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Université de Bordeaux I

1. Tissier, Marion. Etude numérique de la transformation des vagues en zone littorale, de la zone de levée aux zones de surf et de jet de rive : Extraction of the marine sponge Axinella donnani and synthesis of dispacamide A analogues.

Degree: Docteur es, Physique de l'environnement, 2011, Université de Bordeaux I

Dans cette thèse, nous introduisons un nouveau modèle instationnaire de vagues valable de la zone de levée à la zone de jet de rive adapté à l'étude de la submersion. Le modèle est basé sur les équations de Serre Green-Naghdi (S-GN), dont l'application à la zone de surf reste un domaine de recherche ouvert. Nous proposons une nouvelle approche pour gérer le déferlement dans ce type de modèle, basée sur la représentation des fronts déferlés par des chocs. Cette approche a été utilisée avec succès pour les modèles basés sur les équations de Saint-Venant (SV) et permet une description simple et efficace du déferlement et des mouvements de la ligne d'eau. Dans ces travaux, nous cherchons à étendre le domaine de validité du modèle SV SURF-WB (Marche et al. 2007) vers la zone de levée en incluant les termes dispersifs propres aux équations de S-GN. Des basculements locaux vers les équations de SV au niveau des fronts permettent alors aux vagues de déferler et dissiper leur énergie. Le modèle obtenu, appelé SURF-GN, est validé à l'aide de données de laboratoire correspondant à différents types de vagues incidentes et de plages. Il est ensuite utilisé pour analyser la dynamique des fronts d'ondes longues de type tsunami en zone littorale. Nous montrons que SURF-GN peut décrire les différents types de fronts, d'ondulé non-déferlé à purement déferlé. Les conséquences de la transformation d'une onde de type tsunami en train d'ondulations lors de la propagation sur une plage sont ensuite considérées. Nous présentons finalement une étude de la célérité des vagues déferlées, basée sur les données de la campagne de mesure in-situ ECORS Truc-Vert 2008. L'influence des non-linéarités est en particulier quantifiée.

In this thesis, we introduce a new numerical model able to describe wave transformation from the shoaling to the swash zones, including overtopping. This model is based on Serre Green-Naghdi equations, which are the basic fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type equations. These equations can accurately describe wave dynamics prior to breaking, but their application to the surf zone usually requires the use of complex parameterizations. We propose a new approach to describe wave breaking in S-GN models, based on the representation of breaking wave fronts as shocks. This method has been successfully applied to the Nonlinear Shallow Water (NSW) equations, and allows for an easy treatment of wave breaking and shoreline motions. However, the NSW equations can only be applied after breaking. In this thesis, we aim at extending the validity domain of the NSW model SURF-WB (Marche et al. 2007) to the shoaling zone by adding the S-GN dispersive terms to the governing equations. Local switches to NSW equations are then performed in the vicinity of the breaking fronts, allowing for the waves to break and dissipate their energy. Extensive validations using laboratory data are presented. The new model, called SURF-GN, is then applied to study tsunami-like undular bore dynamics in the nearshore. The model ability to describe bore dynamics for…

Advisors/Committee Members: Bonneton, Philippe (thesis director), Marche, Fabien (thesis director).

Subjects/Keywords: Modèle de type Boussinesq fortement non-linéaire; Zone de surf; Théorie des chocs; Schémas hybrides; Franchissement; Ressauts ondulés; Célérité des vagues déferlées; Fully non-linear Boussinesq type model; Surf zone; Shock theory; Hybrid schemes; Overtopping; Undular bores; Broken wave celerity

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6th Edition):

Tissier, M. (2011). Etude numérique de la transformation des vagues en zone littorale, de la zone de levée aux zones de surf et de jet de rive : Extraction of the marine sponge Axinella donnani and synthesis of dispacamide A analogues. (Doctoral Dissertation). Université de Bordeaux I. Retrieved from http://www.theses.fr/2011BOR14437

Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):

Tissier, Marion. “Etude numérique de la transformation des vagues en zone littorale, de la zone de levée aux zones de surf et de jet de rive : Extraction of the marine sponge Axinella donnani and synthesis of dispacamide A analogues.” 2011. Doctoral Dissertation, Université de Bordeaux I. Accessed July 09, 2020. http://www.theses.fr/2011BOR14437.

MLA Handbook (7th Edition):

Tissier, Marion. “Etude numérique de la transformation des vagues en zone littorale, de la zone de levée aux zones de surf et de jet de rive : Extraction of the marine sponge Axinella donnani and synthesis of dispacamide A analogues.” 2011. Web. 09 Jul 2020.

Vancouver:

Tissier M. Etude numérique de la transformation des vagues en zone littorale, de la zone de levée aux zones de surf et de jet de rive : Extraction of the marine sponge Axinella donnani and synthesis of dispacamide A analogues. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. Université de Bordeaux I; 2011. [cited 2020 Jul 09]. Available from: http://www.theses.fr/2011BOR14437.

Council of Science Editors:

Tissier M. Etude numérique de la transformation des vagues en zone littorale, de la zone de levée aux zones de surf et de jet de rive : Extraction of the marine sponge Axinella donnani and synthesis of dispacamide A analogues. [Doctoral Dissertation]. Université de Bordeaux I; 2011. Available from: http://www.theses.fr/2011BOR14437

2. Metallinos, Anastasios. Υδροδυναμικές συνθήκες σε ύφαλο διαπερατό κυματοθραύστη λόγω θαλασσίων κυματισμών.

Degree: 2016, National Technical University of Athens (NTUA); Εθνικό Μετσόβιο Πολυτεχνείο (ΕΜΠ)

Submerged breakwaters (SB), often rubble mound structures, are frequently built along the coast toreduce the impact of waves and currents affecting the shoreline, mainly by induced wave breaking, andto prevent beach erosion. This type of low-crested breakwaters enhances its acceptability due to itsenvironmental advantages mainly in easing water circulation near the surface reducing thus anyadverse impact on water quality, while ensuring the aesthetic value of the coastal landscape. Theseconsiderations demonstrate that the introduction of SB for protection of the coastal zone is a promisingfield of research. A solid understanding of the interaction between water waves and SB is thus vital,especially in SB with relatively steep slopes which are more commonly used.Only a little is known on how marine organisms respond to the SB’s presence. Hydrodynamicconditions, in the body of the structure, are known to be of significance for the habitation of marine lifewithin and around the barrier. Indeed, in assessing the ecological impact of such a structure,knowledge of hydrodynamic field in the interior of the structure is of prime importance. The main targetfor technical applications is trying to combine the structure’s technical efficiency with ecologicalrequirements. A key parameter to assess the shelter SB provide to the local habitats is the waterparticle velocity and pore pressure in the interior of the structure.In this study, in order to extent the applicability of a fully dispersive and highly nonlinear 2DHBoussinesq-type model presented by Chondros and Memos (2014), a depth-averaged Darcy equation,extended to include 2DH Forchheimer terms, calculating the flow within the porous medium followingthe approach of Cruz et al. (1997) and Avgeris et al. (2004). The modified Boussinesq-type model,referred to as mCM14 hereinafter, incorporates extra 2DH terms accounting for the interaction betweenthe waves over the structure and the flow within the porous breakwater. Also, a major point of thisstudy is to go a step further from the depth averaged velocity of the Boussinesq model in the interior ofthe structure and to present a method, that is not too difficult numerically, for estimating the distributionof horizontal particle velocities in two directions and respectively as well as pore pressures in theinterior of a submerged permeable structure. A velocity profile, based on a distribution of the nonlinearwave theory (Dingemans, 1997), is fitted to the numerically predicted depth-integrated velocity given bymCM14 in the SB interior. Further, another method based in the full form of Darcy-Forchheimerequation is reworked to obtain the pore pressure as a function of the velocities quantities.Due to the small number of experiments including wave propagation over SB with steep slopes and extreme porosity and practically the lack of laboratory measurements of velocities and pressures in theinterior of the structure, an adequate number of 1DH and 2DH experiments were conducted during thepresent research. Specifically, for the sake of…

Subjects/Keywords: Αριθμητικό μοντέλο τύπου Boussinesq; Εργαστηριακές μετρήσεις 1DH & 2DH; Διαπερατές κατασκευές; Κατανομή πιέσεων; Κατανομή ταχυτήτων; Μετρήσεις ανύψωσης/ταπείνωσης στάθμης ελεύθερης επιφάνειας; Μετρήσεις πιέσεων; Μετρήσεις ταχυτήτων; Μονοχρωματικοί κυματισμοί; Παράκτιες κατασκευές; Περιβαλλοντική μηχανική; Ροή Forchheimer; Σύνθετοι κυματισμοί; Ύφαλοι κυματοθράυστες; Boussinesq-type model; Coastal structures; Ecological engineering; Forchheimer flow; Jonswap waveς; Laboratory experiments 1DH & 2DH; Permeable structures; Pore pressure measurements; Porepressure distribution; Porous structures; Regular waves; Submerged breakwaters; Surface elevation measurements; Velocity distribution; Velocity measurements; Wave kinematics

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6th Edition):

Metallinos, A. (2016). Υδροδυναμικές συνθήκες σε ύφαλο διαπερατό κυματοθραύστη λόγω θαλασσίων κυματισμών. (Thesis). National Technical University of Athens (NTUA); Εθνικό Μετσόβιο Πολυτεχνείο (ΕΜΠ). Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/10442/hedi/44014

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Chicago Manual of Style (16th Edition):

Metallinos, Anastasios. “Υδροδυναμικές συνθήκες σε ύφαλο διαπερατό κυματοθραύστη λόγω θαλασσίων κυματισμών.” 2016. Thesis, National Technical University of Athens (NTUA); Εθνικό Μετσόβιο Πολυτεχνείο (ΕΜΠ). Accessed July 09, 2020. http://hdl.handle.net/10442/hedi/44014.

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

MLA Handbook (7th Edition):

Metallinos, Anastasios. “Υδροδυναμικές συνθήκες σε ύφαλο διαπερατό κυματοθραύστη λόγω θαλασσίων κυματισμών.” 2016. Web. 09 Jul 2020.

Vancouver:

Metallinos A. Υδροδυναμικές συνθήκες σε ύφαλο διαπερατό κυματοθραύστη λόγω θαλασσίων κυματισμών. [Internet] [Thesis]. National Technical University of Athens (NTUA); Εθνικό Μετσόβιο Πολυτεχνείο (ΕΜΠ); 2016. [cited 2020 Jul 09]. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/10442/hedi/44014.

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Council of Science Editors:

Metallinos A. Υδροδυναμικές συνθήκες σε ύφαλο διαπερατό κυματοθραύστη λόγω θαλασσίων κυματισμών. [Thesis]. National Technical University of Athens (NTUA); Εθνικό Μετσόβιο Πολυτεχνείο (ΕΜΠ); 2016. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/10442/hedi/44014

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

.