subject:( Morphodynamic model)

Delft University of Technology

1. Rozendaal, Marco (author). An Idealised Morphodynamic Model of a Tidal Inlet and the Adjacent Sea.

Degree: 2019, Delft University of Technology

URL: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:edc2ffd6-00fd-4cd6-883b-13b14528cb72

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Tidal inlet systems are often highly valuable and sometimes even unique ecosystems. However, field measurements show that tidal inlet systems are sensitive to changing exogenous… (more)

Subjects/Keywords: Morphodynamic model; Idealised model; Tidal inlet system; Tidal embayment; Morphodynamic equilibrium; Equilibrium bed profiles; Stability analysis

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APA (6^th Edition):

Rozendaal, M. (. (2019). An Idealised Morphodynamic Model of a Tidal Inlet and the Adjacent Sea. (Masters Thesis). Delft University of Technology. Retrieved from http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:edc2ffd6-00fd-4cd6-883b-13b14528cb72

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Rozendaal, Marco (author). “An Idealised Morphodynamic Model of a Tidal Inlet and the Adjacent Sea.” 2019. Masters Thesis, Delft University of Technology. Accessed January 27, 2021. http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:edc2ffd6-00fd-4cd6-883b-13b14528cb72.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Rozendaal, Marco (author). “An Idealised Morphodynamic Model of a Tidal Inlet and the Adjacent Sea.” 2019. Web. 27 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Rozendaal M(. An Idealised Morphodynamic Model of a Tidal Inlet and the Adjacent Sea. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2019. [cited 2021 Jan 27]. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:edc2ffd6-00fd-4cd6-883b-13b14528cb72.

Council of Science Editors:

Rozendaal M(. An Idealised Morphodynamic Model of a Tidal Inlet and the Adjacent Sea. [Masters Thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2019. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:edc2ffd6-00fd-4cd6-883b-13b14528cb72

Delft University of Technology

2. Gradussen, Bas (author). Schematisation of discharge time series in morphodynamic river models.

Degree: 2019, Delft University of Technology

URL: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:dff92c0c-c511-46d2-aeb2-ac1792f8256a

► River discharge is an essential parameter in morphodynamic modelling. It proves to be highly variable in both time and space. In this thesis the impact… (more)

▼ River discharge is an essential parameter in morphodynamic modelling. It proves to be highly variable in both time and space. In this thesis the impact of the schematisation of time-dependent discharge series on morphodynamic change is studied. The impact is governed by several factors such as the long-term discharge statistics, and both short- and long-term sequences of discharge stages. A variable river discharge itself does not necessarily result in morphodynamic change. Changes in conveyance area and roughness are dominant sources of bed fluctuations and bed waves. Moreover, backwater dominated segments are subject to mild fluctuations in the river bed. The combination of natural variation of hydrological processes in the upstream river catchment and the absence of a significant correlation among statistical characteristics of subsequent years makes it hard for river engineers to construct discharge time series for river models that simulate morphodynamic development. The limited predictability of future discharge time series is an important source of uncertainty in model predictions. A way to estimate this uncertainty is by means of a time-consuming Monte Carlo approach, resulting in a mean long-term morphodynamic trend and the associated uncertainty. An alternative method is the application of a deterministic series for which the long-term discharge statistics are translated into a cycled annual hydrograph (CAH). It is expected to yield similar morphodynamic changes with respect to the mean trend from the Monte Carlo approach without the need for a large number of computations. However, as is demonstrated in this study, the CAH-method lacks in performance in simulating average long-term development and the amplitude of fluctuations in the river bed, especially at locations where strong sediment transport gradients are experienced. Using a simplified two-dimensional model that represents a locally widened floodplain, the impact of the included bandwidth, short-term and long-term sequences on morphodynamic change is investigated. The aim is to improve the deterministic hydrograph schematisation and to find a more convenient way to get insight into uncertainty in simulated morphodynamics. These findings result in a set of recommendations for future schematisations of discharge time series in morphodynamic river models. An improved deterministic approach is proposed. Using historical measurements of daily discharge data, years with a similar statistical maximum, mean and standard deviation can be classified. The classified years are translated into multiple cycled annual hydrographs (MCAH). By using these hydrographs, synthetic time series are constructed. Compared to the CAH-approach, the proposed MCAH-method yields a significant reduction of the root mean square error with respect to the long-term average morphodynamic trend from the Monte Carlo simulations. Moreover, the MCAH-series result in amplitudes of bed fluctuations that are closer to the response to natural discharge time series. Finally, the MCAH-series… Advisors/Committee Members: Blom, Astrid (mentor), Labeur, Robert Jan (graduation committee), Barneveld, Hermjan (graduation committee), Sloff, Kees (graduation committee), Delft University of Technology (degree granting institution).

Subjects/Keywords: River morphodynamics; Variable discharge; Morphodynamic model; Long-term time series; Hydrograph

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APA (6^th Edition):

Gradussen, B. (. (2019). Schematisation of discharge time series in morphodynamic river models. (Masters Thesis). Delft University of Technology. Retrieved from http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:dff92c0c-c511-46d2-aeb2-ac1792f8256a

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Gradussen, Bas (author). “Schematisation of discharge time series in morphodynamic river models.” 2019. Masters Thesis, Delft University of Technology. Accessed January 27, 2021. http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:dff92c0c-c511-46d2-aeb2-ac1792f8256a.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Gradussen, Bas (author). “Schematisation of discharge time series in morphodynamic river models.” 2019. Web. 27 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Gradussen B(. Schematisation of discharge time series in morphodynamic river models. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2019. [cited 2021 Jan 27]. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:dff92c0c-c511-46d2-aeb2-ac1792f8256a.

Council of Science Editors:

Gradussen B(. Schematisation of discharge time series in morphodynamic river models. [Masters Thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2019. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:dff92c0c-c511-46d2-aeb2-ac1792f8256a

Delft University of Technology

3. Li, Zhaoyi (author). Large-scale and local morphological impact along the northern side of DELTA 21.

Degree: 2020, Delft University of Technology

URL: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:c5ba5c80-c90f-4dae-9cde-6d33839ab6d6

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This report investigates the long-term morphological changes caused by the DELTA 21 project at the northern side, including the large scale morphological development with Delft3D… (more)

Subjects/Keywords: DELTA 21; Morphodynamic model; Morphological; Delft3D; Unibest-CL+

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APA (6^th Edition):

Li, Z. (. (2020). Large-scale and local morphological impact along the northern side of DELTA 21. (Masters Thesis). Delft University of Technology. Retrieved from http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:c5ba5c80-c90f-4dae-9cde-6d33839ab6d6

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Li, Zhaoyi (author). “Large-scale and local morphological impact along the northern side of DELTA 21.” 2020. Masters Thesis, Delft University of Technology. Accessed January 27, 2021. http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:c5ba5c80-c90f-4dae-9cde-6d33839ab6d6.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Li, Zhaoyi (author). “Large-scale and local morphological impact along the northern side of DELTA 21.” 2020. Web. 27 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Li Z(. Large-scale and local morphological impact along the northern side of DELTA 21. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2020. [cited 2021 Jan 27]. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:c5ba5c80-c90f-4dae-9cde-6d33839ab6d6.

Council of Science Editors:

Li Z(. Large-scale and local morphological impact along the northern side of DELTA 21. [Masters Thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2020. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:c5ba5c80-c90f-4dae-9cde-6d33839ab6d6

Universiteit Utrecht

4. Vellinga, A.J. Morphodynamics of bedforms in a supercritical-flow regime: a depth-resolved numerical modelling approach.

Degree: 2014, Universiteit Utrecht

URL: http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/301315

► Both open-channel flows and density currents are able to create supercritical-flow bedforms. The morphodynamics of these supercritical-flow bedforms are, however, still poorly understood. This is… (more)

Subjects/Keywords: morphodynamic; supercritical; flow; bedform; bedforms; cyclic step; cyclic steps; RANS; depth-resolved; numerical; model

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APA (6^th Edition):

Vellinga, A. J. (2014). Morphodynamics of bedforms in a supercritical-flow regime: a depth-resolved numerical modelling approach. (Masters Thesis). Universiteit Utrecht. Retrieved from http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/301315

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Vellinga, A J. “Morphodynamics of bedforms in a supercritical-flow regime: a depth-resolved numerical modelling approach.” 2014. Masters Thesis, Universiteit Utrecht. Accessed January 27, 2021. http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/301315.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Vellinga, A J. “Morphodynamics of bedforms in a supercritical-flow regime: a depth-resolved numerical modelling approach.” 2014. Web. 27 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Vellinga AJ. Morphodynamics of bedforms in a supercritical-flow regime: a depth-resolved numerical modelling approach. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Universiteit Utrecht; 2014. [cited 2021 Jan 27]. Available from: http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/301315.

Council of Science Editors:

Vellinga AJ. Morphodynamics of bedforms in a supercritical-flow regime: a depth-resolved numerical modelling approach. [Masters Thesis]. Universiteit Utrecht; 2014. Available from: http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/301315

5. Mendes, D. Study of the hydrodynamics and morhodynamics of the Óbidos Lagoon, Portugal.

Degree: 2015, RCAAP

URL: http://www.rcaap.pt/detail.jsp?id=oai:localhost:123456789/1007356

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Este registo pertence ao Repositório Científico do LNEC

Na lagoa de Óbidos, as ondas e as correntes de maré induzem rápidas alterações morfológicas levando ao… (more)

Subjects/Keywords: Morphodynamic model; Dredging; Wave-induced processes; Tidal inlets; Transverse channels; Dredging equilibrium depth

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APA (6^th Edition):

Mendes, D. (2015). Study of the hydrodynamics and morhodynamics of the Óbidos Lagoon, Portugal. (Thesis). RCAAP. Retrieved from http://www.rcaap.pt/detail.jsp?id=oai:localhost:123456789/1007356

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Mendes, D. “Study of the hydrodynamics and morhodynamics of the Óbidos Lagoon, Portugal.” 2015. Thesis, RCAAP. Accessed January 27, 2021. http://www.rcaap.pt/detail.jsp?id=oai:localhost:123456789/1007356.

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Mendes, D. “Study of the hydrodynamics and morhodynamics of the Óbidos Lagoon, Portugal.” 2015. Web. 27 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Mendes D. Study of the hydrodynamics and morhodynamics of the Óbidos Lagoon, Portugal. [Internet] [Thesis]. RCAAP; 2015. [cited 2021 Jan 27]. Available from: http://www.rcaap.pt/detail.jsp?id=oai:localhost:123456789/1007356.

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Council of Science Editors:

Mendes D. Study of the hydrodynamics and morhodynamics of the Óbidos Lagoon, Portugal. [Thesis]. RCAAP; 2015. Available from: http://www.rcaap.pt/detail.jsp?id=oai:localhost:123456789/1007356

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

University of Otago

6. Winter, Margaret Shirley Anne. Classification of Gravel Component Lake Beaches in the South Island, New Zealand .

Degree: 2013, University of Otago

URL: http://hdl.handle.net/10523/3850

► Lake beaches with a gravel component (sediments > 2 mm in b-axis diameter) have received very little attention in the coastal geomorphology literature. This research… (more)

▼ Lake beaches with a gravel component (sediments > 2 mm in b-axis diameter) have received very little attention in the coastal geomorphology literature. This research is based on 19 lakes in the South Island of New Zealand that were surveyed and sampled in summer, 2010 to 2011, and winter, 2011. Methods included lakeshore surveys, sediment sieving, and lake wave hindcasting using the ACES model. Results show that three types of lake beach were present. The beach types were pure gravel beaches (all sediments > 2 mm diameter), mixed sand and gravel (MSG) beaches (mixed sediments down the profile), and composite gravel beaches (pure gravel upper beach with an often shallower sand/silt lower profile). MSG beaches sometimes lacked sand in the upper shore and changed to a more mixed sand and gravel sediment in the lower shore. Two of the seven composite beaches studied displayed mixed sediment in the upper shore instead of pure gravel. Linear discriminant analysis returned a good discrimination rate between lake beach types (66.7 % of beach correctly predicted), though only sorting was a useful discriminator (average grain size, sorting, beach width, storm berm elevation, number of berms, and Iribarren number were tested). This compared poorly with a previous classification scheme developed for oceanic gravel component beaches. Lacustrine gravel component beaches were generally narrower (pure gravel: 0.41 – 18.67 m, MSG: 1.09 – 31.02 m, and composite: 0.62 – 94.66 m, though most were between 1-5 m wide) and steeper than the oceanic beaches. No relationship could be found between average grain size and beach slope for any lake beach types. The lake beaches did not demonstrate any cuspate morphology or beach steps, however armouring was observed in some cases at the shoreline, regardless of lake beach type. Other results from this study found that the number of berms on the profiles were significantly different between summer and winter (p value = 0.008). When the lakes used for hydroelectric power generation were removed however, this variable no longer showed any difference, suggesting the influence of lake level changes of the lake beaches. None of the other measured profile features were significantly different between summer and winter. Hindcasted wave data for the lake beaches found that two thirds received Hmo > 0.5 m, and Tp > 3 s. This suggests the limited wave energy available on lakes to rework sediments, though measured wave data is required to validate these findings. Finally, a morphodynamic model is presented for lacustrine beaches with a gravel component, which is placed within the wider conceptual framework of two previously well accepted morphodynamic models. Advisors/Committee Members: Stephenson, Wayne (advisor).

Subjects/Keywords: Lake; Beach; New Zealand; Linear discriminant analysis; ACES; Hindcast; Morphodynamic model; Gravel beach; Mixed sand and gravel

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Winter, M. S. A. (2013). Classification of Gravel Component Lake Beaches in the South Island, New Zealand . (Masters Thesis). University of Otago. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/10523/3850

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Winter, Margaret Shirley Anne. “Classification of Gravel Component Lake Beaches in the South Island, New Zealand .” 2013. Masters Thesis, University of Otago. Accessed January 27, 2021. http://hdl.handle.net/10523/3850.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Winter, Margaret Shirley Anne. “Classification of Gravel Component Lake Beaches in the South Island, New Zealand .” 2013. Web. 27 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Winter MSA. Classification of Gravel Component Lake Beaches in the South Island, New Zealand . [Internet] [Masters thesis]. University of Otago; 2013. [cited 2021 Jan 27]. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/10523/3850.

Council of Science Editors:

Winter MSA. Classification of Gravel Component Lake Beaches in the South Island, New Zealand . [Masters Thesis]. University of Otago; 2013. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/10523/3850

Delft University of Technology

7. Scheel, F. (author). Simulating and classifying large-scale spatial sand-mud segregation using a process-based model for a tidal inlet system.

Degree: 2012, Delft University of Technology

URL: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:b292d0a7-9ed5-4fd4-8e9d-f7aec7053beb

► Tidal inlet systems, as found in the Dutch Wadden Sea, often feature both sand and mud. Due to differences in sediment properties, sand and mud… (more)

▼ Tidal inlet systems, as found in the Dutch Wadden Sea, often feature both sand and mud. Due to differences in sediment properties, sand and mud particles respond different to identical forcing conditions, like short waves and tidal currents. Because of this, sand and mud can get transported to different locations. This process is referred to by sand-mud segregation. Sand-mud segregation can have considerable influences on bathymetry, potential pollution and flora & fauna. It is because of these aspects that predictions on sand-mud segregation are needed. To predict sand-mud segregation, commonly for a practical scenario, a morphodynamic model can be used. Though, modelling a practical scenario often comprises a complex bathymetry and various non-linear processes, that contribute to sand-mud segregation, occur. Because of this, practical sand-mud segregation models are often hard to understand, give little insight in the overall processes and discrepancies with reality are often found within the results. These problems can be overcome by considering a schematized scenario, where only the overall forcing conditions (tidal currents and short waves) are considered, along with a schematized bathymetry and geometry. By considering a schematized scenario of the Amelander tidal inlet system, the large-scale sand-mud segregation patterns can be reproduced. It is found, e.g. in observations from the field and theoretical descriptions, that mud is commonly found in less hydrodynamic active areas (as long as mud is available). Within the Amelander tidal inlet system, mud is therefore found in the shallow intertidal areas, far from the deeper hydrodynamically active areas, like the tidal inlet and tidal channels. The schematized process-based model (a newly developed sand-mud version of Delft3D, which accounts for (non) cohesive regimes, a layered stratigraphy and consolidation lag) also reproduces these large-scale spatial sand-mud segregation patterns, with the schematized process-based approach. By combining the schematized model approach with variations in relative forcing domination (by tidal currents or short waves), various scenarios can be considered. From observations in the field and associated sand-mud segregation theory, one always expects mud deposition in less hydrodynamically active areas. Given the properties of tidal currents and short waves, it is hypothesized that mud is commonly found in deeper/shallow areas, respectively for a relative dominance of tidal currents/short waves. Results from the schematized process-based model support this hypothesis. Mud is transported to deeper areas when short wave domination is imposed, while mud is commonly found in shallow areas for a tidally dominated system. A schematized process-based sand-mud segregation model is able to reproduce large-scale spatial sand-mud segregation patterns for a practical case (the Amelander tidal inlet system). Furthermore, a classification can be set up, relating these large-scale spatial sand-mud segregation patterns to relative forcing… Advisors/Committee Members: Stive, M.J.F. (mentor), Winterwerp, J.C. (mentor), Wang, Z.B. (mentor), Van Ledden, M. (mentor), Van Prooijen, B.C. (mentor).

Subjects/Keywords: sand-mud; segregation; simulating; modelling; classifying; morphodynamic; Wadden Sea; process-based model; tidal basins; Delft3D; sediment; transport

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APA (6^th Edition):

Scheel, F. (. (2012). Simulating and classifying large-scale spatial sand-mud segregation using a process-based model for a tidal inlet system. (Masters Thesis). Delft University of Technology. Retrieved from http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:b292d0a7-9ed5-4fd4-8e9d-f7aec7053beb

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Scheel, F (author). “Simulating and classifying large-scale spatial sand-mud segregation using a process-based model for a tidal inlet system.” 2012. Masters Thesis, Delft University of Technology. Accessed January 27, 2021. http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:b292d0a7-9ed5-4fd4-8e9d-f7aec7053beb.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Scheel, F (author). “Simulating and classifying large-scale spatial sand-mud segregation using a process-based model for a tidal inlet system.” 2012. Web. 27 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Scheel F(. Simulating and classifying large-scale spatial sand-mud segregation using a process-based model for a tidal inlet system. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2012. [cited 2021 Jan 27]. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:b292d0a7-9ed5-4fd4-8e9d-f7aec7053beb.

Council of Science Editors:

Scheel F(. Simulating and classifying large-scale spatial sand-mud segregation using a process-based model for a tidal inlet system. [Masters Thesis]. Delft University of Technology; 2012. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:b292d0a7-9ed5-4fd4-8e9d-f7aec7053beb

8. Bouvier, Clément. Barres d’avant-côte et trait de côte : dynamique, couplage et effets induits par la mise en place d’un atténuateur de houle : Sandbars and shoreline dynamics associated with the implementation of a submerged breakwater.

Degree: Docteur es, Physique de l'environnement, 2019, Bordeaux

URL: http://www.theses.fr/2019BORD0088

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Ces dernières années, de nouvelles stratégies ciblant un accompagnement de la mobilité du trait de côte plutôt que sa fixation ont vu le jour. Parmi… (more)

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Ces dernières années, de nouvelles stratégies ciblant un accompagnement de la mobilité du trait de côte plutôt que sa fixation ont vu le jour. Parmi celles-ci, les ouvrages atténuateur de houle visent à protéger la côte en dissipant l’énergie des vagues par déferlement bathymétrique, tout en restant invisibles depuis la plage. Leur utilisation a toutefois eu des effets contrastés et les processus hydro-sédimentaires induits par ces structures restent mal connus. L’objectif général de ce travail est de mieux comprendre les effets de ces atténuateurs de houle sur la morphodynamique littorale, notamment sur des sites où l’évolution de l’avant-côte est complexe et dynamique. L’observation des effets induits par un atténuateur de houle installé au lido de Sète (Golfe du Lion), sur la dynamique littorale est réalisée via un dispositif vidéo qui permet de caractériser l’évolution morphologique du système. En s’appuyant sur une méthode automatique de correction des images développée dans le cadre de cette thèse, l’estimation de la bathymétrie par inversion de la célérité des vagues et ses erreurs associées sont évaluées pour la première fois en Méditerranée. Les observations montrent que l’atténuateur de houle impacte de manière importante la morphologie et la dynamique des barres sableuses pré-littorales et révèlent que l’élargissement de la plage résulte principalement de son couplage avec la nouvelle forme de barre plus linéaire. Le modèle morphodynamique 2DBeach est ensuite implémenté sur Sète et sur un second site atelier en Australie où un récif artificiel de taille et de forme différente a été mis en place. Les simulations réalisées permettent de déterminer les circulations induites par ces ouvrages ainsi que les évolutions sédimentaires associées. Enfin, ce travail met en lumière les différents processus physiques contrôlant l’influence d’un atténuateur de houle sur les évolutions morphologiques des barres sableuses pré-littorales et du trait de côte, et renforce des connaissances essentielles à la gestion durable des plages sableuses.

In recent years, traditional coastal defense strategy has become increasingly unpopular as it is costly and lastingly scars the landscape with sometimes limited effectiveness or even adverse impact. Mimicking natural reefs, submerged breakwaters aims to protect the coast, decreasing wave energy through wave breaking offshore with the advantage of remaining invisible from the beach. The general objective of this work is to better understand the different morphodynamic processes that interact in the presence of these structures, especially for complex beach morphology with highly dynamic sandbars. The observation of the effects induced by a submerged breakwater deployed at the Lido of Sète (Gulf of Lions) on the morphological response is performed using a video monitoring system. Based on an automatic method for image correction developed in this thesis, a video-derived depth inversion algorithm was tested to infer nearshore bathymetry from remotely-sensed wave parameters. Our…

Advisors/Committee Members: Castelle, Bruno (thesis director), Balouin, Yann (thesis director).

Subjects/Keywords: Atténuateur de houle; Barres d’avant côte; Trait de côte; Imagerie vidéo; Inversion bathymétrique; Modèle morphodynamique; Submerged breakwater; Sandbars; Shoreline; Video imagery; Bathymetric inversion; Morphodynamic model

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Bouvier, C. (2019). Barres d’avant-côte et trait de côte : dynamique, couplage et effets induits par la mise en place d’un atténuateur de houle : Sandbars and shoreline dynamics associated with the implementation of a submerged breakwater. (Doctoral Dissertation). Bordeaux. Retrieved from http://www.theses.fr/2019BORD0088

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Bouvier, Clément. “Barres d’avant-côte et trait de côte : dynamique, couplage et effets induits par la mise en place d’un atténuateur de houle : Sandbars and shoreline dynamics associated with the implementation of a submerged breakwater.” 2019. Doctoral Dissertation, Bordeaux. Accessed January 27, 2021. http://www.theses.fr/2019BORD0088.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Bouvier, Clément. “Barres d’avant-côte et trait de côte : dynamique, couplage et effets induits par la mise en place d’un atténuateur de houle : Sandbars and shoreline dynamics associated with the implementation of a submerged breakwater.” 2019. Web. 27 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Bouvier C. Barres d’avant-côte et trait de côte : dynamique, couplage et effets induits par la mise en place d’un atténuateur de houle : Sandbars and shoreline dynamics associated with the implementation of a submerged breakwater. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. Bordeaux; 2019. [cited 2021 Jan 27]. Available from: http://www.theses.fr/2019BORD0088.

Council of Science Editors:

Bouvier C. Barres d’avant-côte et trait de côte : dynamique, couplage et effets induits par la mise en place d’un atténuateur de houle : Sandbars and shoreline dynamics associated with the implementation of a submerged breakwater. [Doctoral Dissertation]. Bordeaux; 2019. Available from: http://www.theses.fr/2019BORD0088

9. Yuan, B. Modeling the dynamics of offshore tidal sand ridges.

Degree: 2017, University Utrecht

URL: https://dspace.library.uu.nl/handle/1874/350884 ; URN:NBN:NL:UI:10-1874-350884 ; 1874/350884 ; urn:isbn:9789039368008 ; URN:NBN:NL:UI:10-1874-350884 ; https://dspace.library.uu.nl/handle/1874/350884

► Tidal sand ridges are large-scale bedforms with horizontal dimensions of several kilometers and heights of tens of meters. They occur in the offshore area of… (more)

▼ Tidal sand ridges are large-scale bedforms with horizontal dimensions of several kilometers and heights of tens of meters. They occur in the offshore area of shelf seas that have a wide range of water depths (10-200 m). Based on their present-day behavior, ridges are classified as `active' (sand transport everywhere), `quasi-active' (sand transport in parts of the ridge area) and `moribund' (sand transport nowhere). They evolve on a timescale of centuries due to tide-topography interactions and they are shaped by wind waves. During their evolution, ridges are also affected by changes in sea level, strength and direction of the tidal current. A literature survey resulted in three research questions on the dynamics of thsee ridges. The first one concerns the effect of different formulations of bed shear stress and sand transport on the growth characteristics of these bedforms (growth rate and wavelength). The second one is on the sensitivity of the characteristics of finite-height ridges (their shape and growth time) to either 1D or 2D configurations (topography varies in one/two horizontal dimensions). The third one concerns the effect of changes in the characteristics of the sea level and the tidal current on the long-term evolution of these ridges. An idealized nonlinear morphodynamic model was developed and used for the above questions. Main findings are listed below. Regarding the initial formation of tidal sand ridges, the formulations for bed shear stress and slope-induced sand transport are not critical. For these ridges, under rectilinear tidal currents, increasing the critical velocity for sand erosion decreases the growth rate and the wavelength of the preferred bedform significantly. Besides tidal sand ridges, long bed waves are also found if the critical velocity for sand erosion is slightly smaller than the tidal current amplitude. For the nonlinear evolution of tidal sand ridges, neglecting changes in the sea level and tidal conditions, in the case of a 1D configuration, the root mean square height hrms of ridges first grows exponentially and hereafter saturates. In the end, ridges in static equilibrium are obtained, i.e., hrms remains constant. In contrast, when the configuration is 2D, ridges are found with spatially meandering crests that oscillate in time. Initially the bedforms are composed of a finite number of bottom modes. The occurrence of the meanders relates to the presence of bottom modes with crests normal to those of the initially preferred bedform. If changes in the sea level and tidal conditions are accounted for, with increasing rates of sea level rise, for active tidal sand ridges, their growth time becomes longer, and hrms keeps on increasing. On the considered time scale (10000 years), assuming a constant wave climate, quasi-active ridges occur mainly as a result of a decreasing tidal current amplitude such that the effective velocity (in the sense of stirring sand) becomes smaller than the critical velocity for sand erosion. The ridges further become moribund on a time scale that… Advisors/Committee Members: de Swart, Huib.

Subjects/Keywords: Sand banks; continental shelf; North Sea; Celtic Sea; morphodynamic model

…morphodynamic model using a 1D configuration was presented and used to simulate the time evolution of… …morphodynamic model was developed, based on the work of Caballeria et al. (2002) and Garnier… …detailed description of the idealized nonlinear morphodynamic model is given. The way to apply… …x28;2006), an idealized nonlinear numerical morphodynamic model was developed, which governs… …current and the x-axis. Other symbols are explained in the text. The morphodynamic model…

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APA (6^th Edition):

Yuan, B. (2017). Modeling the dynamics of offshore tidal sand ridges. (Doctoral Dissertation). University Utrecht. Retrieved from https://dspace.library.uu.nl/handle/1874/350884 ; URN:NBN:NL:UI:10-1874-350884 ; 1874/350884 ; urn:isbn:9789039368008 ; URN:NBN:NL:UI:10-1874-350884 ; https://dspace.library.uu.nl/handle/1874/350884

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Yuan, B. “Modeling the dynamics of offshore tidal sand ridges.” 2017. Doctoral Dissertation, University Utrecht. Accessed January 27, 2021. https://dspace.library.uu.nl/handle/1874/350884 ; URN:NBN:NL:UI:10-1874-350884 ; 1874/350884 ; urn:isbn:9789039368008 ; URN:NBN:NL:UI:10-1874-350884 ; https://dspace.library.uu.nl/handle/1874/350884.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Yuan, B. “Modeling the dynamics of offshore tidal sand ridges.” 2017. Web. 27 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Yuan B. Modeling the dynamics of offshore tidal sand ridges. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. University Utrecht; 2017. [cited 2021 Jan 27]. Available from: https://dspace.library.uu.nl/handle/1874/350884 ; URN:NBN:NL:UI:10-1874-350884 ; 1874/350884 ; urn:isbn:9789039368008 ; URN:NBN:NL:UI:10-1874-350884 ; https://dspace.library.uu.nl/handle/1874/350884.

Council of Science Editors:

Yuan B. Modeling the dynamics of offshore tidal sand ridges. [Doctoral Dissertation]. University Utrecht; 2017. Available from: https://dspace.library.uu.nl/handle/1874/350884 ; URN:NBN:NL:UI:10-1874-350884 ; 1874/350884 ; urn:isbn:9789039368008 ; URN:NBN:NL:UI:10-1874-350884 ; https://dspace.library.uu.nl/handle/1874/350884

Delft University of Technology

10. Garcia Triana, I.D.T.F. Towards a data assimilation system for morphodynamic modeling.

Degree: 2014, Delft University of Technology

URL: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:894ef142-80f6-4378-b0cb-6fdc932435ce ; urn:NBN:nl:ui:24-uuid:894ef142-80f6-4378-b0cb-6fdc932435ce ; urn:NBN:nl:ui:24-uuid:894ef142-80f6-4378-b0cb-6fdc932435ce ; http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:894ef142-80f6-4378-b0cb-6fdc932435ce

► Currently, available models are not able to accurately predict the temporal evolution of coastal morphodynamic processes. The main reason for this, is that essential components… (more)

▼ Currently, available models are not able to accurately predict the temporal evolution of coastal morphodynamic processes. The main reason for this, is that essential components governing this evolution are neither fully identified nor understood. Additionally, there is high uncertainty in some of the parameterizations and their input parameters. A proper management of coastal systems depends on a thorough understanding of their present and future state. Regarding the present state of the system, detailed analyses that take into account the inference of human activities and interactions with other natural process may provide the required information to the decision makers. The evaluation of future states, on the other hand, is not possible without the use of data assimilation, i.e. integration of measurements and predictions in the context of formal uncertainty analysis. Despite the need to implement data assimilation, only recently the necessary coastal observations became available. Since then, the integration of data assimilation methods and coastal morphodynamic models have become the focus of ongoing research. Unfortunately, the implementation of these methods is not straightforward. Sequential data assimilation methods, such as ensemble Kalman filter, are practical to implement but their update usually breaks conservation laws and may easily result in model instabilities. Variational (adjoint based) schemes, on the other hand, preserve the physical integrity but require the implementation of an adjoint model which commonly matches in complexity the forward model. This thesis is concerned with the implementation of a variational data assimilation method to improve the predictive skills of a commercial model by estimating its input parameters. Model reduced 4DVar was used to address the problem. This method is an adjoint-free variational method that uses a truncated first order Taylor approximation of the morphodynamic model to implement the data assimilation process. The construction of the Taylor approximation is considerably simpler than the development of a full adjoint model. Additionally, the method provides the sensitivity of the morphodynamic model with respect to the state and/or input parameter vector. Regarding the commercial morphodynamic model, on the other hand, the Delft3D suite was selected. Delft3D is a module based simulator that merges a wave module and a flow and morphodynamic module to produce a fully coupled wave, flow and morphodynamic model. To gain a better understanding of the method and the potential challenges of its implementation on a real application, the technique is first applied to a small study case with synthetic observations (twin experiment). In this \emph{proof of concept}, three wave properties were estimated by assimilating observations of bathymetry. Different reduction strategies were implemented to characterize the method's performance and to assess the effects of uncertain observations on the results. The data assimilation method is able to improve the performance of… Advisors/Committee Members: Heemink, A.W., Schuttelaars, H.M..

Subjects/Keywords: data assimilation; EnMOR; 4DVar; model order reduction; reduced order model; model reduced 4DVar; morphodynamic

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APA (6^th Edition):

Garcia Triana, I. D. T. F. (2014). Towards a data assimilation system for morphodynamic modeling. (Doctoral Dissertation). Delft University of Technology. Retrieved from http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:894ef142-80f6-4378-b0cb-6fdc932435ce ; urn:NBN:nl:ui:24-uuid:894ef142-80f6-4378-b0cb-6fdc932435ce ; urn:NBN:nl:ui:24-uuid:894ef142-80f6-4378-b0cb-6fdc932435ce ; http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:894ef142-80f6-4378-b0cb-6fdc932435ce

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Garcia Triana, I D T F. “Towards a data assimilation system for morphodynamic modeling.” 2014. Doctoral Dissertation, Delft University of Technology. Accessed January 27, 2021. http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:894ef142-80f6-4378-b0cb-6fdc932435ce ; urn:NBN:nl:ui:24-uuid:894ef142-80f6-4378-b0cb-6fdc932435ce ; urn:NBN:nl:ui:24-uuid:894ef142-80f6-4378-b0cb-6fdc932435ce ; http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:894ef142-80f6-4378-b0cb-6fdc932435ce.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Garcia Triana, I D T F. “Towards a data assimilation system for morphodynamic modeling.” 2014. Web. 27 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Garcia Triana IDTF. Towards a data assimilation system for morphodynamic modeling. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. Delft University of Technology; 2014. [cited 2021 Jan 27]. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:894ef142-80f6-4378-b0cb-6fdc932435ce ; urn:NBN:nl:ui:24-uuid:894ef142-80f6-4378-b0cb-6fdc932435ce ; urn:NBN:nl:ui:24-uuid:894ef142-80f6-4378-b0cb-6fdc932435ce ; http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:894ef142-80f6-4378-b0cb-6fdc932435ce.

Council of Science Editors:

Garcia Triana IDTF. Towards a data assimilation system for morphodynamic modeling. [Doctoral Dissertation]. Delft University of Technology; 2014. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:894ef142-80f6-4378-b0cb-6fdc932435ce ; urn:NBN:nl:ui:24-uuid:894ef142-80f6-4378-b0cb-6fdc932435ce ; urn:NBN:nl:ui:24-uuid:894ef142-80f6-4378-b0cb-6fdc932435ce ; http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:894ef142-80f6-4378-b0cb-6fdc932435ce

Universiteit Utrecht

11. Chasapis Tassinis, K. Long-term evolution of surf zone sand bars:the effect of the surface rollers.

Degree: 2016, Universiteit Utrecht

URL: http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/325666

Subjects/Keywords: coastal morphology; morphodynamic model; beach dynamics; surf zone sand bars; surface rollers; crescentic bars; sediment transport

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APA (6^th Edition):

Chasapis Tassinis, K. (2016). Long-term evolution of surf zone sand bars:the effect of the surface rollers. (Masters Thesis). Universiteit Utrecht. Retrieved from http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/325666

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Chasapis Tassinis, K. “Long-term evolution of surf zone sand bars:the effect of the surface rollers.” 2016. Masters Thesis, Universiteit Utrecht. Accessed January 27, 2021. http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/325666.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Chasapis Tassinis, K. “Long-term evolution of surf zone sand bars:the effect of the surface rollers.” 2016. Web. 27 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Chasapis Tassinis K. Long-term evolution of surf zone sand bars:the effect of the surface rollers. [Internet] [Masters thesis]. Universiteit Utrecht; 2016. [cited 2021 Jan 27]. Available from: http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/325666.

Council of Science Editors:

Chasapis Tassinis K. Long-term evolution of surf zone sand bars:the effect of the surface rollers. [Masters Thesis]. Universiteit Utrecht; 2016. Available from: http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/325666

Universiteit Utrecht

12. Walgreen, M. Dynamics of sand ridges in coastal seas: the effect of storms, tides and grain sorting.

Degree: 2003, Universiteit Utrecht

URL: http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/703

► The work presented in this thesis concerns the dynamics of shoreface-connected ridges and tidal sand ridges. These large-scale bedforms are observed on the inner and… (more)

▼ The work presented in this thesis concerns the dynamics of shoreface-connected ridges and tidal sand ridges. These large-scale bedforms are observed on the inner and outer shelf of coastal seas in water depths of 10-20m. The motivation of this work is to improve the understanding of the mechanisms related to their formation and the processes that determine their main characteristics. This is done with the use of idealised morphodynamic models. The basic assumption underlying these models is that large-scale sand ridges can solely form as free instabilities on a flat sea bottom. Mathematical methods based on a stability analysis are applied, whereas analytical and numerical methods are used to solve the equations. Existing models are extended with new physical processes, in particular including the role of grain sorting. An important part of this thesis concerns the unresolved question about the origin of the observed mean grain size pattern over the ridges. It explores the hydrodynamic processes that can lead to sediment sorting and the formation of large-scale sand ridges. The model results indicate that the dynamics for different forcing conditions strongly differ. Shoreface-connected sand ridges mainly form during storm conditions, whereas if fair weather conditions prevail the more offshore located tidal sand ridges develop. A probabilistic formulation of these two realisation of the model is used to find conditions for which both types of large-scale bedforms occur simultaneously, as is the case in the southern North Sea. These conditions turn out to be a low storm fraction and the presence of both tidal and storm-driven currents. The transport of non-uniform sediment is described by formulations for both bed load and suspended load, both of which account for dynamic hiding effects. A one-layer model for the bed evolution is used and two grain size classes (fine and coarse sand) are considered. The results of the model for storm conditions indicate that the observed phase shift between bed topography and mean grain size for shoreface-connected ridges (finest sand on seaward flanks) is due to the selective transport via suspended load of grains with different sizes. Parameter values are based on the sand ridges along the Atlantic coast of North America. A net stabilising effect on the initial growth and an enhanced migration is predicted. A physical explanation for the model results is given. During fair weather or tidally dominated conditions, when bed load transport of sediment is dominant, the results indicate an increase in initial growth and migration rates of tidal sand ridges for a bimodal sediment mixture. A symmetrical tidal current results in a grain size distribution, with the coarsest sand found at the crest of the ridges. Results are compared with the tidal ridges on the Belgian coastal shelf. The investigation of the long-term evolution of shoreface-connected ridges focuses on storm-dominated micro-tidal shelves. It is shown that, starting from an initial state without bedforms, a pattern…

Subjects/Keywords: Natuur- en Sterrenkunde; shoreface-connected sand ridges; tidal sand ridges; coastal shelf; morphodynamic model; stability analysis; sediment transport; nonuniform sediment; grain sorting; storm-driven current; tidal current

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Walgreen, M. (2003). Dynamics of sand ridges in coastal seas: the effect of storms, tides and grain sorting. (Doctoral Dissertation). Universiteit Utrecht. Retrieved from http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/703

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Walgreen, M. “Dynamics of sand ridges in coastal seas: the effect of storms, tides and grain sorting.” 2003. Doctoral Dissertation, Universiteit Utrecht. Accessed January 27, 2021. http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/703.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Walgreen, M. “Dynamics of sand ridges in coastal seas: the effect of storms, tides and grain sorting.” 2003. Web. 27 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Walgreen M. Dynamics of sand ridges in coastal seas: the effect of storms, tides and grain sorting. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. Universiteit Utrecht; 2003. [cited 2021 Jan 27]. Available from: http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/703.

Council of Science Editors:

Walgreen M. Dynamics of sand ridges in coastal seas: the effect of storms, tides and grain sorting. [Doctoral Dissertation]. Universiteit Utrecht; 2003. Available from: http://dspace.library.uu.nl:8080/handle/1874/703

13. Walgreen, M. Dynamics of sand ridges in coastal seas: the effect of storms, tides and grain sorting.

Degree: 2003, University Utrecht

URL: https://dspace.library.uu.nl/handle/1874/703 ; URN:NBN:NL:UI:10-1874-703 ; 1874/703 ; URN:NBN:NL:UI:10-1874-703 ; https://dspace.library.uu.nl/handle/1874/703

► The work presented in this thesis concerns the dynamics of shoreface-connected ridges and tidal sand ridges. These large-scale bedforms are observed on the inner and… (more)

▼ The work presented in this thesis concerns the dynamics of shoreface-connected ridges and tidal sand ridges. These large-scale bedforms are observed on the inner and outer shelf of coastal seas in water depths of 10-20m. The motivation of this work is to improve the understanding of the mechanisms related to their formation and the processes that determine their main characteristics. This is done with the use of idealised morphodynamic models. The basic assumption underlying these models is that large-scale sand ridges can solely form as free instabilities on a flat sea bottom. Mathematical methods based on a stability analysis are applied, whereas analytical and numerical methods are used to solve the equations. Existing models are extended with new physical processes, in particular including the role of grain sorting. An important part of this thesis concerns the unresolved question about the origin of the observed mean grain size pattern over the ridges. It explores the hydrodynamic processes that can lead to sediment sorting and the formation of large-scale sand ridges. The model results indicate that the dynamics for different forcing conditions strongly differ. Shoreface-connected sand ridges mainly form during storm conditions, whereas if fair weather conditions prevail the more offshore located tidal sand ridges develop. A probabilistic formulation of these two realisation of the model is used to find conditions for which both types of large-scale bedforms occur simultaneously, as is the case in the southern North Sea. These conditions turn out to be a low storm fraction and the presence of both tidal and storm-driven currents. The transport of non-uniform sediment is described by formulations for both bed load and suspended load, both of which account for dynamic hiding effects. A one-layer model for the bed evolution is used and two grain size classes (fine and coarse sand) are considered. The results of the model for storm conditions indicate that the observed phase shift between bed topography and mean grain size for shoreface-connected ridges (finest sand on seaward flanks) is due to the selective transport via suspended load of grains with different sizes. Parameter values are based on the sand ridges along the Atlantic coast of North America. A net stabilising effect on the initial growth and an enhanced migration is predicted. A physical explanation for the model results is given. During fair weather or tidally dominated conditions, when bed load transport of sediment is dominant, the results indicate an increase in initial growth and migration rates of tidal sand ridges for a bimodal sediment mixture. A symmetrical tidal current results in a grain size distribution, with the coarsest sand found at the crest of the ridges. Results are compared with the tidal ridges on the Belgian coastal shelf. The investigation of the long-term evolution of shoreface-connected ridges focuses on storm-dominated micro-tidal shelves. It is shown that, starting from an initial state without bedforms, a pattern…

Subjects/Keywords: shoreface-connected sand ridges; tidal sand ridges; coastal shelf; morphodynamic model; stability analysis; sediment transport; nonuniform sediment; grain sorting; storm-driven current; tidal current

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Walgreen, M. (2003). Dynamics of sand ridges in coastal seas: the effect of storms, tides and grain sorting. (Doctoral Dissertation). University Utrecht. Retrieved from https://dspace.library.uu.nl/handle/1874/703 ; URN:NBN:NL:UI:10-1874-703 ; 1874/703 ; URN:NBN:NL:UI:10-1874-703 ; https://dspace.library.uu.nl/handle/1874/703

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Walgreen, M. “Dynamics of sand ridges in coastal seas: the effect of storms, tides and grain sorting.” 2003. Doctoral Dissertation, University Utrecht. Accessed January 27, 2021. https://dspace.library.uu.nl/handle/1874/703 ; URN:NBN:NL:UI:10-1874-703 ; 1874/703 ; URN:NBN:NL:UI:10-1874-703 ; https://dspace.library.uu.nl/handle/1874/703.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Walgreen, M. “Dynamics of sand ridges in coastal seas: the effect of storms, tides and grain sorting.” 2003. Web. 27 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Walgreen M. Dynamics of sand ridges in coastal seas: the effect of storms, tides and grain sorting. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. University Utrecht; 2003. [cited 2021 Jan 27]. Available from: https://dspace.library.uu.nl/handle/1874/703 ; URN:NBN:NL:UI:10-1874-703 ; 1874/703 ; URN:NBN:NL:UI:10-1874-703 ; https://dspace.library.uu.nl/handle/1874/703.

Council of Science Editors:

Walgreen M. Dynamics of sand ridges in coastal seas: the effect of storms, tides and grain sorting. [Doctoral Dissertation]. University Utrecht; 2003. Available from: https://dspace.library.uu.nl/handle/1874/703 ; URN:NBN:NL:UI:10-1874-703 ; 1874/703 ; URN:NBN:NL:UI:10-1874-703 ; https://dspace.library.uu.nl/handle/1874/703

Delft University of Technology

14. Bosboom, J. Quantifying the quality of coastal morphological predictions.

Degree: 2020, Delft University of Technology

URL: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:e4dc2dfc-6c9c-4849-8aa9-befa3001e2a3 ; urn:NBN:nl:ui:24-uuid:e4dc2dfc-6c9c-4849-8aa9-befa3001e2a3 ; e4dc2dfc-6c9c-4849-8aa9-befa3001e2a3 ; 10.4233/uuid:e4dc2dfc-6c9c-4849-8aa9-befa3001e2a3 ; urn:isbn:978-94-6384-091-0 ; urn:NBN:nl:ui:24-uuid:e4dc2dfc-6c9c-4849-8aa9-befa3001e2a3 ; http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:e4dc2dfc-6c9c-4849-8aa9-befa3001e2a3

► <p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none; text-autospace:none">This thesis investigates the behaviour of the often used point-wise skill score, the MSESSini a.k.a. BSS, and develops new error metrics that,… (more)

▼ <p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none; text-autospace:none">This thesis investigates the behaviour of the often used point-wise skill score, the MSESSini a.k.a. BSS, and develops new error metrics that, as opposed to point-wise metrics, take the spatial structure of morphological patterns into account. The MSESSini measures the relative accuracy of a morphological prediction over a prediction of zero morphological change, using the mean-squared error (MSE) as the accuracy measure. The main findings about the MSESSini are: 1) a generic ranking, based on values for MSESSini, has limited validity, since the zero change reference model fails to make model performance comparable across different prediction situations; 2) the combination of larger, persistent and smaller, intermittent scales of cumulative change may lead to an increase of skill with time, without the prediction on either of these scales becoming more skilful with time; 3) in the presence of inevitable location errors, the MSESSini favours predictions that underestimate the variance of cumulative bed changes and 4) existing methods to correct for measurement error are inconsistent in either their skill formulation or their suggested classification scheme. In order to overcome the inherent limitations of point-wise metrics, three novel diagnostic tools for the spatial validation of 2D morphological predictions are developed. First, a field deformation or warping method deforms the predictions towards the observations, minimizing the squared point-wise error. Error measures are formulated based on both the smooth displacement field between predictions and observations and the residual point-wise error field after the deformation. In contrast with the RMSE, the method captures the visual closeness of morphological patterns. Second, an optimal transport method defines the distance between predicted and observed morphological fields in terms of an optimal sediment transport field. The optimal corrective transport field moves the misplaced sediment from the predicted to the observed morphology at the lowest quadratic transportation cost. The root-mean-squared value of the optimal transport field, the RMSTE, is proposed as a new error metric. As opposed to the field deformation method, the optimal transport method is mass-conserving, parameter-free and symmetric. The RMSTE, unlike the RMSE, is able to discriminate between predictions that differ in the misplacement distance of predicted morphological features. It also avoids the consistent reward of the underestimation of morphological variability that the RMSE is prone to. Third, a scale-selective validation approach allows any metric to selectively address multiple spatial scales. It employs a smoothing filter in such a way that, in addition to the domain-averaged statistics, localized validation statistics and maps of prediction quality are obtained per scale (geographic extent or areal size of focus). The employed skill score weights how well the morphological structure and… Advisors/Committee Members: Reniers, A.J.H.M., Stive, M.J.F., Delft University of Technology.

Subjects/Keywords: (root)-mean-squared error; model accuracy; morphodynamic modelling; model validation; optimal transport; Monge–Kantorovich; root-mean-squared transport error; effective transport difference; image warping; image matching; scale-selective validation; optical flow; Brier skill score; model skill; zero change model; measurement error; location error; pattern skill

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Bosboom, J. (2020). Quantifying the quality of coastal morphological predictions. (Doctoral Dissertation). Delft University of Technology. Retrieved from http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:e4dc2dfc-6c9c-4849-8aa9-befa3001e2a3 ; urn:NBN:nl:ui:24-uuid:e4dc2dfc-6c9c-4849-8aa9-befa3001e2a3 ; e4dc2dfc-6c9c-4849-8aa9-befa3001e2a3 ; 10.4233/uuid:e4dc2dfc-6c9c-4849-8aa9-befa3001e2a3 ; urn:isbn:978-94-6384-091-0 ; urn:NBN:nl:ui:24-uuid:e4dc2dfc-6c9c-4849-8aa9-befa3001e2a3 ; http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:e4dc2dfc-6c9c-4849-8aa9-befa3001e2a3

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Bosboom, J. “Quantifying the quality of coastal morphological predictions.” 2020. Doctoral Dissertation, Delft University of Technology. Accessed January 27, 2021. http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:e4dc2dfc-6c9c-4849-8aa9-befa3001e2a3 ; urn:NBN:nl:ui:24-uuid:e4dc2dfc-6c9c-4849-8aa9-befa3001e2a3 ; e4dc2dfc-6c9c-4849-8aa9-befa3001e2a3 ; 10.4233/uuid:e4dc2dfc-6c9c-4849-8aa9-befa3001e2a3 ; urn:isbn:978-94-6384-091-0 ; urn:NBN:nl:ui:24-uuid:e4dc2dfc-6c9c-4849-8aa9-befa3001e2a3 ; http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:e4dc2dfc-6c9c-4849-8aa9-befa3001e2a3.

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Bosboom, J. “Quantifying the quality of coastal morphological predictions.” 2020. Web. 27 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Bosboom J. Quantifying the quality of coastal morphological predictions. [Internet] [Doctoral dissertation]. Delft University of Technology; 2020. [cited 2021 Jan 27]. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:e4dc2dfc-6c9c-4849-8aa9-befa3001e2a3 ; urn:NBN:nl:ui:24-uuid:e4dc2dfc-6c9c-4849-8aa9-befa3001e2a3 ; e4dc2dfc-6c9c-4849-8aa9-befa3001e2a3 ; 10.4233/uuid:e4dc2dfc-6c9c-4849-8aa9-befa3001e2a3 ; urn:isbn:978-94-6384-091-0 ; urn:NBN:nl:ui:24-uuid:e4dc2dfc-6c9c-4849-8aa9-befa3001e2a3 ; http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:e4dc2dfc-6c9c-4849-8aa9-befa3001e2a3.

Council of Science Editors:

Bosboom J. Quantifying the quality of coastal morphological predictions. [Doctoral Dissertation]. Delft University of Technology; 2020. Available from: http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:e4dc2dfc-6c9c-4849-8aa9-befa3001e2a3 ; urn:NBN:nl:ui:24-uuid:e4dc2dfc-6c9c-4849-8aa9-befa3001e2a3 ; e4dc2dfc-6c9c-4849-8aa9-befa3001e2a3 ; 10.4233/uuid:e4dc2dfc-6c9c-4849-8aa9-befa3001e2a3 ; urn:isbn:978-94-6384-091-0 ; urn:NBN:nl:ui:24-uuid:e4dc2dfc-6c9c-4849-8aa9-befa3001e2a3 ; http://resolver.tudelft.nl/uuid:e4dc2dfc-6c9c-4849-8aa9-befa3001e2a3

Université de Montréal

15. Verhaar, Patrick M. Numerical modelling of the impact of climate change on the morphology of Saint-Lawrence tributaries.

Degree: 2010, Université de Montréal

URL: http://hdl.handle.net/1866/3737

Subjects/Keywords: Modèle morphodynamique; Morphodynamic model; Fleuve Saint-Laurent; Saint-Lawrence River; Changements climatiques; Climate change; Transport de sédiments en charge de fond; Bed-material transport; Niveau de base; Base level; Risque d'inondation; Flood risk; Débit efficace; Effective discharge; Période de récurrence; Recurrence interval; Débit demi-charge; Half-load discharge; Earth Sciences - Physical Geography / Sciences de la Terre - Géographie physique (UMI : 0368)

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APA · Chicago · MLA · Vancouver · CSE | Export to Zotero / EndNote / Reference Manager

APA (6^th Edition):

Verhaar, P. M. (2010). Numerical modelling of the impact of climate change on the morphology of Saint-Lawrence tributaries. (Thesis). Université de Montréal. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/1866/3737

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Chicago Manual of Style (16^th Edition):

Verhaar, Patrick M. “Numerical modelling of the impact of climate change on the morphology of Saint-Lawrence tributaries.” 2010. Thesis, Université de Montréal. Accessed January 27, 2021. http://hdl.handle.net/1866/3737.

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

MLA Handbook (7^th Edition):

Verhaar, Patrick M. “Numerical modelling of the impact of climate change on the morphology of Saint-Lawrence tributaries.” 2010. Web. 27 Jan 2021.

Vancouver:

Verhaar PM. Numerical modelling of the impact of climate change on the morphology of Saint-Lawrence tributaries. [Internet] [Thesis]. Université de Montréal; 2010. [cited 2021 Jan 27]. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1866/3737.

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

Council of Science Editors:

Verhaar PM. Numerical modelling of the impact of climate change on the morphology of Saint-Lawrence tributaries. [Thesis]. Université de Montréal; 2010. Available from: http://hdl.handle.net/1866/3737

Note: this citation may be lacking information needed for this citation format:
Not specified: Masters Thesis or Doctoral Dissertation

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