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You searched for subject:(Undular bores). Showing records 1 – 3 of 3 total matches.

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Delft University of Technology

1. Roubos, Jochem (author). Prediction of the characteristics of a tsunami wave near the Tohoku coastline: Numerical SWASH modelling.

Degree: 2019, Delft University of Technology

To calculate tsunami forces on coastal structures, the wave type in front of the coast is of great importance. Hence this paper aims to find ways to predict the type of tsunami wave breaking. Based on literature review, video footage, analytical reasoning and numerical modelling (SWASH) it can be concluded that both the continental shelf slope (alpha_2) and the bay geometry (beta) have a significant influence on the transformation of a tsunami wave near the coastline. After conducting 1D and 2DH wave simulations, a distinction is made in three types of tsunami waves; a non-breaking front (surging), a breaking front (plunging) and an undular bore breaking front (spilling). Tsunami waves transform into these three wave types for a steep continental shelf, an intermediate sloped continental shelf, and a gentle sloped continental shelf respectively. A new tsunami breaker parameter (xi_tsunami) is proposed to predict the type of wave at the coastline in a quantitative way.

This is a report of a master thesis, where a draft version of a publication is combined with the final report as an appendix.

Advisors/Committee Members: Hofland, Bas (mentor), Bricker, Jeremy (graduation committee), Zijlema, Marcel (graduation committee), Esteban, Miguel (graduation committee), Delft University of Technology (degree granting institution).

Subjects/Keywords: Tsunami; Breaker parameter; Undular bores; Surging; Classification; Continental shelf; Bay geometry

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6th Edition):

Roubos, J. (. (2019). Prediction of the characteristics of a tsunami wave near the Tohoku coastline: Numerical SWASH modelling. (Masters Thesis). Delft University of Technology. Retrieved from http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:421cd6b8-fd31-424a-aa9b-529dc17018eb

Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):

Roubos, Jochem (author). “Prediction of the characteristics of a tsunami wave near the Tohoku coastline: Numerical SWASH modelling.” 2019. Masters Thesis, Delft University of Technology. Accessed August 15, 2020. http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:421cd6b8-fd31-424a-aa9b-529dc17018eb.

MLA Handbook (7th Edition):

Roubos, Jochem (author). “Prediction of the characteristics of a tsunami wave near the Tohoku coastline: Numerical SWASH modelling.” 2019. Web. 15 Aug 2020.

Vancouver:

Roubos J(. Prediction of the characteristics of a tsunami wave near the Tohoku coastline: Numerical SWASH modelling. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2019. [cited 2020 Aug 15]. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:421cd6b8-fd31-424a-aa9b-529dc17018eb.

Council of Science Editors:

Roubos J(. Prediction of the characteristics of a tsunami wave near the Tohoku coastline: Numerical SWASH modelling. [Masters Thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2019. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:421cd6b8-fd31-424a-aa9b-529dc17018eb


Delft University of Technology

2. Dekkers, Jochem (author). Undular bore development over coral reefs: An experimental study.

Degree: 2018, Delft University of Technology

A series of laboratory experiments were designed for a schematized 1/20 fringing reef. Both regular and bichromatic wave experiments were carried out. The focus lies on the regular waves experiments. Six regular wave experiments were carried out. During the first two experiemnts, cnoidal waves were generated with typical swell scales, while the latter four experiments involved waves with scales similar to infragravity waves. High-resolution collocated measurements of surface elevation and velocity allowed proper separation of incoming and outgoing wave components at 11 positions along the reef. This made a detailed analysis of wave transformation over the reef flat and run-up measurements on the beach possible. A collocated decomposition method has been developed which takes into account the effects of nonlinearity and dispersion, and can be used for deforming waves on the reef flat. The incoming and outgoing waves are given in terms of discharge or free surface elevation. For all wave conditions, undular bores develop over the reef flat and well-developed undulations are observed at the beach toe. The processes leading to the development of the undulations are however quite different for the different wave conditions. For the swell cases, the wave front steepens considerably on the fore-reef slope and the waves subsequently break violently at the reef crest. The breaking bore then decays progressively until it stops breaking and start forming undulations at mid reef. The IG-scale waves stay relatively symmetric about the vertical during the shoaling process on the fore-reef. The front only becomes steeper on the reef flat, and does not break turbulently for all IG-scale cases. For some cases the steepening process continues and is directly followed by formation of undulations. For the more energetic IG-scale cases the front first breaks turbulently. The rate at which the waves steepen on the reef flat depends, as expected, on the wave height and wave length. This is in concordance with the theory of Stoker; larger and shorter waves steepen faster than smaller and longer waves. Consequently, shorter shallow water waves starts forming undulations earlier on and feature more developed undulations when they arrive at the beach. The cross-shore evolution of the total variance clearly reflects these differences in behaviour. The cases involving strong breaking (i.e. the swell cases) show a rapid decrease of the variance at the outer reef flat, while the IG wave cases involving no breaking experience a slow decay of energy, most probably due to bottom and wall friction. The leading undulation is generally the largest and propagates faster than the trailing undulations due to amplitude dispersion. The leading undulation progressively separates from the rest of the wave train, and ultimately resembles a solitary wave when it arrives at the toe of the beach. Nonlinear steepening is associated with generation of higher harmonics at a multiple of the primary frequency. The undulations are also higher harmonics, but form a… Advisors/Committee Members: Reniers, Ad (mentor), Tissier, Marion (mentor), Bricker, Jeremy (mentor), Pearson, Stuart (mentor), van Dongeren, AR (mentor), Delft University of Technology (degree granting institution).

Subjects/Keywords: Undular bores; Fringing coral reefs; Infragravity waves; wave runup; collocated decomposition; experimental modeling

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6th Edition):

Dekkers, J. (. (2018). Undular bore development over coral reefs: An experimental study. (Masters Thesis). Delft University of Technology. Retrieved from http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:cb525042-e19e-455a-b05d-4820d0e5b6bc

Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):

Dekkers, Jochem (author). “Undular bore development over coral reefs: An experimental study.” 2018. Masters Thesis, Delft University of Technology. Accessed August 15, 2020. http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:cb525042-e19e-455a-b05d-4820d0e5b6bc.

MLA Handbook (7th Edition):

Dekkers, Jochem (author). “Undular bore development over coral reefs: An experimental study.” 2018. Web. 15 Aug 2020.

Vancouver:

Dekkers J(. Undular bore development over coral reefs: An experimental study. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2018. [cited 2020 Aug 15]. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:cb525042-e19e-455a-b05d-4820d0e5b6bc.

Council of Science Editors:

Dekkers J(. Undular bore development over coral reefs: An experimental study. [Masters Thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2018. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:cb525042-e19e-455a-b05d-4820d0e5b6bc


Université de Bordeaux I

3. Tissier, Marion. Etude numérique de la transformation des vagues en zone littorale, de la zone de levée aux zones de surf et de jet de rive : Extraction of the marine sponge Axinella donnani and synthesis of dispacamide A analogues.

Degree: Docteur es, Physique de l'environnement, 2011, Université de Bordeaux I

Dans cette thèse, nous introduisons un nouveau modèle instationnaire de vagues valable de la zone de levée à la zone de jet de rive adapté à l'étude de la submersion. Le modèle est basé sur les équations de Serre Green-Naghdi (S-GN), dont l'application à la zone de surf reste un domaine de recherche ouvert. Nous proposons une nouvelle approche pour gérer le déferlement dans ce type de modèle, basée sur la représentation des fronts déferlés par des chocs. Cette approche a été utilisée avec succès pour les modèles basés sur les équations de Saint-Venant (SV) et permet une description simple et efficace du déferlement et des mouvements de la ligne d'eau. Dans ces travaux, nous cherchons à étendre le domaine de validité du modèle SV SURF-WB (Marche et al. 2007) vers la zone de levée en incluant les termes dispersifs propres aux équations de S-GN. Des basculements locaux vers les équations de SV au niveau des fronts permettent alors aux vagues de déferler et dissiper leur énergie. Le modèle obtenu, appelé SURF-GN, est validé à l'aide de données de laboratoire correspondant à différents types de vagues incidentes et de plages. Il est ensuite utilisé pour analyser la dynamique des fronts d'ondes longues de type tsunami en zone littorale. Nous montrons que SURF-GN peut décrire les différents types de fronts, d'ondulé non-déferlé à purement déferlé. Les conséquences de la transformation d'une onde de type tsunami en train d'ondulations lors de la propagation sur une plage sont ensuite considérées. Nous présentons finalement une étude de la célérité des vagues déferlées, basée sur les données de la campagne de mesure in-situ ECORS Truc-Vert 2008. L'influence des non-linéarités est en particulier quantifiée.

In this thesis, we introduce a new numerical model able to describe wave transformation from the shoaling to the swash zones, including overtopping. This model is based on Serre Green-Naghdi equations, which are the basic fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type equations. These equations can accurately describe wave dynamics prior to breaking, but their application to the surf zone usually requires the use of complex parameterizations. We propose a new approach to describe wave breaking in S-GN models, based on the representation of breaking wave fronts as shocks. This method has been successfully applied to the Nonlinear Shallow Water (NSW) equations, and allows for an easy treatment of wave breaking and shoreline motions. However, the NSW equations can only be applied after breaking. In this thesis, we aim at extending the validity domain of the NSW model SURF-WB (Marche et al. 2007) to the shoaling zone by adding the S-GN dispersive terms to the governing equations. Local switches to NSW equations are then performed in the vicinity of the breaking fronts, allowing for the waves to break and dissipate their energy. Extensive validations using laboratory data are presented. The new model, called SURF-GN, is then applied to study tsunami-like undular bore dynamics in the nearshore. The model ability to describe bore dynamics for…

Advisors/Committee Members: Bonneton, Philippe (thesis director), Marche, Fabien (thesis director).

Subjects/Keywords: Modèle de type Boussinesq fortement non-linéaire; Zone de surf; Théorie des chocs; Schémas hybrides; Franchissement; Ressauts ondulés; Célérité des vagues déferlées; Fully non-linear Boussinesq type model; Surf zone; Shock theory; Hybrid schemes; Overtopping; Undular bores; Broken wave celerity

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6th Edition):

Tissier, M. (2011). Etude numérique de la transformation des vagues en zone littorale, de la zone de levée aux zones de surf et de jet de rive : Extraction of the marine sponge Axinella donnani and synthesis of dispacamide A analogues. (Doctoral Dissertation). Université de Bordeaux I. Retrieved from http://www.theses.fr/2011BOR14437

Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):

Tissier, Marion. “Etude numérique de la transformation des vagues en zone littorale, de la zone de levée aux zones de surf et de jet de rive : Extraction of the marine sponge Axinella donnani and synthesis of dispacamide A analogues.” 2011. Doctoral Dissertation, Université de Bordeaux I. Accessed August 15, 2020. http://www.theses.fr/2011BOR14437.

MLA Handbook (7th Edition):

Tissier, Marion. “Etude numérique de la transformation des vagues en zone littorale, de la zone de levée aux zones de surf et de jet de rive : Extraction of the marine sponge Axinella donnani and synthesis of dispacamide A analogues.” 2011. Web. 15 Aug 2020.

Vancouver:

Tissier M. Etude numérique de la transformation des vagues en zone littorale, de la zone de levée aux zones de surf et de jet de rive : Extraction of the marine sponge Axinella donnani and synthesis of dispacamide A analogues. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. Université de Bordeaux I; 2011. [cited 2020 Aug 15]. Available from: http://www.theses.fr/2011BOR14437.

Council of Science Editors:

Tissier M. Etude numérique de la transformation des vagues en zone littorale, de la zone de levée aux zones de surf et de jet de rive : Extraction of the marine sponge Axinella donnani and synthesis of dispacamide A analogues. [Doctoral Dissertation]. Université de Bordeaux I; 2011. Available from: http://www.theses.fr/2011BOR14437

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