subject:(cross shore transport)

Delft University of Technology

1. Knook, P.P. (author). Sediment transport on various depth contours of the 'Holland Coast' shoreface.

Degree: 2013, Delft University of Technology

URL: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:d8a50b34-f755-46ce-acc5-c0692068b6cd

► The scientific foundation to maintain the Holland Coast shoreward of the -20m depth contour is limited. It is assumed that profile perturbations shoreward of the… (more)

▼ The scientific foundation to maintain the Holland Coast shoreward of the -20m depth contour is limited. It is assumed that profile perturbations shoreward of the -20m depth contour influence the coast within a time scale of 50 to 200 years. Hence, seaward of -20m NAP dredging companies are allowed to dredge sand. The dredged material is amongst others applied in nourishments near the beach. In order to naturally preserve the shoreface of the Dutch Coast, coastal policy in The Netherlands prescribes that the sediment volume of Holland Coast should be preserved shoreward of the -20m depth contour. The volume required to accomplish this can be significantly reduced in case a shallower depth contour can be assumed. In order to investigate the influence of perturbations shoreward of -20m NAP and to validate the scientific foundation of the -20m depth contour, cross-shore sediment transport on various depth contours will be analysed. The emphasis of this research will lie on sediment transport on the lower shoreface (deeper than -10m NAP). Sediment transport will be evaluated with the model Unibest-TC. First, sediment transport sensitivity on a straight slope due to varying parameters (wave height, wave period, grain size, slope steepness, water depth and magnitude of Longuet-Higgins streaming) is analysed. Besides, non-dimensional numbers and transport equations were considered to extend the analysis. In the analysis the dominance, direction and magnitude of the wave related and current related transport of both the bed load and suspended load is investigated. Subsequently, sediment transport due to variable wave conditions on various depth contours is examined from the shoreface profile of Noordwijk. Also the situations with a variable wave angle and a tidal current was considered. Finally, morphological simulations, including a 100-year profile evolution and profile perturbations (e.g. sand pits) located on the lower shoreface, were performed. Shoreface sediment transport depends on the wave steepness in combination with the slope steepness for every depth contour. This was concluded by analysing sediment transport sensitivity for a range of parameter settings. Sediment transport due to wave action is particular present on the upper shoreface. Although, the onshore directed bed load transport is dominant on the lower shoreface (provided that the orbital velocity induced shear stress exceeds the critical shear stress), its relative contributions is negligible in case a tidal current is included. It was found that low amplitude waves are responsible for the largest profile changes. On the lower shoreface, the tidal current induced offshore sediment transport is dominant. Onshore transport on the upper shoreface and offshore transport on the lower shoreface induce a lower shoreface flattening and an upper shoreface steepening. Perturbations located at the -15m, -20m and -25m NAP depth contours propagate shoreward caused by tidal current induced concentration gradients. Sediment transport induced by waves result in… Advisors/Committee Members: Stive, M.J.F. (mentor), Walstra, D.J.R. (mentor), Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M. (mentor), Van der Spek, A.J.F. (mentor), Storms, J.A.E. (mentor).

Subjects/Keywords: Cross-shore sediment transport; shoreface; Unibest-TC; Profile perturbations; Holland Coast

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APA (6^th Edition):

Knook, P. P. (. (2013). Sediment transport on various depth contours of the 'Holland Coast' shoreface. (Masters Thesis). Delft University of Technology. Retrieved from http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:d8a50b34-f755-46ce-acc5-c0692068b6cd

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Knook, P P (author). “Sediment transport on various depth contours of the 'Holland Coast' shoreface.” 2013. Masters Thesis, Delft University of Technology. Accessed March 03, 2021. http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:d8a50b34-f755-46ce-acc5-c0692068b6cd.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Knook, P P (author). “Sediment transport on various depth contours of the 'Holland Coast' shoreface.” 2013. Web. 03 Mar 2021.

Vancouver:

Knook PP(. Sediment transport on various depth contours of the 'Holland Coast' shoreface. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2013. [cited 2021 Mar 03]. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:d8a50b34-f755-46ce-acc5-c0692068b6cd.

Council of Science Editors:

Knook PP(. Sediment transport on various depth contours of the 'Holland Coast' shoreface. [Masters Thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2013. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:d8a50b34-f755-46ce-acc5-c0692068b6cd

Delft University of Technology

2. Nipius, K.G. (author). Dwarstransportmodellering m.b.v. Bailard, toegepast op de Voordelta Grevelingen monding.

Degree: 1998, Delft University of Technology

URL: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:4935c303-0bc5-4694-8d80-5c876d29813f

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De belangstelling voor het gebruik van de (natte) kustzone en de Noordzee als bouwlocatie is de laatste jaren sterk toegenomen. Zowel initiatiefnemers als de overheid… (more)

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De belangstelling voor het gebruik van de (natte) kustzone en de Noordzee als bouwlocatie is de laatste jaren sterk toegenomen. Zowel initiatiefnemers als de overheid zijn erbij gebaat dat effecten van de aanleg van kustplannen in voldoende mate kunnen worden voorspeld. De recente toename in belangstelling voor de lange termijn effecten in de morfologie heeft de ontwikkeling van morfologische modellen een enorme versnelling gegeven. Dit is de reden om studies uit te voeren naar geschiktheid van het modelinstrumentarium voor morfologische voorspellingen op lange termijn. Ook dwarstransportmodellering heeft daarbij de aandacht. Dwarstransporten spelen een belangrijke rol in de zandverdeling van een kustprofiel en zullen, hoe klein ook, zich op den duur uiten in een verandering van de kustlijnligging. In deze afstudeeropdracht wordt de bruikbaarheid van de dwarstransportformulering van Bailard onderzocht voor toepassing in een morfologisch 2D-model. Bailard beschrijft met zijn formulering niet alleen het transport in de gemiddelde stroomrichting, maar ook een asymmetrie-component in de golfvoortplantingsrichting. Ook wordt een transportcomponent veroorzaakt door de bodemhelling meegenomen. In dit afstudeeronderzoek is een 1D- of raaimodel uitgewerkt voor het modelleren van dwarstransport volgens de transportformule van Bailard. Met het 1D-model worden evenwichtsprofielen berekend en vergeleken met een profiel bij Delfland. Een evenwichtsprofiel kan worden gedefinieerd als een dwarsprofiel met een constante vorm die bereikt wordt wanneer het wordt blootgesteld aan constante golfhoogten en waterhoogten voor een onbepaald lange tijd. Er wordt dus geeist dat het tijdsgemiddeld transport overal in het profiel nul is. Met het 1D-model worden ook bodembewegingen berekend. Bij een bepaald golfbeeld en bodemligging berekent het 1D-model het lokale dwarstransport waaruit een nieuwe bodemligging wordt berekend. Op deze manier kan de bodemontwikkeling in de tijd gesimuleerd worden. Dit wordt toegepast op een raai dwars op de kust in het gebied Voordelta Grevelingen-monding. Om de juiste resultaten te verkrijgen voor het berekenen van het evenwichtsprofiel en de bodembeweging, blijkt onderlinge afregeling van de transporten door golfasymmetrie, (retour)stroom en bodemhelling nodig. Uit deze studie worden onder meer de volgende conclusies getrokken: - de verhouding tussen de transporten door golfasymmetrie en retourstroom is bepalend voor de vorm van een profiel, - het transport door de bodemhelling heeft weinig invloed op de vorm van het profiel, maar wel op de lengte-schaal van het profiel, - het onderzoek van het evenwichtsprofiel en de bodemontwikkeling geeft bij gebruik van het 1D-model geen eenduidig oordeel over de juiste afregeling van de aandelen in het totale transport. Gedetailleerder onderzoek in een 2D-model zal uitsluitsel moeten geven over de juiste afregeling van de aandelen in het totale dwarstransport.

Hydraulic Engineering

Civil Engineering and Geosciences

Advisors/Committee Members: Van de Graaff, J. (mentor), Roelvink, J.A. (mentor), Groenendijk, F.C. (mentor), Huisman, P. (mentor), Stive, M.J.F. (mentor).

Subjects/Keywords: cross shore transport; sediment tranport

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Nipius, K. G. (. (1998). Dwarstransportmodellering m.b.v. Bailard, toegepast op de Voordelta Grevelingen monding. (Masters Thesis). Delft University of Technology. Retrieved from http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:4935c303-0bc5-4694-8d80-5c876d29813f

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Nipius, K G (author). “Dwarstransportmodellering m.b.v. Bailard, toegepast op de Voordelta Grevelingen monding.” 1998. Masters Thesis, Delft University of Technology. Accessed March 03, 2021. http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:4935c303-0bc5-4694-8d80-5c876d29813f.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Nipius, K G (author). “Dwarstransportmodellering m.b.v. Bailard, toegepast op de Voordelta Grevelingen monding.” 1998. Web. 03 Mar 2021.

Vancouver:

Nipius KG(. Dwarstransportmodellering m.b.v. Bailard, toegepast op de Voordelta Grevelingen monding. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 1998. [cited 2021 Mar 03]. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:4935c303-0bc5-4694-8d80-5c876d29813f.

Council of Science Editors:

Nipius KG(. Dwarstransportmodellering m.b.v. Bailard, toegepast op de Voordelta Grevelingen monding. [Masters Thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 1998. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:4935c303-0bc5-4694-8d80-5c876d29813f

Universiteit Utrecht

3. Witteveen, M. Cross-shore suspended sediment transport and morphological response on a beach plain during fair weather conditions and during a storm event at The Slufter, Texel.

Degree: 2012, Universiteit Utrecht

URL: http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/234114

► Cross-shore suspended sediment transports were studied at a transect over a beach plain in a small tidal inlet system The Slufter located on the barrier… (more)

Subjects/Keywords: Geowetenschappen; suspended sediment; cross-shore transport; morphodynamics; horizontal cell circulation; overwash processes

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Witteveen, M. (2012). Cross-shore suspended sediment transport and morphological response on a beach plain during fair weather conditions and during a storm event at The Slufter, Texel. (Masters Thesis). Universiteit Utrecht. Retrieved from http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/234114

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Witteveen, M. “Cross-shore suspended sediment transport and morphological response on a beach plain during fair weather conditions and during a storm event at The Slufter, Texel.” 2012. Masters Thesis, Universiteit Utrecht. Accessed March 03, 2021. http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/234114.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Witteveen, M. “Cross-shore suspended sediment transport and morphological response on a beach plain during fair weather conditions and during a storm event at The Slufter, Texel.” 2012. Web. 03 Mar 2021.

Vancouver:

Witteveen M. Cross-shore suspended sediment transport and morphological response on a beach plain during fair weather conditions and during a storm event at The Slufter, Texel. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Universiteit Utrecht; 2012. [cited 2021 Mar 03]. Available from: http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/234114.

Council of Science Editors:

Witteveen M. Cross-shore suspended sediment transport and morphological response on a beach plain during fair weather conditions and during a storm event at The Slufter, Texel. [Masters Thesis]. Universiteit Utrecht; 2012. Available from: http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/234114

Delft University of Technology

4. Zhou, Z. (author). Feasibility study of a coupled numerical model for longshore sediment transport and beach response.

Degree: 2011, Delft University of Technology

URL: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:8afd36fd-5e6c-4140-a14e-ab23c7aa5646

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As a good rule of thumb, one-line models have been in use for a wide range of coastal projects for the past 30 years to… (more)

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As a good rule of thumb, one-line models have been in use for a wide range of coastal projects for the past 30 years to predict the beach morphological change and make the appropriate shoreline management plans. Though applied to many coastal sites with certain success, these models are still under further development so as to achieve better predictions. Hence, this research aims to extend a state-of-the-art one-line model (BEACHPLAN) in terms of longshore sediment transport rate by linking with a cross-shore profile model (COSMOS) through the OpenMI-based Pipistrelle platform. To couple these two existing models, three additional modules (i.e. Drift Interpolation module, Vector-To-Scalar module and Orientation Updating module) are developed. The existing two models and the three new modules work together as a whole composition (i.e. the coupled model) which aims to improve the one-line model in terms of longshore sediment transport and morphological response predictability. This coupled model calculates the longshore sediment transport rate based on both the modified CERC-formula and the Energetics approach. It is tested at an idealized straight coast and at Poole Bay, UK. This demonstrates that the model is numerically stable, effective in computing and able to give reasonable predictions of the shoreline morphological change. Hence, this dissertation shows that linking the existing models rather than developing completely new models is a potentially interesting research direction that is both economical and feasible to achieve. Some further developments of the model are also suggested. However, it is currently too early to reach the conclusion that the coupled model is better than the original one-line model since few validations have been made due to the limitations of field data and research time. Meanwhile, the working principle behind the coupled model needs further exploration and re-examination before a sound conclusion can be made. Therefore, the outcome of this research at this stage can be more precisely recognized as a proof of concept which demonstrates that it is theoretically reasonable and technically feasible to couple the one-line model and cross-shore profile model so as to realize practitioners’ certain requirements.

CoMEM - Coastal and Marine Engineering and Management

Section Hydraulic Engineering

Civil Engineering and Geosciences

Advisors/Committee Members: Stive, M.J.F. (mentor), Nicholls, R.J. (mentor), Blanco, B. (mentor).

Subjects/Keywords: Longshore sediment transport; One-line model; Cross-shore profile model; OpenMI standard; Numerical model

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Zhou, Z. (. (2011). Feasibility study of a coupled numerical model for longshore sediment transport and beach response. (Masters Thesis). Delft University of Technology. Retrieved from http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:8afd36fd-5e6c-4140-a14e-ab23c7aa5646

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Zhou, Z (author). “Feasibility study of a coupled numerical model for longshore sediment transport and beach response.” 2011. Masters Thesis, Delft University of Technology. Accessed March 03, 2021. http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:8afd36fd-5e6c-4140-a14e-ab23c7aa5646.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Zhou, Z (author). “Feasibility study of a coupled numerical model for longshore sediment transport and beach response.” 2011. Web. 03 Mar 2021.

Vancouver:

Zhou Z(. Feasibility study of a coupled numerical model for longshore sediment transport and beach response. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2011. [cited 2021 Mar 03]. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:8afd36fd-5e6c-4140-a14e-ab23c7aa5646.

Council of Science Editors:

Zhou Z(. Feasibility study of a coupled numerical model for longshore sediment transport and beach response. [Masters Thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2011. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:8afd36fd-5e6c-4140-a14e-ab23c7aa5646

Delft University of Technology

5. Spaans, Lennard (author). Cross-shore morphodynamics of intertidal bars: A conceptual model, empirical evidence and numerical modelling.

Degree: 2019, Delft University of Technology

URL: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:7f0fe44f-4f8a-44b7-9bbd-23043e1a8e68

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The beach recovery process determines the resilience of a sandy coast and is an important aspect of the coastal safety. Sediment stored underwater due to… (more)

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The beach recovery process determines the resilience of a sandy coast and is an important aspect of the coastal safety. Sediment stored underwater due to storms is transported onshore by the migration of subtidal and intertidal bars under mild wave conditions. The intertidal zone is an im-portant interface, connecting the marine and aeolian zone and facilitating the transition of hydro-dynamic to aeolian sediment transport. The aim of this study is to investigate the cross-shore mor-phodynamics of intertidal sandbars. The dominant cross-shore sediment transport processes can mainly be divided into surf zone and swash zone processes. The surf zone processes are primarily determined by the balance of wave nonlinearities, undertow and infra-gravity waves. In the swash zone, the cross-shore sediment transport is determined by the balance between the turbulent uprush and the gravity induced backwash. A recent terrestrial laser scanning (TLS) measuring campaign conducted at Kijkduin, the Nether-lands, provided new insight in the intertidal bar behavior. The results of one cross section are ana-lyzed. In a period of 6 weeks, two distinctive intertidal bars formed, grew and migrated onshore during mild wave conditions and eventually eroded again during a storm. Within 5 days, the upper intertidal bar migrated onshore over a distance of 25m and grew with a height of 0.3m, attributed to swash zone processes. Onshore sediment transport fluxes reached values of nearly 2 m3 per meter width in one tidal cycle. The findings are compared with two XBeach models (surf beat model and hydrostatic swash model) which are used to reproduce the observed morphological behavior of the upper intertidal bar. Both models partly reproduce the onshore migration but show deviating results regarding the final growth of the intertidal bar. In contrast to the surf beat model, the morphological changes in the hydrostatic swash model are primarily induced by swash zone processes, which is comparable to the processes in the TLS measurements. Finally, a conceptual model is developed in which four intertidal bar regimes are classified based on the tidal water level. The distinction determines the dominant cross-shore processes for the for-mation, migration, growth and destruction of intertidal bars. The model shows that the swash zone processes are dominant for the onshore migration and growth of intertidal bars in the overwash regime, while the surf zone processes are dominant in the submersion regime. The findings presented in this study provide a better understanding of the intertidal bar behavior. Although the XBeach models did not reproduce the observed behavior completely, there are some pronounced similarities. Further research is required to increase the knowledge of intertidal bar behavior at a variety of sandy coasts and to improve the performance of rocesses-based models like XBeach.

Civil Engineering | Hydraulic Engineering

Advisors/Committee Members: Vos, Sander (mentor), Reniers, Ad (graduation committee), de Vries, Sierd (graduation committee), McCall, Robert (graduation committee), Delft University of Technology (degree granting institution).

Subjects/Keywords: intertidal sandbars; cross-shore sediment transport; conceptual model; terrestrial laser scanning; XBeach

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APA (6^th Edition):

Spaans, L. (. (2019). Cross-shore morphodynamics of intertidal bars: A conceptual model, empirical evidence and numerical modelling. (Masters Thesis). Delft University of Technology. Retrieved from http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:7f0fe44f-4f8a-44b7-9bbd-23043e1a8e68

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Spaans, Lennard (author). “Cross-shore morphodynamics of intertidal bars: A conceptual model, empirical evidence and numerical modelling.” 2019. Masters Thesis, Delft University of Technology. Accessed March 03, 2021. http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:7f0fe44f-4f8a-44b7-9bbd-23043e1a8e68.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Spaans, Lennard (author). “Cross-shore morphodynamics of intertidal bars: A conceptual model, empirical evidence and numerical modelling.” 2019. Web. 03 Mar 2021.

Vancouver:

Spaans L(. Cross-shore morphodynamics of intertidal bars: A conceptual model, empirical evidence and numerical modelling. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2019. [cited 2021 Mar 03]. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:7f0fe44f-4f8a-44b7-9bbd-23043e1a8e68.

Council of Science Editors:

Spaans L(. Cross-shore morphodynamics of intertidal bars: A conceptual model, empirical evidence and numerical modelling. [Masters Thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2019. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:7f0fe44f-4f8a-44b7-9bbd-23043e1a8e68

Delft University of Technology

6. Hop, M. (author). The impact of the Rhine ROFI on the alongshore variability in cross-shore sediment transport of the Holland coast.

Degree: 2017, Delft University of Technology

URL: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:cc6049ef-aefe-4e39-988a-06bb46a0f874

► The Rhine ROFI ( region of freshwater influence) is a dynamic area where various processes and timescales come together. Research has shown that stratification caused… (more)

Subjects/Keywords: Rhine ROFI; sediment transport; Delft3D; D-Flow-FM; cross-shore transport; numerical modelling; salinity; tidal ellipses; Holland coast

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Hop, M. (. (2017). The impact of the Rhine ROFI on the alongshore variability in cross-shore sediment transport of the Holland coast. (Masters Thesis). Delft University of Technology. Retrieved from http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:cc6049ef-aefe-4e39-988a-06bb46a0f874

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Hop, M (author). “The impact of the Rhine ROFI on the alongshore variability in cross-shore sediment transport of the Holland coast.” 2017. Masters Thesis, Delft University of Technology. Accessed March 03, 2021. http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:cc6049ef-aefe-4e39-988a-06bb46a0f874.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Hop, M (author). “The impact of the Rhine ROFI on the alongshore variability in cross-shore sediment transport of the Holland coast.” 2017. Web. 03 Mar 2021.

Vancouver:

Hop M(. The impact of the Rhine ROFI on the alongshore variability in cross-shore sediment transport of the Holland coast. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2017. [cited 2021 Mar 03]. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:cc6049ef-aefe-4e39-988a-06bb46a0f874.

Council of Science Editors:

Hop M(. The impact of the Rhine ROFI on the alongshore variability in cross-shore sediment transport of the Holland coast. [Masters Thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2017. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:cc6049ef-aefe-4e39-988a-06bb46a0f874

7. Robinet, Arthur. Modélisation de l’évolution long-terme du trait de côte le long des littoraux sableux dominés par l’action des vagues : Modeling of long-term shoreline evolution along wave-dominated sandy coasts.

Degree: Docteur es, Physique de l'environnement, 2017, Bordeaux

URL: http://www.theses.fr/2017BORD0946

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Les littoraux sableux dominés par l'action des vagues sont des zones très dynamiques où l'aléa érosion menace les activités humaines et la sécurité des personnes.… (more)

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Les littoraux sableux dominés par l'action des vagues sont des zones très dynamiques où l'aléa érosion menace les activités humaines et la sécurité des personnes. Comprendre et prévoir les évolutions du trait de côte est crucial pour informer et guider les gestionnaires du littoral. Actuellement, aucun modèle numérique ne permet de reproduire les évolutions du trait de côte sur l'ensemble des échelles spatio-temporelles et des configurations de côte requises du fait de limitations numériques et physiques. Cette thèse se concentre sur le développement de nouveaux outils de modélisation à complexité réduite pour simuler les évolutions du trait de côte le long des littoraux sableux dominés par l'action des vagues sur des échelles de temps allant de l'heure à plusieurs décennies avec des temps de calcul réduits. D'abord, un modèle statistique de trait de côte s'appuyant uniquement sur les occurrences saisonnières de régimes de temps est développé. Ce modèle permet de simuler la variabilité du trait de côte à l'échelle pluriannuelle, sans avoir besoin de connaitre les conditions de vagues ou de modéliser le transport sédimentaire. Puis, un nouveau modèle numérique de trait de côte basé sur les vagues (LX-Shore) est développé en intégrant entre autres les forces de certains modèles existants. Il inclut les processus cross-shore et longshore, et couple la dynamique du trait de côte à la propagation des vagues via le modèle spectral de vagues SWAN. Ce modèle permet de simuler l'évolution de formes complexes comme par exemple les flèches sableuses. Ces outils ouvrent aussi la voie vers une meilleure évaluation des évolutions futures du trait de côte, ainsi que de la contribution respective des processus impliqués.

Wave-dominated sandy coasts are highly dynamic and populated systems increasingly threatened by erosion hazard. Understanding and predicting shoreline change is critical to inform and guide stakeholders. However, there is currently no numerical model able to reproduce and predict shoreline evolution over the full range of temporal scales and coastal geometries owing to numerical and physical limitations. This thesis focuses on the development of new reduced-complexity models to simulate shoreline change along wave-dominated sandy coasts on the timescales from hours to decades with low computation time. First, a statistical shoreline change model based on the seasonal occurrences of some oceanic basin weather regimes is developed. This model allows simulating shoreline variability at the seasonal and interannual scales, without resorting to wave data or sediment transport modeling. Second, a new so-called LX-Shore numerical wave-driven shoreline change model is developed, which takes the best from some existing models and includes additional numerical and physical developments. LX-Shore couples the primary longshore and cross-shore processes and includes the feedback of shoreline and bathymetric evolution on the wave field using a spectral wave model. LX-Shore successfully simulates the dynamics of coastal…

Advisors/Committee Members: Castelle, Bruno (thesis director), Idier, Déborah (thesis director).

Subjects/Keywords: Évolution du trait de côte; Modélisation long-terme; Complexité réduite; Transport longshore; Transport cross-shore; Régimes de temps; Shoreline change; Long-term modeling; Reduced-complexity; Longshore transport; Cross-shore transport; Weather regimes

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Robinet, A. (2017). Modélisation de l’évolution long-terme du trait de côte le long des littoraux sableux dominés par l’action des vagues : Modeling of long-term shoreline evolution along wave-dominated sandy coasts. (Doctoral Dissertation). Bordeaux. Retrieved from http://www.theses.fr/2017BORD0946

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Robinet, Arthur. “Modélisation de l’évolution long-terme du trait de côte le long des littoraux sableux dominés par l’action des vagues : Modeling of long-term shoreline evolution along wave-dominated sandy coasts.” 2017. Doctoral Dissertation, Bordeaux. Accessed March 03, 2021. http://www.theses.fr/2017BORD0946.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Robinet, Arthur. “Modélisation de l’évolution long-terme du trait de côte le long des littoraux sableux dominés par l’action des vagues : Modeling of long-term shoreline evolution along wave-dominated sandy coasts.” 2017. Web. 03 Mar 2021.

Vancouver:

Robinet A. Modélisation de l’évolution long-terme du trait de côte le long des littoraux sableux dominés par l’action des vagues : Modeling of long-term shoreline evolution along wave-dominated sandy coasts. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. Bordeaux; 2017. [cited 2021 Mar 03]. Available from: http://www.theses.fr/2017BORD0946.

Council of Science Editors:

Robinet A. Modélisation de l’évolution long-terme du trait de côte le long des littoraux sableux dominés par l’action des vagues : Modeling of long-term shoreline evolution along wave-dominated sandy coasts. [Doctoral Dissertation]. Bordeaux; 2017. Available from: http://www.theses.fr/2017BORD0946

University of Washington

8. Flores, Raul Pedro. The dynamics of cross-shore sediment transport in the Rhine region of freshwater influence.

Degree: PhD, 2018, University of Washington

URL: http://hdl.handle.net/1773/43006

► River plumes are critical to the exchange of suspended particulate matter (SPM) between nearshore regions and shelf seas. These exchanges contribute fundamentally to the health… (more)

▼ River plumes are critical to the exchange of suspended particulate matter (SPM) between nearshore regions and shelf seas. These exchanges contribute fundamentally to the health and function of the coastal ecosystem, and have important implications for the overall sediment and biomass budgets. The physical processes that determine these exchanges depend on the dynamical characteristics of the river plume, which are largely affected by the freshwater input, water depth and the tidal flow, among many other factors. Here, we present field measurements and numerical modeling of hydrodynamics and sediment transport in order to investigate the dynamics of cross-shore exchange processes along a shallow river plume system. Measurements from moorings and bottom frames along the Rhine region of freshwater influence (ROFI) are used to evaluate the importance of baroclinic (stratified) and barotropic (unstratified) dynamics on the cross-shore transport of fine sediments, in a site located 10 km north of the river mouth. These measurements allowed for the evaluation of sediment transport dynamics over a wide range of stratification, wind, wave and tidal conditions. Both barotropic and baroclinic processes are found to be relevant for the cross-shore transport of fines at depth. The observations suggest that wind and wave-driven transport during storms tends to move fine sediment offshore, while calmer, more stratified conditions move it back onshore. Data collected during an intense 2-day storm are used to document the occurrence of a wave-supported gravity flow (WSGF) in a shallow inner shelf site along the Rhine ROFI. These observations are the first to document a WSGF on a predominantly sandy environment; previous observations had been restricted to muddy shelf deposits with very fine particle size distributions. The observed WSGF dynamics support previous studies regarding the use of a friction-buoyancy balance, and suggest that the same balance can be used on sandy seabeds. The offshore transport associated with the WSGF was much higher than other modes of transport, such as the suspended transport in the upper water column or the bedload, highlighting the importance of these events to cross-shelf transport and morphological evolution on inner-shelf regions. The occurrence of a WSGF under conditions unique from previous observations suggest that WSGF may occur in a much wider range of shelf locations than previously thought. In the Rhine, the tidal flow interacts with the cross-shore density gradients to generate tidal straining. The influence of tidal straining in the generation of a turbidity maximum zone (TMZ) along the Rhine ROFI is investigated using idealized numerical simulations. Tidal straining leads to cross-shore sediment convergence and the formation of a nearshore TMZ, that is detached from the coastline and confined to the near-bed region. Subtidal landward sediment fluxes are created by asymmetries in vertical mixing between the stratifying and de-stratifying phases of the tidal cycle. Model simulations show… Advisors/Committee Members: Horner-Devine, Alexander R (advisor).

Subjects/Keywords: cross-shore transport; Rhine; River plume; Sediment; tidal straining; Civil engineering; Environmental engineering; Marine geology; Civil engineering

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Flores, R. P. (2018). The dynamics of cross-shore sediment transport in the Rhine region of freshwater influence. (Doctoral Dissertation). University of Washington. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/1773/43006

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Flores, Raul Pedro. “The dynamics of cross-shore sediment transport in the Rhine region of freshwater influence.” 2018. Doctoral Dissertation, University of Washington. Accessed March 03, 2021. http://hdl.handle.net/1773/43006.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Flores, Raul Pedro. “The dynamics of cross-shore sediment transport in the Rhine region of freshwater influence.” 2018. Web. 03 Mar 2021.

Vancouver:

Flores RP. The dynamics of cross-shore sediment transport in the Rhine region of freshwater influence. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. University of Washington; 2018. [cited 2021 Mar 03]. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1773/43006.

Council of Science Editors:

Flores RP. The dynamics of cross-shore sediment transport in the Rhine region of freshwater influence. [Doctoral Dissertation]. University of Washington; 2018. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1773/43006

Delft University of Technology

9. Van der Kraan, M. (author). Versteiling van de Hollandse Kust.

Degree: 1999, Delft University of Technology

URL: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:5e992ccf-a120-4001-b728-5eb2c084cb74

►

Deze afstudeeropdracht betreft het onderzoek naar het mogelijke versteilen van de Hollandse kust. Het versteilen van de kust is het verdiepingsverschijnsel waarbij de dieptelijnen kustwaarts… (more)

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Deze afstudeeropdracht betreft het onderzoek naar het mogelijke versteilen van de Hollandse kust. Het versteilen van de kust is het verdiepingsverschijnsel waarbij de dieptelijnen kustwaarts verschuiven. Deze verschuivingen van de dieptelijnen gaan gepaard met zandverlies op dieper water waardoor het kustprofielletterlijk steiler wordt. Dit verdiepingsverschijnsel wordt in het onderzoek gedefmieerd als "versteiling van de kust". Uitspraken met betrekking tot het versteilen van het kustprofiel bepalen in grote mate het te hanteren handhavingsbeleid van de kustlijn. Verkeerde conclusies daarover kunnen ernstige gevolgen met zich meebrengen. Het verdiepen van het bodemprofiel op dieper water kan samen met het kustwaarts verschuiven van de dieptelijnen in de toekomst leiden tot toenemende erosie op de ondiepe oever en het strandgedeeite langs de gehele Hollandse kust. In hoeverre werkelijke verdieping optreedt is aan de hand van de beschikbare metingen van het diepe kustgedeeite onderzocht. De beschikbare metingen van het diepe kustgedeeite zijn de doorlodingen. Voor het afleiden van de verdiepingstrends is gebruik gemaakt van een lineaire trendanalyse, waarbij de trendlijnen zijn berekend uit de doorlodingen via de kleinste kwadraten methode. Dit zijn de oorspronkelijke trends die direct zijn afgeleid uit de doorlodingen. In dit onderzoek is een analyse gemaakt van de grootte en het karakter van de meetfouten in de doorlodingsgegevens. Op basis hiervan is vervolgens onderzocht wat de invloed van deze meetfouten is op de betrouwbaarheid van uitspraken over mogelijk optredende kustversteiling. Het onderzoek is gedaan op basis van doorlodingsgegevens, met 8 meetwaarnemingen over de periode van 1965 tot 1997. Met behulp van simulaties, gebaseerd op de statistische karakteristieken van de meetfouten in de doorlodingen, worden nieuwe meetwaarden gegenereerd. Door middel van de simulaties kunnen de verdiepingstrends opnieuw uit deze meetwaarden worden afgeleid. Bij het simuleren van nieuwe meetwaarden wordt rekening gehouden met de meetfout in de doorlodingen. De vraag hierbij is of de opnieuw berekende trends de oorspronkelijke trends benaderen.

Hydraulic Engineering

Civil Engineering and Geosciences

Advisors/Committee Members: Van de Graaff, J. (mentor), Stam, J.M. (mentor), Van Gelder, P.H.A.J.M. (mentor), D' Angremond, K. (mentor).

Subjects/Keywords: coastal morphology; cross shore transport; coastal steepening

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Van der Kraan, M. (. (1999). Versteiling van de Hollandse Kust. (Masters Thesis). Delft University of Technology. Retrieved from http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:5e992ccf-a120-4001-b728-5eb2c084cb74

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Van der Kraan, M (author). “Versteiling van de Hollandse Kust.” 1999. Masters Thesis, Delft University of Technology. Accessed March 03, 2021. http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:5e992ccf-a120-4001-b728-5eb2c084cb74.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Van der Kraan, M (author). “Versteiling van de Hollandse Kust.” 1999. Web. 03 Mar 2021.

Vancouver:

Van der Kraan M(. Versteiling van de Hollandse Kust. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 1999. [cited 2021 Mar 03]. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:5e992ccf-a120-4001-b728-5eb2c084cb74.

Council of Science Editors:

Van der Kraan M(. Versteiling van de Hollandse Kust. [Masters Thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 1999. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:5e992ccf-a120-4001-b728-5eb2c084cb74

Delft University of Technology

10. Dijk, M. (author). Vergelijking UNIBEST-TC en DUROSTA: Twee tijdsafhankelijke dwarstransportmodellen.

Degree: 2002, Delft University of Technology

URL: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:b9692e93-6e94-4182-a7c1-c0776cc56150

►

Voor de berekening van de grootte van het dwarstransport zijn momenteel in Nederland twee computermodellen in gebruik, te weten UNISEST-TC en DUROSTA. UNISEST-TC is ontwikkeld… (more)

Subjects/Keywords: cross shore transport; dune erosion; coastal stability

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APA (6^th Edition):

Dijk, M. (. (2002). Vergelijking UNIBEST-TC en DUROSTA: Twee tijdsafhankelijke dwarstransportmodellen. (Masters Thesis). Delft University of Technology. Retrieved from http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:b9692e93-6e94-4182-a7c1-c0776cc56150

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Dijk, M (author). “Vergelijking UNIBEST-TC en DUROSTA: Twee tijdsafhankelijke dwarstransportmodellen.” 2002. Masters Thesis, Delft University of Technology. Accessed March 03, 2021. http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:b9692e93-6e94-4182-a7c1-c0776cc56150.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Dijk, M (author). “Vergelijking UNIBEST-TC en DUROSTA: Twee tijdsafhankelijke dwarstransportmodellen.” 2002. Web. 03 Mar 2021.

Vancouver:

Dijk M(. Vergelijking UNIBEST-TC en DUROSTA: Twee tijdsafhankelijke dwarstransportmodellen. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2002. [cited 2021 Mar 03]. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:b9692e93-6e94-4182-a7c1-c0776cc56150.

Council of Science Editors:

Dijk M(. Vergelijking UNIBEST-TC en DUROSTA: Twee tijdsafhankelijke dwarstransportmodellen. [Masters Thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2002. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:b9692e93-6e94-4182-a7c1-c0776cc56150

Delft University of Technology

11. Koeman, A.H. (author). Lagen modellen, bepalen van dwarstransportcoëfficienten.

Degree: 1998, Delft University of Technology

URL: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:484ca662-efae-48eb-ae31-e68a76367f59

► Een groot deel van de Nederlandse kust bestaat uit zand, waardoor de ligging van de kust niet vast is, maar constant in beweging is onder… (more)

▼ Een groot deel van de Nederlandse kust bestaat uit zand, waardoor de ligging van de kust niet vast is, maar constant in beweging is onder invloed van wind, golven en stromingen. Om de (zandige) kust goed te beheren is het nodig dat voorspeld kan worden wat er met de kust in de toekomst gaat gebeuren, door verschillende klimatologische veranderingen en/of menselijke ingrepen. Een voorspelling op korte termijn (1 jaar) is wel te maken met huidige modellen, maar voorspellingen op lange termijn (20 it 100 jaar) zijn met de huidige modellen nog niet goed te maken. Daarom wordt er onderzoek verricht naar modellen die (mogelijk) geschikt zijn voor het modelleren van lange termijn etfecten. Een geschikt model voor het modelleren van dwarstransporten lijkt het lagen-model. Omdat dit een eenvoudig model is, kan het goed gecombineerd worden met modelien voor de langstransporten. Het nadeel is dat er gebruik wordt gemaakt van dwarstransportcoefticienten, die lastig zijn te bepalen. In dit rapport wordt het onderzoek beschreven naar de invloed van de lagenindeling en het 'type' verstoring op de grootte van deze coefticienten. Het onderzoek is verricht voor een 2-lagen-model, bij een constant golfveld met een significante golfhoogte van 3 m. Uit verschillende simulaties is gebleken dat de grootte van de verstoring, zoals verwacht, geen invloed heeft op de waarde van de dwarstransportcoefficienten. Verder blijkt dat bij verstoringen die een zeewaarts gericht transport veroorzaken, een grotere waarde van de coefficient hoort, dan bij verstoringen die landwaarts gericht transport veroorzaken. Als de richting van het transport gelijk blijft, dan zijn de waarden voor de coefficienten bij een suppletie groter dan bij een ontgraving. Als de helling (van een groot deel) van het profiel wordt veranderd zijn de waarden van de coefficient kleiner dan bij lokale verstoringen, zoals suppleties en ontgravingen. Uit het onderzoek kan geen kwantitatieve relatie tussen de dwarstransportcoefficienten en de verschillende verstoringen worden afgeleid, maar de invloed van de verstoringen kan wel kwalitatiefworden beschreven. Omdat er met een golfhoogte in een 2-lagenmodel is gerekend, zal het onderzoek verder moeten worden uitgebreid, zodat ook de invloed van de golfhoogte en meerdere lagen beschreven kan worden. Om niet voor elke golfhoogte een ander evenwichtsprofiel te hoeven bepalen, wordt aanbevolen om een evenwichtsprofiel te kiezen voor een wisselend golfveld en daarvoor de coefficient(en) te bepalen. Bij een meer-Iagen-model, zijn ook meer coefficienten nodig, die onderling gekoppeld zijn, waardoor het lastig is om de optimale waarden voor de coefficienten te bepalen. Het is erg lastig om een algemeen toepasbaar model of een algemeen toepasbare vergelijking te bepalen waarmee de coefficienten kunnen worden bepaald. Zolang de coefficienten niet goed kunnen worden bepaald zijn lagen-modellen niet algemeen toepasbaar. Het lijkt wel mogelijk om voor een gegeven kustgedeelte met behulp van een computerprogramma de dwarstransportcoefficienten te… Advisors/Committee Members: Van der Biezen, S.C. (mentor), Van de Graaff, J. (mentor), Steetzel, H.J. (mentor), D' Angremond, K. (mentor).

Subjects/Keywords: coastal morphology; sediment tranport; cross shore transport

Record Details Similar Records Cite « Share

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Koeman, A. H. (. (1998). Lagen modellen, bepalen van dwarstransportcoëfficienten. (Masters Thesis). Delft University of Technology. Retrieved from http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:484ca662-efae-48eb-ae31-e68a76367f59

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Koeman, A H (author). “Lagen modellen, bepalen van dwarstransportcoëfficienten.” 1998. Masters Thesis, Delft University of Technology. Accessed March 03, 2021. http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:484ca662-efae-48eb-ae31-e68a76367f59.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Koeman, A H (author). “Lagen modellen, bepalen van dwarstransportcoëfficienten.” 1998. Web. 03 Mar 2021.

Vancouver:

Koeman AH(. Lagen modellen, bepalen van dwarstransportcoëfficienten. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 1998. [cited 2021 Mar 03]. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:484ca662-efae-48eb-ae31-e68a76367f59.

Council of Science Editors:

Koeman AH(. Lagen modellen, bepalen van dwarstransportcoëfficienten. [Masters Thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 1998. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:484ca662-efae-48eb-ae31-e68a76367f59

Delft University of Technology

12. Van der Biezen, S.C. (author). The dynamics of breaker bars: Considered as a diffusion process.

Degree: 1995, Delft University of Technology

URL: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:216954c0-8d65-4e84-bece-95053e72ead8

► In the scope of NOURTEC, an EEC project, efforts are made to simulate the behaviour of executed foreshore supplies with the aid of mathematical computer… (more)

▼ In the scope of NOURTEC, an EEC project, efforts are made to simulate the behaviour of executed foreshore supplies with the aid of mathematical computer models. One of the models used are line models. On behalf of the DUT two studies contribute to NOURTEC line modelling. One concentrates on the longshore transport, and the present study focuses on cross-shore sediment transport. Both studies try to improve the applicability of line models in evaluating and forecasting the behaviour of the coast, specially after a nourishment. The cross-shore profiles supplied and evaluated in the scope of NOURTEC, and many other cross-shore profiles as well, are characterised by one or more breaker bars. Foreshore supplies very often have the same length scales as these breaker bars. At the Terschelling coast, for instance, a nourishment was executed by filling the trough between the outer two bars. This illustrates that, studying cross-shore morphology after a supply, one should include the phenomenon of breaker bars in the study as well. This report contains a study about both breaker bars and supplies. Concentrating on the cross-shore profile, in this study breaker bars and supplies are interpreted as harmonic or instantaneous disturbances of an equilibrium profile respectively. An equilibrium profile is a profile shape for which there is no sediment transport. The essence of line modelling is that a cross-shore profile, for given wave and sediment parameters, tends towards an equilibrium shape. Using this concept, breaker bars can be schematised by a harmonic boundary condition and supplies by an initial surplus of sediment in the equilibrium profile. In this study, the equilibrium profile shape and the consequences of a disturbance are described by two expressions. One is the well known continuity equation, and the other is a sediment transport equation. The latter describes the magnitude and the direction of sediment transports as a function of the profile height and the profile slope. Transports due to wave asymmetry, undertow and the gravity force are included in this expression. In case the profile height and the profile slope meet the equilibrium profile shape for a certain location in the profile, the sediment transport equals zero. Thus it follows that, in case of a disturbance of the equilibrium profile slope, these two expressions describe a diffusion process. In this report, the diffusion process is analyzed both analytically and numerically. The analytical part merely concentrates on the derivation of scale rules, not on the accuracy of the outcome. A scale parameter was defined for the diffusion process due to the gravity force. A more extended analysis including wave asymmetry and undertow as well did not lead to significant different results. The analytical part is concluded with a proposal for further study. In the numerical part a computer program is developed based on the sediment transport equation and the continuity equation. As could be expected from the analytical results, no spontaneous increase of any… Advisors/Committee Members: Bakker, W.T. (mentor), Roelvink, J.A. (mentor), Van de Graaff, J. (mentor), Battjes, J.A. (mentor).

Subjects/Keywords: coastal morphology; breaker bar; cross shore transport

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Van der Biezen, S. C. (. (1995). The dynamics of breaker bars: Considered as a diffusion process. (Masters Thesis). Delft University of Technology. Retrieved from http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:216954c0-8d65-4e84-bece-95053e72ead8

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Van der Biezen, S C (author). “The dynamics of breaker bars: Considered as a diffusion process.” 1995. Masters Thesis, Delft University of Technology. Accessed March 03, 2021. http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:216954c0-8d65-4e84-bece-95053e72ead8.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Van der Biezen, S C (author). “The dynamics of breaker bars: Considered as a diffusion process.” 1995. Web. 03 Mar 2021.

Vancouver:

Van der Biezen SC(. The dynamics of breaker bars: Considered as a diffusion process. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 1995. [cited 2021 Mar 03]. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:216954c0-8d65-4e84-bece-95053e72ead8.

Council of Science Editors:

Van der Biezen SC(. The dynamics of breaker bars: Considered as a diffusion process. [Masters Thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 1995. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:216954c0-8d65-4e84-bece-95053e72ead8

Delft University of Technology

13. Kuyl, M. (author). Tweelagenmodellering van een kustprofiel in een variërend golfveld.

Degree: 1998, Delft University of Technology

URL: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:59ca3c16-6001-4c96-8e8b-2008e5899af7

►

Bij de bestudering van kusttransport processen is er nog steeds behoefte aan eenvoudige modellen waarmee deze processen gemodelleerd kunnen worden. Een dergelijk model is het… (more)

▼

Bij de bestudering van kusttransport processen is er nog steeds behoefte aan eenvoudige modellen waarmee deze processen gemodelleerd kunnen worden. Een dergelijk model is het lagenmodel (Bakker, 1968). Het lagenmodel is onder andere bruikbaar voor het berekenen van dwarstransporten die optreden door een verstoring van een kustprofiel. De modellering kan op een tijdschaal van maanden tot enkele jaren goede resultaten opleveren. In deze afstudeerrapportage zijn de bevindingen vastgelegd van een studie naar de mate waarin een tweelagenmodel toegepast kan worden in een situatie waarin sprake is van in de tijd veranderende golfcondities. Door middel van simulaties met UNIBEST-TC is een dynamisch evenwichtsprofiel bepaald dat behoort bij het gesimuleerde golfklimaat. Van dit evenwichtsprofiel is een tweelagenmodellering gemaakt. De bij deze lagenmodellering horende evenwichtslengte blijkt met constant in de tijd te zijn. De oorzaak hiervan is dat er in een dynamisch evenwichtsprofiel nog steeds dwarstransporten optreden. Het evenwichtsprofiel wijkt ieder tijdstip steeds weer iets af van het voorgaande profiel. Echter beschouwd over een periode van enkele jaren is er een gemiddeld profieI te herkennen. Bij dit profiel hoort dan een gemiddelde evenwichtslengte. Het verloop van de evenwichtslengte in de tijd laat een regelmatige slingering om deze gemiddelde evenwichtslengte zien. In het evenwichtsprofiel zijn verschillende verstoringen aangebracht. Hierbij gaat het om zoweI zandsuppleties aIs ontgravingen. Het gedrag van deze verstoringen is berekend met behulp van UNIBEST-TC. Binnen het modelgebied zijn van deze berekeningen lagenmodelleringen gemaakt. Er is stapsgewijs oak gevarieerd met de twee individuele Iaagdiktes binnen de modelleringen. In de Iagenmodelleringen is zo voor de verschillende verstoringen het verloop van het lengteverschil tussen de twee lagen bepaald. Vervolgens zijn de berekende verlopen aangepast waardoor beter te zien is welke transporten alleen door de verstoringen warden veroorzaakt. De autonome transporten zijn uit het verloop van het evenwichtshersteI gehaald. Van alle modelleringen is via de methode van curve-fitting bepaald voor welke waarden van de dwarstransportcoefficienten, de berekeningen het best aansluiten op de theorie uit het lagenmodel. Op deze manier is getracht een zo goed mogeIijk inzicht te verkrijgen in het gedrag van deze coefficienten binnen de verschillende modelleringen. De uiteindelijke resultaten Iaten zien dat de berekeningen met zonder meer aansluiten op de theorie. Daarom is getracht te bepalen in welke situaties welke modelleringen het best aansluiten op de theorie. Tot slot is er beschreven waarin het gedrag van de modeIIeringen van de verschillende verstoringen van elkaar verschillen.

Hydraulic Engineering

Civil Engineering and Geosciences

Advisors/Committee Members: Van de Graaff, J. (mentor), Van der Biezen, S.C. (mentor), Steetzel, H.J. (mentor), D' Angremond, K. (mentor).

Subjects/Keywords: coastal morphology; sediment tranport; cross shore transport

Record Details Similar Records Cite « Share

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Kuyl, M. (. (1998). Tweelagenmodellering van een kustprofiel in een variërend golfveld. (Masters Thesis). Delft University of Technology. Retrieved from http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:59ca3c16-6001-4c96-8e8b-2008e5899af7

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Kuyl, M (author). “Tweelagenmodellering van een kustprofiel in een variërend golfveld.” 1998. Masters Thesis, Delft University of Technology. Accessed March 03, 2021. http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:59ca3c16-6001-4c96-8e8b-2008e5899af7.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Kuyl, M (author). “Tweelagenmodellering van een kustprofiel in een variërend golfveld.” 1998. Web. 03 Mar 2021.

Vancouver:

Kuyl M(. Tweelagenmodellering van een kustprofiel in een variërend golfveld. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 1998. [cited 2021 Mar 03]. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:59ca3c16-6001-4c96-8e8b-2008e5899af7.

Council of Science Editors:

Kuyl M(. Tweelagenmodellering van een kustprofiel in een variërend golfveld. [Masters Thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 1998. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:59ca3c16-6001-4c96-8e8b-2008e5899af7

14. Marquez, Mainara da Rocha Karniol. \"Morfodinâmica de um segmento da praia da Ilha Comprida, litoral sul do Estado de São Paulo\".

Degree: Mestrado, Oceanografia Química e Geológica, 2007, University of São Paulo

URL: http://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/21/21133/tde-19072007-132207/ ;

►

A dinâmica de praia constitui conhecimento elementar em obras de engenharia e na compreensão da evolução costeira ao longo do Quaternário recente. Buscou-se avaliar a… (more)

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A dinâmica de praia constitui conhecimento elementar em obras de engenharia e na compreensão da evolução costeira ao longo do Quaternário recente. Buscou-se avaliar a variação temporal de curto período da morfologia e do volume de sedimento em um segmento na porção sul da praia da Ilha Comprida, litoral sul de São Paulo. Os resultados permitiram algumas interpretações, tanto em escala diária, como sazonal. As morfologias e os volumes do trecho estudado apresentaram maior similaridade entre as campanhas de maio de 2005 e janeiro de 2006, com estágio morfodinâmico de praia dissipativa, e entre agosto e novembro de 2005, com estágio de praia intermediária do tipo banco e calha. As ondas de sul com alturas de até 1 m e período médio entre 7 e 8 s atuaram no processo de engordamento da praia emersa, enquanto que as ondas desta mesma direção com alturas a partir de 1,5 m e período médio entre 8 e 10 s exerceram papel erosivo. De forma inversa, as ondas de leste com até 1 m de altura e período médio entre 6 e 8 s exerceram papel erosivo e com até 1,5 m e período médio entre 6 e 7 s, papel deposicional.

The knowledge of beach dynamics is fundamental in any coastal engineering projects as well as in the coastal evolution comprehension during the Late Quaternary. The aim of this study is to evaluate the short-term variations in morphology and sediment volume in a beach segment located in the southern portion of the Ilha Comprida, southern coast of the state of São Paulo, Brazil. The results allowed us to get important conclusions on daily and seasonal variations in beach morphology and behaviour. The morphology and volume data show similarity between may/2005 and jan/2006, with dissipative morphodynamic state characteristics, as well as between aug/2005 and nov/2005, characterized by an intermediate morphodynamic state. Southerly waves reaching 1m high and mean period between 7 and 8 s acts on the emerged part of the segment in a depositional way as well as southerly waves higher than 1,5 m and period between 8 and 10 s cause erosion in the same part of the beach profile. Easterly waves act in an opposite way, with lower heights causing erosion and higher causing deposition.

Advisors/Committee Members: Mahiques, Michel Michaelovitch de.

Subjects/Keywords: alongshore transport; avaliação de curto período; Beach morphodynamic; cross-shore transport; Ilha Comprida; Ilha Comprida; Morfodinâmica de praia; short-term evaluation; transporte longitudinal; transporte transversal; variação de volume; volume variation

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APA (6^th Edition):

Marquez, M. d. R. K. (2007). \"Morfodinâmica de um segmento da praia da Ilha Comprida, litoral sul do Estado de São Paulo\". (Masters Thesis). University of São Paulo. Retrieved from http://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/21/21133/tde-19072007-132207/ ;

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Marquez, Mainara da Rocha Karniol. “\"Morfodinâmica de um segmento da praia da Ilha Comprida, litoral sul do Estado de São Paulo\".” 2007. Masters Thesis, University of São Paulo. Accessed March 03, 2021. http://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/21/21133/tde-19072007-132207/ ;.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Marquez, Mainara da Rocha Karniol. “\"Morfodinâmica de um segmento da praia da Ilha Comprida, litoral sul do Estado de São Paulo\".” 2007. Web. 03 Mar 2021.

Vancouver:

Marquez MdRK. \"Morfodinâmica de um segmento da praia da Ilha Comprida, litoral sul do Estado de São Paulo\". [Internet] [Masters thesis]. University of São Paulo; 2007. [cited 2021 Mar 03]. Available from: http://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/21/21133/tde-19072007-132207/ ;.

Council of Science Editors:

Marquez MdRK. \"Morfodinâmica de um segmento da praia da Ilha Comprida, litoral sul do Estado de São Paulo\". [Masters Thesis]. University of São Paulo; 2007. Available from: http://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/21/21133/tde-19072007-132207/ ;

Delft University of Technology

15. Van Overeem, J. (author). Numeriek model voor de berekening van kustlijnveranderinen t.g.v. golven en getij.

Degree: 1978, Delft University of Technology

URL: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:5a2ed886-223b-465f-9be4-1e3b46faaba9

► In samenwerking tussen Rijkswaterstaat afdeling Kustonderzoek van de Directie Waterhuishouding en Waterbeweging en de vakgroep Kustvlaterbouwkunde van de Technische Hogeschool in Delft is een serie… (more)

▼ In samenwerking tussen Rijkswaterstaat afdeling Kustonderzoek van de Directie Waterhuishouding en Waterbeweging en de vakgroep Kustvlaterbouwkunde van de Technische Hogeschool in Delft is een serie rekenprogrammma's tot stand gekomen met het doel de veranderingen van kustvormen onder invloed van golfaanval te voorspellen. In 1975 heeft Casteleyn [8J deze programma's gebundeld in een tweetal standaard programma's. Het eerste deel (KC) berekent de zandtransporten in het geschematiseerde kustvak met de zandtransportformule van het CERC. Het tweede deel (KL) berekent de kustlijn veranderingen volgens de eenlijn theorie van Bakker [lJ . In deze aanpak is het echter niet mogelijk de invloed van het getij in rekening te brengen, aangezien bij de formule van het CERC wordt aangenomen dat het zandtransport evenwijdig aan de kust recht evenredig is met een component van de golfenergieflux. De door golven opgewekte langsstroom wordt dan oak niet in de berekening opgenomen. Er is daarom behoefte aan een soortgel ijk rekenprogramma dat de morfologische veranderingen in een kustgebied berekent t.g.v. door golven en getij opgewekte langsstromen. Hierbij wordt dan tevens rekening gehouden met de continuiteitsvergelijking voor water, zodat er een dwarstransport ontstaat t.g.v. een debiet loodrecht op de kust. Dit dwarstransport komt uiteraard niet tot uiting in de aanpak van het KC en KL programma. Momenteel kan op aannemelijke wijze de door onregelmatige golven opgewekte langstroomsnelheidsverdeling binnen en juist buiten de brandingszone worden berekend. Hierin is de invloed van het getij op eenvoudige wijze te verwerken. In 1977 is door Van de Graaff en de schrijver [9J een vergelijking gemaakt tussen enkele moderne zandtransportformules en de CERC-formule. Uit deze vergelijking blijkt dat de zandtransportformule van Bijker [7] , die gebaseerd is op de formules van Kalinske-Frijlink en Einstein-Rouse, verrev/eg de voorkeur verdient boven de voor golven en stt'oom aangepaste formules van White-Ackers en Engelund-Hansen. In dit rapport zal een beschrijving worden gegeven van de eerste aanzet van het computerprogramma NL (n-lijn). Dit programma dient uiteindelijk de veranderingen te berekenen in een kustgebi ed, da t geschematiseerd is . door n-dieptelijnen. In deze eerste aanzet wordt het effect van het getij nog niet in rekening gebracht. De snelheidsverdeling wordt berekend uit de formule voor de aandrijvende kracht van onregelmatige golven volgens Battjes [SJ en de formule voor de bodemschuifspanning volgens Bijker [7J . Uit deze snelheidsverdeling wordt een twee-dimensionaal snelheidsbeeld afgeleid, waarbij de zandtransporten worden berekend met de formule van Bijker. Het dwarstransport t.g.v. afwijkingen van het profiel t.o.v. het evenwichtsprofiel worden berekend met de dwarstransportformule van SVlart [17J . In hoofdstuk 2 wordt een overzicht gegeven van enkele bestaande rekenprogramma's voor de berekening van kustlijn veranderingen, waarna in hoofdstuk 3 een beschrijving wordt gegeven van de in het NL-programma toegepaste… Advisors/Committee Members: Van de Graaff, J. (mentor), Bijker, E.W. (mentor).

Subjects/Keywords: coastal morphology; Unibest; coastline variation; longshore transport; cross-shore transport

Record Details Similar Records Cite « Share

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Van Overeem, J. (. (1978). Numeriek model voor de berekening van kustlijnveranderinen t.g.v. golven en getij. (Masters Thesis). Delft University of Technology. Retrieved from http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:5a2ed886-223b-465f-9be4-1e3b46faaba9

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Van Overeem, J (author). “Numeriek model voor de berekening van kustlijnveranderinen t.g.v. golven en getij.” 1978. Masters Thesis, Delft University of Technology. Accessed March 03, 2021. http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:5a2ed886-223b-465f-9be4-1e3b46faaba9.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Van Overeem, J (author). “Numeriek model voor de berekening van kustlijnveranderinen t.g.v. golven en getij.” 1978. Web. 03 Mar 2021.

Vancouver:

Van Overeem J(. Numeriek model voor de berekening van kustlijnveranderinen t.g.v. golven en getij. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 1978. [cited 2021 Mar 03]. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:5a2ed886-223b-465f-9be4-1e3b46faaba9.

Council of Science Editors:

Van Overeem J(. Numeriek model voor de berekening van kustlijnveranderinen t.g.v. golven en getij. [Masters Thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 1978. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:5a2ed886-223b-465f-9be4-1e3b46faaba9

University of South Florida

16. Roberts, Tiffany. Natural and Anthropogenic Influences on the Morphodynamics of Sandy and Mixed Sand and Gravel Beaches.

Degree: 2012, University of South Florida

URL: https://scholarcommons.usf.edu/etd/4216

► Beaches and coastal environments are dynamic, constantly shaped and reshaped by natural processes and anthropogenic modifications. The morphodynamics and influence of natural and anthropogenic factors… (more)

▼ Beaches and coastal environments are dynamic, constantly shaped and reshaped by natural processes and anthropogenic modifications. The morphodynamics and influence of natural and anthropogenic factors of two different coasts at various temporal and spatial scales are discussed. To quantify the performance of several beach nourishment projects at annual temporal and kilometer spatial scales on three adjacent microtidal low-wave energy barrier islands in west-central Florida, a total of 5,200 beach and nearshore-profiles spaced at 300 m were surveyed monthly to bi-monthly from 2006-2010. Beach nourishment performance is most significantly influenced by the interruption of longshore sediment transport by complex tidal-inlet processes. More specifically, the tidal-inlet processes influencing adjacent beach nourishment performance includes longshore transport interruption resulting from divergence induced by wave refraction over an ebb-tidal shoal, flood-tidal currents along the beach, and total littoral blockage by structured inlets. A morphologic indicator of a large longshore transport gradient within the study area is the absence of a nearshore sandbar. These non-barred beaches are characterized by persistent shoreline erosion and were almost exclusively located in areas with a large longshore transport gradient. The more typical beach state along the three barrier islands was one exhibiting a migratory bar and relatively stable shoreline. The presence of a sandbar indicates the dominance of cross-shore processes, with onshore migration during calm wave conditions and offshore migration during energetic wave conditions. The onshore and offshore migration of the sandbar is closely related to non-stormy summer and stormy winter seasonal beach changes, respectively. The morphodynamics of a mixed sand and gravel beach in Delaware were investigated based on 740 beach profiles surveyed almost monthly from 2009 to 2011, 60 sediment cores, and 550 surface sediment samples collected at various alongshore and cross-shore transects. Inter-seasonal temporal scales of storm-induced beach changes and post-storm recovery were examined based on a hurricane, a typical energetic winter storm, and an extremely energetic storm resulting from the rare collision of a hurricane and winter storm ("Nor'Ida") occurring within a 3-month period in 2009. The mixed sand and gravel beaches in Delaware are characterized by monotonically increasing water depths lacking a sandbar under all wave conditions. A distinctive beach cycle was identified consisting of a built-up berm profile and depleted nearly-planar storm profile, with a time-scale related to the frequency and intensity of storm impact and duration of intra-storm recovery instead of simple seasonality. The sedimentological characteristics of the storm deposit associated with Nor'Ida demonstrated substantial cross-shore variation ranging from sandy-gravel and gravelly-sand within the storm swash zone (near the pre-storm dune edge) to well-sorted medium to coarse sand seaward of…

Subjects/Keywords: barrier island beaches; beach morphodynamics; beach nourishment; beach profiles; cross-shore sediment transport; longshore sediment transport; American Studies; Arts and Humanities; Geology; Geomorphology

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Roberts, T. (2012). Natural and Anthropogenic Influences on the Morphodynamics of Sandy and Mixed Sand and Gravel Beaches. (Thesis). University of South Florida. Retrieved from https://scholarcommons.usf.edu/etd/4216

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Roberts, Tiffany. “Natural and Anthropogenic Influences on the Morphodynamics of Sandy and Mixed Sand and Gravel Beaches.” 2012. Thesis, University of South Florida. Accessed March 03, 2021. https://scholarcommons.usf.edu/etd/4216.

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Roberts, Tiffany. “Natural and Anthropogenic Influences on the Morphodynamics of Sandy and Mixed Sand and Gravel Beaches.” 2012. Web. 03 Mar 2021.

Vancouver:

Roberts T. Natural and Anthropogenic Influences on the Morphodynamics of Sandy and Mixed Sand and Gravel Beaches. [Internet] [Thesis]. University of South Florida; 2012. [cited 2021 Mar 03]. Available from: https://scholarcommons.usf.edu/etd/4216.

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Council of Science Editors:

Roberts T. Natural and Anthropogenic Influences on the Morphodynamics of Sandy and Mixed Sand and Gravel Beaches. [Thesis]. University of South Florida; 2012. Available from: https://scholarcommons.usf.edu/etd/4216

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

17. Grasmeijer, Berend Tamme. Process-based cross-shore modelling of barred beaches.

Degree: 2002, University Utrecht

URL: https://dspace.library.uu.nl/handle/1874/562 ; URN:NBN:NL:UI:10-1874-562 ; 1874/562 ; URN:NBN:NL:UI:10-1874-562 ; https://dspace.library.uu.nl/handle/1874/562

► Coastal profile models are commonly used for hind- and forecasting studies of nearshore bathymetry, often in response to human interference in the nearshore, for instance… (more)

▼ Coastal profile models are commonly used for hind- and forecasting studies of nearshore bathymetry, often in response to human interference in the nearshore, for instance related to implementation of shoreface nourishments. They are developed to predict wave heights and currents in a line perpendicular to the coast. Based on these wave heights and currents, sediment transport rates are computed and from these the bed level changes are determined. At the present stage of research, the predictive capability of these models generally is rather low in quantitative sense. Actually, these models are still in their infancy. Much of the behaviour of waves, currents and sediment transport near the shore is still unknown. This thesis describes a state-of-the-art cross-shore profile model. The model computations are compared with measurements in a laboratory and in nature. From this comparison it appears that waves and currents in te nearshore can be described at least with the same accuracy using a single representative wave as when computing all waves independently. Modelling the undertow velocity under breaking waves remains difficult however. In particular because of the use of the relatively simple linear wave theory to compute part of the undertow. Dally and Brown (1995) have shown that the use of stream function wave theory leads to more accurate predictions of the undertow velocities. Another aspect is the insufficient landward shift of the maximum undertow velocity. The measured maximum undertow velocities are located more shoreward than those computed with the model. Model predictions might improve by making the amount of water that is transported shoreward in a breaking wave travel with the wave somewhat longer than is predicted in the present models. The model reasonably predicts sediment transport rates near the shore. However, the presence of ripples is of crucial importance. In this thesis, computed ripple dimensions from three ripple formulae are compared with the dimensions measured in the laboratory and in nature. The best predictors is adapted to improve agreement with the measurements. Nevertheless, uncertainties remain large. Much is still unknown on the generation of ripples under waves and currents. Predicting nearshore sandbar migration by a coastal profile model remains a challenge. The migration of a sandbar in the laboratory could rather well be predicted, provided that the undertow under breaking waves is accurately predicted and the effect of ripples on the sandbed is taken into account. Predicting nearshore sandbar migration in nature is difficult because of inaccurate predictions of the undertow under breaking waves and uncertainties on the dimensions of sand ripples.

Subjects/Keywords: cross-shore profile model; cross-shore current; coastal profile model; currents; longshore current; sand transport; undertow; waves; nearshore bars; bed forms

Record Details Similar Records Cite « Share

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Grasmeijer, B. T. (2002). Process-based cross-shore modelling of barred beaches. (Doctoral Dissertation). University Utrecht. Retrieved from https://dspace.library.uu.nl/handle/1874/562 ; URN:NBN:NL:UI:10-1874-562 ; 1874/562 ; URN:NBN:NL:UI:10-1874-562 ; https://dspace.library.uu.nl/handle/1874/562

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Grasmeijer, Berend Tamme. “Process-based cross-shore modelling of barred beaches.” 2002. Doctoral Dissertation, University Utrecht. Accessed March 03, 2021. https://dspace.library.uu.nl/handle/1874/562 ; URN:NBN:NL:UI:10-1874-562 ; 1874/562 ; URN:NBN:NL:UI:10-1874-562 ; https://dspace.library.uu.nl/handle/1874/562.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Grasmeijer, Berend Tamme. “Process-based cross-shore modelling of barred beaches.” 2002. Web. 03 Mar 2021.

Vancouver:

Grasmeijer BT. Process-based cross-shore modelling of barred beaches. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. University Utrecht; 2002. [cited 2021 Mar 03]. Available from: https://dspace.library.uu.nl/handle/1874/562 ; URN:NBN:NL:UI:10-1874-562 ; 1874/562 ; URN:NBN:NL:UI:10-1874-562 ; https://dspace.library.uu.nl/handle/1874/562.

Council of Science Editors:

Grasmeijer BT. Process-based cross-shore modelling of barred beaches. [Doctoral Dissertation]. University Utrecht; 2002. Available from: https://dspace.library.uu.nl/handle/1874/562 ; URN:NBN:NL:UI:10-1874-562 ; 1874/562 ; URN:NBN:NL:UI:10-1874-562 ; https://dspace.library.uu.nl/handle/1874/562

18. Kalpias, A. (author). Analysis of the influence of the cross-shore profile shape of the surfzone on the longshore sediment transport rates.

Degree: 2014, Delft University of Technology

URL: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:7115a804-30df-4a7d-b043-c5beac6a4440

► The longshore sediment transport (it will be referred also as LST) is a core issue in the field of coastal engineering. It is among the… (more)

▼ The longshore sediment transport (it will be referred also as LST) is a core issue in the field of coastal engineering. It is among the most important nearshore processes that control the coastal morphology, and determines in large part whether shores erode, accrete, or remain stable. Consequently, it is important to be able to calculate the LST rates. For this effect, there are various sediment transport formulae. One classification of LST formulations is the following: a) bulk transport formulas (assuming a simplified representation of the physical processes) and b) process-based formulas (including a large number of physical processes). The bulk LST formulas due to their simplicity are routinely used in coastal engineering studies. However, there is still great uncertainty in their estimations. One factor that may contribute to this uncertainty is the fact that the inputs to the bulk formulas are mostly wave characteristics at the edge of the surfzone, whereas morphologic features are usually not, or to a limited extent, included. The aim of this study was to analyze the influence of various morphologic features in the surfzone on the LST rates. It was investigated whether there are any significant correlations between LST rates and cross-shore surf zone features such as beach slope, the presence and number of bars and dimensionless parameters (i.e. the Iribarren parameter ? and the dimensionless fall velocity ?) which may represent morphologic features. The process-based model UNIBEST-LT and the process-based formula Van Rijn 2004 were used. It can be assumed that reliable estimates for the actual sediment transport were provided because most of the physical processes known to influence LST are included in the models and because these models were calibrated with laboratory and field data. The influence of the tide was not included in this study. All calculations were performed using the same sediment characteristics, i.e. sand with D50 in the order of 200?m which is a typical value of the study area, the Holland coast. For the simulations, two types of cross-shore profiles were used: a) flat profiles and b) JARKUS profiles (measured profiles from the Dutch coast). The simulations with flat profiles were done using a single-wave condition climate. The range of the values of slopes were chosen according to the values of bars seaward slopes (measured from JARKUS profiles), because it is more likely that waves break over there. Generally, it was concluded that both the slope and the Iribarren parameter ? influenced the calculated LST rates in a similar way: the steeper the slope (or the higher the Iribarren parameter ?), the higher the LST rates that were calculated. No clear trend between LST and ? was observed. However, the ? values were calculated with single wave conditions, whereas the ? is usually calculated for representative wave conditions that dictate how the cross-shore profile is. Also, some conclusions about the bulk formulas CERC and Kamphuis were made. Finally, it was studied how the slope and… Advisors/Committee Members: Stive, M.J.F. (mentor), Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M. (mentor), De Boer, G.J. (mentor), Mil Homens, J.P. (mentor).

Subjects/Keywords: longshore sediment transport; UNIBEST-LT; surfzone; cross-shore profile shape

…panel: alongshore sediment transport distribution over the cross-shore profile for the wave… …input parameters and resolve the cross-shore distribution of sediment transport over the surf… …for the actual sediment transport are provided. For the simulations, 2 types of cross-shore… …cross-shore sediment transport processes and related morphodynamics of beach profiles and… …TC: Designed for the computation of cross-shore transport and resulting beach changes…

10 more images…

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Kalpias, A. (. (2014). Analysis of the influence of the cross-shore profile shape of the surfzone on the longshore sediment transport rates. (Masters Thesis). Delft University of Technology. Retrieved from http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:7115a804-30df-4a7d-b043-c5beac6a4440

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Kalpias, A (author). “Analysis of the influence of the cross-shore profile shape of the surfzone on the longshore sediment transport rates.” 2014. Masters Thesis, Delft University of Technology. Accessed March 03, 2021. http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:7115a804-30df-4a7d-b043-c5beac6a4440.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Kalpias, A (author). “Analysis of the influence of the cross-shore profile shape of the surfzone on the longshore sediment transport rates.” 2014. Web. 03 Mar 2021.

Vancouver:

Kalpias A(. Analysis of the influence of the cross-shore profile shape of the surfzone on the longshore sediment transport rates. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2014. [cited 2021 Mar 03]. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:7115a804-30df-4a7d-b043-c5beac6a4440.

Council of Science Editors:

Kalpias A(. Analysis of the influence of the cross-shore profile shape of the surfzone on the longshore sediment transport rates. [Masters Thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2014. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:7115a804-30df-4a7d-b043-c5beac6a4440

Universiteit Utrecht

19. Grasmeijer, Berend Tamme. Process-based cross-shore modelling of barred beaches.

Degree: 2002, Universiteit Utrecht

URL: http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/562

► Coastal profile models are commonly used for hind- and forecasting studies of nearshore bathymetry, often in response to human interference in the nearshore, for instance… (more)

▼ Coastal profile models are commonly used for hind- and forecasting studies of nearshore bathymetry, often in response to human interference in the nearshore, for instance related to implementation of shoreface nourishments. They are developed to predict wave heights and currents in a line perpendicular to the coast. Based on these wave heights and currents, sediment transport rates are computed and from these the bed level changes are determined. At the present stage of research, the predictive capability of these models generally is rather low in quantitative sense. Actually, these models are still in their infancy. Much of the behaviour of waves, currents and sediment transport near the shore is still unknown. This thesis describes a state-of-the-art cross-shore profile model. The model computations are compared with measurements in a laboratory and in nature. From this comparison it appears that waves and currents in te nearshore can be described at least with the same accuracy using a single representative wave as when computing all waves independently. Modelling the undertow velocity under breaking waves remains difficult however. In particular because of the use of the relatively simple linear wave theory to compute part of the undertow. Dally and Brown (1995) have shown that the use of stream function wave theory leads to more accurate predictions of the undertow velocities. Another aspect is the insufficient landward shift of the maximum undertow velocity. The measured maximum undertow velocities are located more shoreward than those computed with the model. Model predictions might improve by making the amount of water that is transported shoreward in a breaking wave travel with the wave somewhat longer than is predicted in the present models. The model reasonably predicts sediment transport rates near the shore. However, the presence of ripples is of crucial importance. In this thesis, computed ripple dimensions from three ripple formulae are compared with the dimensions measured in the laboratory and in nature. The best predictors is adapted to improve agreement with the measurements. Nevertheless, uncertainties remain large. Much is still unknown on the generation of ripples under waves and currents. Predicting nearshore sandbar migration by a coastal profile model remains a challenge. The migration of a sandbar in the laboratory could rather well be predicted, provided that the undertow under breaking waves is accurately predicted and the effect of ripples on the sandbed is taken into account. Predicting nearshore sandbar migration in nature is difficult because of inaccurate predictions of the undertow under breaking waves and uncertainties on the dimensions of sand ripples.

Subjects/Keywords: Aardwetenschappen; cross-shore profile model; cross-shore current; coastal profile model; currents; longshore current; sand transport; undertow; waves; nearshore bars; bed forms

Record Details Similar Records Cite « Share

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Grasmeijer, B. T. (2002). Process-based cross-shore modelling of barred beaches. (Doctoral Dissertation). Universiteit Utrecht. Retrieved from http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/562

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Grasmeijer, Berend Tamme. “Process-based cross-shore modelling of barred beaches.” 2002. Doctoral Dissertation, Universiteit Utrecht. Accessed March 03, 2021. http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/562.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Grasmeijer, Berend Tamme. “Process-based cross-shore modelling of barred beaches.” 2002. Web. 03 Mar 2021.

Vancouver:

Grasmeijer BT. Process-based cross-shore modelling of barred beaches. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. Universiteit Utrecht; 2002. [cited 2021 Mar 03]. Available from: http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/562.

Council of Science Editors:

Grasmeijer BT. Process-based cross-shore modelling of barred beaches. [Doctoral Dissertation]. Universiteit Utrecht; 2002. Available from: http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/562

University of South Florida

20. Elko, Nicole A. Storm-influenced sediment transport gradients on a nourished beach.

Degree: 2006, University of South Florida

URL: https://scholarcommons.usf.edu/etd/2517

► Beach nourishment provides an excellent opportunity for the study of intensified sediment transport gradients and associated morphological changes in a natural setting. The objectives of… (more)

▼ Beach nourishment provides an excellent opportunity for the study of intensified sediment transport gradients and associated morphological changes in a natural setting. The objectives of this study are to quantify and predict longshore and cross-shore transport gradients induced by 1) beach nourishment, 2) different storm wave conditions, and 3) the annual wave climate and long-term sediment supply. The details of sediment transport rates and gradients induced by gradual processes and high-energy events are analyzed on a macro-scale. Well-planned monitoring of the 2004 Upham Beach nourishment project in west-central Florida collected high-spatial and -temporal resolution field data. Three hurricanes passed by the project soon after nourishment was complete.Post-nourishment planform adjustment occurs immediately after nourishment via diffusion spit development at the end transitions. Thus, the initiation of planform adjustment may be abrupt, rather than gradual as pred icted by the typical diffusion models. Diffusion spit formation is dominant during relatively calm wave conditions on coasts with low wave heights and tidal ranges.Profile equilibration also may be an event-driven, rather than a gradual, process. Rapid profile equilibration following nourishment occurred not only due to hurricane passage, but also during a winter season. The duration between nourishment and the passage of the first high-energy event is an important factor controlling the time scale of profile equilibration.The passage of three hurricanes generated different wave conditions and induced different sediment transport directions, rates, and gradients due to their variable proximities to the project area. The direction of cross-shore transport was governed by wave steepness. Onshore sediment transport occurred during a storm event, in contrast with the concepts of gradual onshore transport during mild wave conditions and abrupt offshore transport during storm events, as cited in the literature.By formulating sediment budgets on various temporal and spatial scales, both event-driven and average transport rates and gradients can be resolved. Annual average transport rates for a region should not be arbitrarily applied to nourished beaches; rather, sediment budgets formulated with high-spatial and -temporal resolution field data should be formulated during the design phase of future nourishment projects.

Subjects/Keywords: Planform evolution; Profile equilibration; Hurricanes; Nearshore sediment transport; Cross-shore sediment transport; Longshore sediment transport; Shore protection; Design; Construction; Sediment budget; Coastal management; American Studies; Arts and Humanities

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APA (6^th Edition):

Elko, N. A. (2006). Storm-influenced sediment transport gradients on a nourished beach. (Thesis). University of South Florida. Retrieved from https://scholarcommons.usf.edu/etd/2517

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Elko, Nicole A. “Storm-influenced sediment transport gradients on a nourished beach.” 2006. Thesis, University of South Florida. Accessed March 03, 2021. https://scholarcommons.usf.edu/etd/2517.

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Elko, Nicole A. “Storm-influenced sediment transport gradients on a nourished beach.” 2006. Web. 03 Mar 2021.

Vancouver:

Elko NA. Storm-influenced sediment transport gradients on a nourished beach. [Internet] [Thesis]. University of South Florida; 2006. [cited 2021 Mar 03]. Available from: https://scholarcommons.usf.edu/etd/2517.

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Council of Science Editors:

Elko NA. Storm-influenced sediment transport gradients on a nourished beach. [Thesis]. University of South Florida; 2006. Available from: https://scholarcommons.usf.edu/etd/2517

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

University of North Florida

21. Burnette, Carolina. Analysis of a Long-Term Record of Nearshore Currents and Implications in Littoral Transport Processes.

Degree: 2016, University of North Florida

URL: https://digitalcommons.unf.edu/etd/647

► A seasonal and long-term analysis of the vertical structure of currents in the nearshore is conducted to determine the role of the wind in driving… (more)

▼ A seasonal and long-term analysis of the vertical structure of currents in the nearshore is conducted to determine the role of the wind in driving currents and consequently affecting littoral transport processes. Approximately ten years (January, 2002 – October, 2011) of nearshore current profiles are examined using the data collected with an Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP) installed off of Spessard Holland North Beach Park located in Melbourne Beach, Florida. Additionally, wind data collected with a directional anemometer from September, 2002, until October, 2008, are used to further characterize the long-term hydrodynamic forcing. With the shoreline oriented nominally 17o west of magnetic north, both the current profiles and the wind vectors have been rendered into longshore and cross-shore components. The water level record from a NOAA tide station located at the Trident Pier at nearby Port Canaveral is utilized in establishing the water depth and conditioning the data for statistical analysis. Monthly mean vertical profiles reveal that during the winter months the surface currents are usually toward the south, and toward the north in the summer. In spring and fall, they are mixed, demonstrating a clear seasonality in both direction and intensity of the longshore current. Subjecting the longshore and cross-shore current data to Empirical Orthogonal Function Analysis reveals that the first spatial Eigenfunction accounts for more than 98% of the variability in the vertical profile of the longshore current, and more than 86% of the variability in the profile of the cross-shore current. However, there is a rotation of the current to the right (clockwise) with the rotation angle increasing and the variance decreasing with depth below the surface. The spiral structure of the water column follows a surface Ekman veering, but for very shallow water. The upper layer of the current is almost aligned with the direction of the wind. Monthly correlations between 2-hour average time series of longshore current and 2-hour average time series of wind speed reveal the seasonal patterns of the wind and longshore current in which the upper layer of the water column is highly correlated with the longshore component of the wind speed for most of the year and slightly less correlated for the lower layer of the water column. Most importantly, on average, wave height (Hmo) is larger when the longshore current is heading to the south (Hmo=0.95 m) than when the current is going to the north (Hmo=0.73 m). Additionally, there is a stronger correlation between southerly directed currents and incident wave energy flux than northerly directed currents and wave energy flux. These results indicate that the net long-term north-to-south sediment transport known to characterize the region is heavily influenced by wind-driven currents.

Subjects/Keywords: Thesis; University of North Florida; Dissertations; Academic – UNF – Master of Science in Civil Engineering; Dissertations; Academic – UNF – Civil Engineering; Longshore Current; Cross-shore Current; Melbourne Beach; Florida; Coastal Science; Engineering; Littora Transport Processes; Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler measurements, nearshore current, wind-driven currents; Sediment transport – Effect of wind on – East Florida; Civil Engineering

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Burnette, C. (2016). Analysis of a Long-Term Record of Nearshore Currents and Implications in Littoral Transport Processes. (Thesis). University of North Florida. Retrieved from https://digitalcommons.unf.edu/etd/647

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Burnette, Carolina. “Analysis of a Long-Term Record of Nearshore Currents and Implications in Littoral Transport Processes.” 2016. Thesis, University of North Florida. Accessed March 03, 2021. https://digitalcommons.unf.edu/etd/647.

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Burnette, Carolina. “Analysis of a Long-Term Record of Nearshore Currents and Implications in Littoral Transport Processes.” 2016. Web. 03 Mar 2021.

Vancouver:

Burnette C. Analysis of a Long-Term Record of Nearshore Currents and Implications in Littoral Transport Processes. [Internet] [Thesis]. University of North Florida; 2016. [cited 2021 Mar 03]. Available from: https://digitalcommons.unf.edu/etd/647.

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Council of Science Editors:

Burnette C. Analysis of a Long-Term Record of Nearshore Currents and Implications in Littoral Transport Processes. [Thesis]. University of North Florida; 2016. Available from: https://digitalcommons.unf.edu/etd/647

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Georgia Tech

22. Demir, Huseyin. A Process-Based Model for Beach Profile Evolution.

Degree: PhD, Civil and Environmental Engineering, 2007, Georgia Tech

URL: http://hdl.handle.net/1853/19811

► Beach profile models predict the changes in bathymetry along a line perpendicular to the shoreline. These models are used to forecast bathymetric changes in response… (more)

▼ Beach profile models predict the changes in bathymetry along a line perpendicular to the shoreline. These models are used to forecast bathymetric changes in response to storms, sea level rise or human activities such as dredging and beach nourishment. Process-based models achieve this by simulating the physical processes that drive the sediment transport as opposed to behavior models which simulate observed profile changes without resolving the underlying processes. Some of these processes are wave shoaling and breaking, boundary layer streaming, and offshore-directed undertow currents. These hydrodynamic processes control the sediment processes such as sediment pick-up from the bottom, diffusion of the sediment across the water column and its advection with waves and currents. For this study, newly developed sediment transport and boundary layer models were coupled with existing models of wave transformation, nearshore circulation and bathymetry update, to predict beach profile changes. The models covered the region from the dry land to a depth of 6-8 meters, spanning up to 500 meters in the cross-shore direction. The modeling system was applied at storm time scales, extending from a couple of hours to several days. Two field experiments were conducted at Myrtle Beach, SC, involving the collection of wave, current and bathymetric data as a part of this study. The results were used to calibrate and test the numerical models along with data from various laboratory studies from the literature. The sediment transport model computes the variation of sediment concentrations over a wave period and over the water column, solving the advection-diffusion equation using the Crank-Nicholson finite-difference numerical scheme. Using a new approach, erosion depth thickness and sediment concentrations within the bed were also predicted. The model could predict sediment transport rates for a range of conditions, within a factor of two. It successfully computed the sediment concentration profile over the water column and within the bed and its variation throughout a wave period. Erosion depth and sheet flow layer thickness were also predicted reasonably well. Wave heights across the profile were predicted within ten percent when the empirical wave breaking parameter was tuned appropriately. Mean cross-shore velocities contain more uncertainty, even after tuning. The importance of capturing the location of the maximum, near-bottom, cross-shore velocity when predicting bar behavior was shown. Bar formation, erosion, accretion, onshore and offshore bar movement were all computed with the model successfully Advisors/Committee Members: Work, Paul A. (Committee Chair), Alexander, Clark R. Jr. (Committee Member), Fritz, Hermann M. (Committee Member), Haas, Kevin A. (Committee Member), Sturm, Terry W. (Committee Member).

Subjects/Keywords: Suspended sediment; Sediment transport; Numerical model; Diffusion; Advection; Cross-shore; Myrtle Beach; NearCoM; REFDIF; Coast changes; Mathematical models; Sediment transport; Littoral drift

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Demir, H. (2007). A Process-Based Model for Beach Profile Evolution. (Doctoral Dissertation). Georgia Tech. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/1853/19811

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Demir, Huseyin. “A Process-Based Model for Beach Profile Evolution.” 2007. Doctoral Dissertation, Georgia Tech. Accessed March 03, 2021. http://hdl.handle.net/1853/19811.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Demir, Huseyin. “A Process-Based Model for Beach Profile Evolution.” 2007. Web. 03 Mar 2021.

Vancouver:

Demir H. A Process-Based Model for Beach Profile Evolution. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. Georgia Tech; 2007. [cited 2021 Mar 03]. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1853/19811.

Council of Science Editors:

Demir H. A Process-Based Model for Beach Profile Evolution. [Doctoral Dissertation]. Georgia Tech; 2007. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1853/19811

23. Srisuwan, Chatchawin. Size-selective sediment transport and cross-shore profile evolution in the nearshore zone.

Degree: PhD, Civil and Environmental Engineering, 2012, Georgia Tech

URL: http://hdl.handle.net/1853/45892

► Cross-shore bathymetric evolution in the nearshore zone often leads to threatening consequences such as beach erosion and shoreline retreat that concern the coastal community. A… (more)

▼ Cross-shore bathymetric evolution in the nearshore zone often leads to threatening consequences such as beach erosion and shoreline retreat that concern the coastal community. A new, comprehensive cross-shore morphodynamic model was developed that can be used to describe and predict these phenomena. The study included both physical and numerical models that were designed to focus on the influence of sediment size characteristics on the cross-shore sediment transport process. For a profile equilibrium timescale, three types of beach profiles with different sediment mixtures were simulated in a small-scale, random-wave flume laboratory using erosive, storm, and accretive wave conditions. Dynamic relationships between the sediment grain sorting and beach profile changes were found to be evident as size-graded sediment fractions tended to relocate to different energetic zones along the cross-shore profiles. Existing phase-averaged wave and circulation models were utilized together with several new intra-wave modules for predicting important hydrodynamic parameters that were validated using the experimental data. A novel, multi-size sediment transport model was formulated to compute individual transport rates of size-graded sediment fractions while accounting for their interaction and non-linear size dependencies. The model was coupled with a new grain sorting model that resolves cross-shore grain sorting and vertical grain lamination. Compared to a traditional modeling approach, the new comprehensive model proved to offer superior modeling accuracy for both profile evolution and sediment grain size change. The use of the model is most advantageous for a condition with intensive grain sorting, a common scenario on a natural beach profile. Equilibrium beach profile is also better simulated by the model as size-graded fractions are predicted to relocate to different zones where they could withstand local hydrodynamics. Other new components that also help improve the modeling capability include the terms for wave-breaking and bed-slope effects, wave-crest sediment flux, and acceleration-induced bottom-shear stress. Besides superior profile modeling accuracy, sediment size characteristics and their spatial and temporal variations are also a useful set of information provided by the new model. Advisors/Committee Members: Paul A Work (Committee Chair), Emanuele Di Lorenzo (Committee Member), Hermann M Fritz (Committee Member), J David Frost (Committee Member), Kevin A Haas (Committee Member).

Subjects/Keywords: Nearshore morphodynamics; Cross-shore profile evolution; Beach profile model; Sediment grain sorting; Wave flume experiment; Size-selective sediment transport; Equilibrium beach profile; Coastal sediments; Sediment transport; Erosion; Beach erosion

…transport model is coupled with a new grain sorting model that resolves cross-shore grain sorting… …transport and cross-shore grain sorting. The particular domain of interest is the 2-D cross-shore… …Summary on the capabilities of the multi-size and single-size models to predict cross-shore… …73 Cross-shore wave radiation stresses (Sxx ), volume fluxes (Qwx )… …cross-shore locations in Exp. 1C. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Simulation results for Exp. 1C…

10 more images…

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Srisuwan, C. (2012). Size-selective sediment transport and cross-shore profile evolution in the nearshore zone. (Doctoral Dissertation). Georgia Tech. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/1853/45892

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Srisuwan, Chatchawin. “Size-selective sediment transport and cross-shore profile evolution in the nearshore zone.” 2012. Doctoral Dissertation, Georgia Tech. Accessed March 03, 2021. http://hdl.handle.net/1853/45892.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Srisuwan, Chatchawin. “Size-selective sediment transport and cross-shore profile evolution in the nearshore zone.” 2012. Web. 03 Mar 2021.

Vancouver:

Srisuwan C. Size-selective sediment transport and cross-shore profile evolution in the nearshore zone. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. Georgia Tech; 2012. [cited 2021 Mar 03]. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1853/45892.

Council of Science Editors:

Srisuwan C. Size-selective sediment transport and cross-shore profile evolution in the nearshore zone. [Doctoral Dissertation]. Georgia Tech; 2012. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1853/45892

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