary in weight, shape and size with options for using add-on units. The different configurations enable deployments in various environments and water depths, including the
nearshore zone where conventional methods are challenged by energetic hydrodynamics and limited navigable depth. Moreover, PFFPs offer an opportunity to reduce the high site investigation costs associated with conventional offshore geotechnical site investigation methods. These costs are often a major obstacle for small projects serving remote communities or testing novel renewable energy harvesting machines. However, PFFPs still face issues regarding data analysis and interpretation, particularly in energetic sandy
nearshore areas. This includes a lack of data and accepted analysis methods for such environments. Therefore, the goal of this research was to advance data interpretation and sediments characterization methods using PFFPs with emphasis on deployments in energetic
nearshore environments.
PFFP tests were conducted in the
nearshore areas of: Yakutat Bay, AK; Cannon Beach, AK; and the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers' Field Research Facility's beach, Duck, NC. From the measurements, the research goal was addressed by: (1) introducing a methodology to create a regional sediment classification scheme utilizing the PFFP deceleration and pore pressure measurements, sediment traces on the probe upon retrieval, and previous literature; (2) investigating the effect of wave forcing on the sediments' behavior through correlating variations in sediment strength to wave climate, sandbar migration, and depth of closure, as well as identifying areas of significant sediment mobilization processes; and (3) estimating the relative density and friction angle of sand in energetic
nearshore areas from PFFP measurements. For the latter, the field data was supported by vacuum triaxial tests and PFFP deployments under controlled laboratory conditions on sand samples prepared at different relative densities.
The research outcomes address gaps in knowledge with regard to the limited studies available that investigate the sand geotechnical properties in energetic
nearshore areas. More specifically, the research contributes to the understanding of surficial sediment geotechnical properties in energetic
nearshore areas and the enhancement of sediment characterization and interpretation methods.
Advisors/Committee Members: Stark, Nina (committeechair), Irish, Jennifer L. (committee member), Castellanos, Bernardo Antonio (committee member), Zobel, Christopher W. (committee member), Wadman, Heidi M. (committee member).
Subjects/Keywords: Free-fall penetrometer; nearshore site investigation; sediment characterization; sand friction angle
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❌
APA ·
Chicago ·
MLA ·
Vancouver ·
CSE |
Export
to Zotero / EndNote / Reference
Manager
APA (6th Edition):
Albatal, A. H. A. (2018). Advancement of Using Portable Free Fall Penetrometers for Geotechnical Site Characterization of Energetic Sandy Nearshore Areas. (Doctoral Dissertation). Virginia Tech. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/10919/94608
Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):
Albatal, Ali Hefdhallah Ali. “Advancement of Using Portable Free Fall Penetrometers for Geotechnical Site Characterization of Energetic Sandy Nearshore Areas.” 2018. Doctoral Dissertation, Virginia Tech. Accessed March 05, 2021.
http://hdl.handle.net/10919/94608.
MLA Handbook (7th Edition):
Albatal, Ali Hefdhallah Ali. “Advancement of Using Portable Free Fall Penetrometers for Geotechnical Site Characterization of Energetic Sandy Nearshore Areas.” 2018. Web. 05 Mar 2021.
Vancouver:
Albatal AHA. Advancement of Using Portable Free Fall Penetrometers for Geotechnical Site Characterization of Energetic Sandy Nearshore Areas. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. Virginia Tech; 2018. [cited 2021 Mar 05].
Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/10919/94608.
Council of Science Editors:
Albatal AHA. Advancement of Using Portable Free Fall Penetrometers for Geotechnical Site Characterization of Energetic Sandy Nearshore Areas. [Doctoral Dissertation]. Virginia Tech; 2018. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/10919/94608

Royal Roads University
26.
Christensen, Lisa.
Evaluation of coastal protection services provided by nearshore habitats in Cox Bay, Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada
.
Degree: 2014, Royal Roads University
URL: http://hdl.handle.net/10170/705
► >Coastal and marine resources have been in global decline the past three decades. Research suggests that the decline is due to an undervaluation of ecosystem…
(more)
▼ >Coastal and marine resources have been in global decline the past three decades. Research suggests that the decline is due to an undervaluation of ecosystem services. The Natural Capital Project (Natcap) has developed models to assess the impact of human activities on the sustained delivery of ecosystem services within terrestrial and marine environments. With the use of Natcap models, this case study (located at Cox Bay, Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada), examined coastal protection services provided by
nearshore habitats, and provides an economic valuation of these services. The model results indicate that
nearshore habitats do play a role in reducing coastal vulnerability and coastal erosion, with an "avoided damages" cost of $1 million. Sand dunes provided the greatest amount of coastal protection, whereas seagrasses were found to have a negligible effect. These outcomes can inform policy and decision makers about trade-offs regarding habitat protection, coastal development and climate change adaptation.
Advisors/Committee Members: Dallimore, Audrey (advisor), Dodd, Matt (advisor), Ling, Chris (advisor).
Subjects/Keywords: climate change adaptation;
coastal protection;
ecosystem services;
natural capital;
nearshore habitats;
valuation
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APA ·
Chicago ·
MLA ·
Vancouver ·
CSE |
Export
to Zotero / EndNote / Reference
Manager
APA (6th Edition):
Christensen, L. (2014). Evaluation of coastal protection services provided by nearshore habitats in Cox Bay, Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada
. (Thesis). Royal Roads University. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/10170/705
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation
Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):
Christensen, Lisa. “Evaluation of coastal protection services provided by nearshore habitats in Cox Bay, Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada
.” 2014. Thesis, Royal Roads University. Accessed March 05, 2021.
http://hdl.handle.net/10170/705.
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation
MLA Handbook (7th Edition):
Christensen, Lisa. “Evaluation of coastal protection services provided by nearshore habitats in Cox Bay, Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada
.” 2014. Web. 05 Mar 2021.
Vancouver:
Christensen L. Evaluation of coastal protection services provided by nearshore habitats in Cox Bay, Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada
. [Internet] [Thesis]. Royal Roads University; 2014. [cited 2021 Mar 05].
Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/10170/705.
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation
Council of Science Editors:
Christensen L. Evaluation of coastal protection services provided by nearshore habitats in Cox Bay, Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada
. [Thesis]. Royal Roads University; 2014. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/10170/705
Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Humboldt State University
27.
Fuller, Allison R.
Spatial and temporal distribution, haulout use and movement patterns of Steller sea lions (eumetopias jubatus) in northern California.
Degree: MS, Biology, 2012, Humboldt State University
URL: http://hdl.handle.net/2148/1264
► I describe the spatial and temporal distribution, abundance and habitat use of Steller sea lions (Eumetopias jubatus) in northern California between 2006 and 2011 obtained…
(more)
▼ I describe the spatial and temporal distribution, abundance and habitat use of
Steller sea lions (Eumetopias jubatus) in northern California between 2006 and 2011
obtained through shore and at-sea surveys and by tracking branded individuals.
Understanding Steller sea lion habitat use is critical in designing and implementing
nearshore
management initiatives such as the Marine Life Protection Act (MPLA) initiative.
The MLPA initiative process began in northern California in 2009, affecting areas
offshore of Mendocino, Humboldt and Del Norte counties. Between the Oregon border
and Trinidad, California (Humboldt County) there is one rookery (Southwest Seal Rock)
and eight non-breeding haulouts. Steller sea lions are more abundant on haulouts in
northern California during the late spring and summer months than during the rest of the
year. When Steller sea lions are numerous in the area, their distribution is influenced by
age/sex class and breeding status. Adult males were seen more frequently on in-shore haulouts in both Trinidad and Crescent City, CA in late spring/early summer suggesting
that these haulouts serve as staging areas for breeding or near-breeding aged bulls (Otter
Rock mean = 7 ?? 1, Sea Lion Rock mean = 4 ?? 2, Castle Rock mean = 16 ?? 5). Breeding
Steller sea lion abundance peaked at Southwest Seal Rock during the June and July
pupping and breeding season (mean = 574 ?? 38). Presence of pups peaked at haulouts in
Trinidad the late summer/early fall suggesting that these sites serve as ???nurseries??? for
females and their dependent young (Otter Rock mean = 5 ?? 2, Turtle Rocks mean = 6.3 ??
3). Steller sea lion pups were branded on Southwest Seal Rock in 2002 and 2004 by
Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife (ODFW) and National Marine Mammal Lab
(NMML) as part of a larger population dynamics study. Females from these cohorts are
now actively breeding in northern California, while fewer branded males have come back
to the rookery during breeding season (49 females vs. 18 males). Resights of branded
females were more common than males. Of the 62 branded animals that were seen in
more than one year during the study period, 73% were female. Male Steller sea lions
tended to be resighted farther from the natal site than females. Steller sea lions
frequented many haulouts during a single year and females, in particular, showed fidelity
to the northern California and southern Oregon near shore waters.
Advisors/Committee Members: Goley, Patricia D..
Subjects/Keywords: Steller sea lions; Haulouts; Nearshore management initiatives; Northern California; Southern Oregon; Marine mammals
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❌
APA ·
Chicago ·
MLA ·
Vancouver ·
CSE |
Export
to Zotero / EndNote / Reference
Manager
APA (6th Edition):
Fuller, A. R. (2012). Spatial and temporal distribution, haulout use and movement patterns of Steller sea lions (eumetopias jubatus) in northern California. (Masters Thesis). Humboldt State University. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/2148/1264
Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):
Fuller, Allison R. “Spatial and temporal distribution, haulout use and movement patterns of Steller sea lions (eumetopias jubatus) in northern California.” 2012. Masters Thesis, Humboldt State University. Accessed March 05, 2021.
http://hdl.handle.net/2148/1264.
MLA Handbook (7th Edition):
Fuller, Allison R. “Spatial and temporal distribution, haulout use and movement patterns of Steller sea lions (eumetopias jubatus) in northern California.” 2012. Web. 05 Mar 2021.
Vancouver:
Fuller AR. Spatial and temporal distribution, haulout use and movement patterns of Steller sea lions (eumetopias jubatus) in northern California. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Humboldt State University; 2012. [cited 2021 Mar 05].
Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/2148/1264.
Council of Science Editors:
Fuller AR. Spatial and temporal distribution, haulout use and movement patterns of Steller sea lions (eumetopias jubatus) in northern California. [Masters Thesis]. Humboldt State University; 2012. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/2148/1264

Dalhousie University
28.
Hare, Jenna.
OBSERVATIONS OF THE SPACE-TIME STRUCTURE OF FLOW, VORTICITY
AND STRESS OVER ORBITAL-SCALE RIPPLES.
Degree: MS, Department of Oceanography, 2013, Dalhousie University
URL: http://hdl.handle.net/10222/31138
► The spatial and temporal structure of the flow, vorticity and stress over equilibrium orbital-scale sand ripples are investigated at turbulence-resolving scales with a wide-band coherent…
(more)
▼ The spatial and temporal structure of the flow,
vorticity and stress over equilibrium orbital-scale sand ripples
are investigated at turbulence-resolving scales with a wide-band
coherent Doppler profiler (MFDop) in an oscillating tray apparatus.
The oscillation period and horizontal excursion were 10 s and 0.5
m. Velocity profiles were acquired with 3 mm vertical resolution
and at a 42 Hz sampling rate. Ripple wavelength and amplitude were
25 cm and 2.2 cm. The MFDop measurements are used to investigate
the development of the lee vortex as a function of phase, and the
co-evolution of turbulent kinetic energy, Reynolds stress and
turbulence production. Shear stress is determined from the
vertically-integrated vorticity equation and using the
double-averaging approach. Friction factors obtained from the two
methods are comparable and range from 0.1 to 0.2.
Advisors/Committee Members: Paul Hill (external-examiner), Dan Kelley (graduate-coordinator), Anthony Bowen (thesis-reader), Stephanie Kienast (thesis-reader), Barry Ruddick (thesis-reader), Len Zedel (thesis-reader), Alex Hay (thesis-supervisor), Not Applicable (ethics-approval), Not Applicable (manuscripts), Not Applicable (copyright-release).
Subjects/Keywords: Physical oceanography; Nearshore processes; Bedforms; Oscillatory bottom boundary layers; Bottom shear stress; Coherent Doppler; Turbulence
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APA (6th Edition):
Hare, J. (2013). OBSERVATIONS OF THE SPACE-TIME STRUCTURE OF FLOW, VORTICITY
AND STRESS OVER ORBITAL-SCALE RIPPLES. (Masters Thesis). Dalhousie University. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/10222/31138
Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):
Hare, Jenna. “OBSERVATIONS OF THE SPACE-TIME STRUCTURE OF FLOW, VORTICITY
AND STRESS OVER ORBITAL-SCALE RIPPLES.” 2013. Masters Thesis, Dalhousie University. Accessed March 05, 2021.
http://hdl.handle.net/10222/31138.
MLA Handbook (7th Edition):
Hare, Jenna. “OBSERVATIONS OF THE SPACE-TIME STRUCTURE OF FLOW, VORTICITY
AND STRESS OVER ORBITAL-SCALE RIPPLES.” 2013. Web. 05 Mar 2021.
Vancouver:
Hare J. OBSERVATIONS OF THE SPACE-TIME STRUCTURE OF FLOW, VORTICITY
AND STRESS OVER ORBITAL-SCALE RIPPLES. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Dalhousie University; 2013. [cited 2021 Mar 05].
Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/10222/31138.
Council of Science Editors:
Hare J. OBSERVATIONS OF THE SPACE-TIME STRUCTURE OF FLOW, VORTICITY
AND STRESS OVER ORBITAL-SCALE RIPPLES. [Masters Thesis]. Dalhousie University; 2013. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/10222/31138
29.
Schrijvershof, R.A.
Bedform morphology under combined wave-current conditions in a nearshore environment.
Degree: 2015, Universiteit Utrecht
URL: http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/311427
► The shape and geometry of bedforms in the nearshore zone strongly controls the turbulence and flow field above them, and as such, they determine the…
(more)
▼ The shape and geometry of bedforms in the
nearshore zone strongly controls the turbulence and flow field above them, and as such, they determine the vertical sand concentration profile and with that the magnitude and direction of sediment transport. Understanding the relations between forcing and resultant bathymetry is therefore of crucial importance for coastal modelling purposes. The relationship between forcing and bedforms is, however, less understood for bedforms that are formed under the combined action of waves and currents (combined flows) than for pure waves or currents. To give insight in to the effect of a dynamic
nearshore environment on combined flow bedform geometry, I studied the effect of changing hydrodynamics (within and between tidal cycles) on bedform morphology. Thereby, the accuracy of existing bedform geometry predictors is tested. A one-month measuring campaign was conducted at the beach of Egmond aan Zee to measure hydrodynamics together with small-scale sea-bed bathymetry, using a three-dimensional sonar ripple profiler (3DSRPLS). The sonar-acquired bathymetry images are processed in to Digital Elevation Models (DEMs) and classified in to four different bed states: small-scale 2D ripples, small-scale 3D ripples, large-scale bedforms, and super-positioned bedforms. Results show that a θc – θw bed state stability diagram gives a good segregation of small-scale 2D ripples and large-scale bedforms, that small-scale 3D ripples are stable across a large range of the current strength, and that large-scale bedforms are formed under equal wave and current strengths. Tidal development of hydrodynamics and bedforms shows that bedform height shows a distinct post-high tide arrested development when large scale bedforms develop. This causes a decoupling of forcing and morphology, which is the reason that (a part of) the bedforms are not in equilibrium with the flow. I discuss that this out-of-equilibrium state is the main reason for the dis-ability of the equilibrium predictors to accurately predict bedform geometry. Therefore, future research on
nearshore intertidal environments should specifically pay attention to hysteresis effects and its consequence for predicting geometry.
Advisors/Committee Members: Ruessink, B.G., Kleinhans, M.G..
Subjects/Keywords: Bedforms; nearshore; combined flow; hysteresis
…produced by waves in
the nearshore are symmetric ripples. The bedforms develop in a consistent… …In a nearshore sandy seabed, at ~3 m waterdepth and with a
150 μm median grain diameter… …bedforms
dimensions for ripples in the nearshore zone is demanded for coastal sediment transport…
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❌
APA ·
Chicago ·
MLA ·
Vancouver ·
CSE |
Export
to Zotero / EndNote / Reference
Manager
APA (6th Edition):
Schrijvershof, R. A. (2015). Bedform morphology under combined wave-current conditions in a nearshore environment. (Masters Thesis). Universiteit Utrecht. Retrieved from http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/311427
Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):
Schrijvershof, R A. “Bedform morphology under combined wave-current conditions in a nearshore environment.” 2015. Masters Thesis, Universiteit Utrecht. Accessed March 05, 2021.
http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/311427.
MLA Handbook (7th Edition):
Schrijvershof, R A. “Bedform morphology under combined wave-current conditions in a nearshore environment.” 2015. Web. 05 Mar 2021.
Vancouver:
Schrijvershof RA. Bedform morphology under combined wave-current conditions in a nearshore environment. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Universiteit Utrecht; 2015. [cited 2021 Mar 05].
Available from: http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/311427.
Council of Science Editors:
Schrijvershof RA. Bedform morphology under combined wave-current conditions in a nearshore environment. [Masters Thesis]. Universiteit Utrecht; 2015. Available from: http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/311427

McMaster University
30.
Jetoo, Savitri.
Building Great Lakes Resiliency to Eutrophication: Lessons to inform adaptive governance of the nearshore areas of the Laurentian Great Lakes.
Degree: PhD, 2015, McMaster University
URL: http://hdl.handle.net/11375/18365
► Annex 2 of the Great Lakes Water Quality Protocol calls for the collaborative development of a ‘nearshore framework’, but does not provide guidance with respect…
(more)
▼ Annex 2 of the Great Lakes Water Quality Protocol calls for the collaborative development of a ‘nearshore framework’, but does not provide guidance with respect to nearshore governance. This thesis bridges this gap with a series of studies on the determinants for adaptive governance that will inform implementation of the Great Lakes Water Quality Protocol 2012.
The principal focus of this work is on eutrophication, which is essentially a nearshore issue. The methodology includes a comprehensive literature review and 35 key informant interviews using a standardized questionnaire. The results assess Great Lakes governance, examine the strengths of the Great Lakes Water Quality Agreement Protocol 2012 and evaluate the effectiveness of the International Joint Commission. A major product of the research is the development of a framework for assessing adaptive capacity based on six determinants: public participation, science, networks, leadership, flexibility and resources. The framework is validated in the case study of eutrophication in Lake Erie and used to identify gaps in adaptive capacity for current eutrophication governance of Lake Erie.
The framework was then tested on two additional case studies, the Chesapeake Bay and the Baltic Sea Region. These systems are both eutrophic and are similar in many other ways to the Great Lakes. This allowed exploration of issues of scale, from local (Chesapeake Bay) to binational (the Great lakes) to transnational (the Baltic Sea).
The most important finding of this work is that the key barrier for building adaptive capacity for eutrophication governance in the Great Lakes is the lack of adequate leadership and resources. A key recommendation is therefore that the IJC be strengthened in its role to function as a collaborative leader to foster adaptive capacity. The findings from this research can inform the implementation of the Great Lakes Water Quality Protocol 2012.
Thesis
Doctor of Philosophy (PhD)
Advisors/Committee Members: Krantzberg, Gail, Engineering.
Subjects/Keywords: Great Lakes; eutrophication; nutrient enrichment; resiliency; adaptive governance; adaptive capacity; nearshore areas
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❌
APA ·
Chicago ·
MLA ·
Vancouver ·
CSE |
Export
to Zotero / EndNote / Reference
Manager
APA (6th Edition):
Jetoo, S. (2015). Building Great Lakes Resiliency to Eutrophication: Lessons to inform adaptive governance of the nearshore areas of the Laurentian Great Lakes. (Doctoral Dissertation). McMaster University. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/11375/18365
Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):
Jetoo, Savitri. “Building Great Lakes Resiliency to Eutrophication: Lessons to inform adaptive governance of the nearshore areas of the Laurentian Great Lakes.” 2015. Doctoral Dissertation, McMaster University. Accessed March 05, 2021.
http://hdl.handle.net/11375/18365.
MLA Handbook (7th Edition):
Jetoo, Savitri. “Building Great Lakes Resiliency to Eutrophication: Lessons to inform adaptive governance of the nearshore areas of the Laurentian Great Lakes.” 2015. Web. 05 Mar 2021.
Vancouver:
Jetoo S. Building Great Lakes Resiliency to Eutrophication: Lessons to inform adaptive governance of the nearshore areas of the Laurentian Great Lakes. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. McMaster University; 2015. [cited 2021 Mar 05].
Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/11375/18365.
Council of Science Editors:
Jetoo S. Building Great Lakes Resiliency to Eutrophication: Lessons to inform adaptive governance of the nearshore areas of the Laurentian Great Lakes. [Doctoral Dissertation]. McMaster University; 2015. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/11375/18365
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